Going to melt down some plastic soon, asking for some advice.
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Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, Going to melt down some plastic soon, asking for some advice. in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; Re: Suspension Updating. Obvious Symptoms: the compressor turns on almost every time, and runs from 3 to 6 mins. Ride ...
  1. #1
    JackFunTeach is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Going to melt down some plastic soon, asking for some advice.

    Re: Suspension Updating.
    Obvious Symptoms: the compressor turns on almost every time, and runs from 3 to 6 mins.
    Ride Impressions: Too Floaty. And bump will disturb the rest of the car's float.

    I have found that my front is firm. I am going to leave the front alone for now. And The rear is mushy as can be.

    I just stayed up till late last night and found the following:

    Monroe Air Shocks (x 2 Rears), the plastic lines going to each wheel.
    and Compressor. Best cost from shopping 9 hours online is 435 total out of pocket. And a local mechanic is going to do it for 100 a wheel, plus another 1.5 hours for everything else,i.e., compressor.

    I am going to reuse the sensor, unless I find them cheap. Is there anything else I'm missing???

    Thanks for reading my post, and Any and All insights you can add.

    Jackster

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    carnut is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: Going to melt down some plastic soon, asking for some advice.

    Why a compressor, it works you say. You've got a leak somewhere. Shocks are a good idea simply based on age. Lines are a good idea because that's probably the leak, but the compressor runs, so why replace it?

  4. #3
    basscatt's Avatar
    basscatt is online now Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: Going to melt down some plastic soon, asking for some advice.

    Monroe Air Shocks (x 2 Rears),
    the plastic lines going to each wheel.
    and Compressor.

    Best cost from shopping 9 hours online is 435 total out of pocket

    so - you are converting the original active rear shocks to passive rear shocks?

    you should list the parts - prices - and supplier -
    -------------------
    I might be confused - but -
    I thought all 2002 Eldo Collector Edition were all ETC models -

    if this is correct - I believe you have the electronic F45 suspension -

    and if that is true -
    the direct replacement shocks from Monroe would be the 40018 -
    the best price I found was -
    $727 - for two - with shipping - from rockauto.com -

    there are a pair on ebay for $764.10 -
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Monroe-40018...5f1a0c&vxp=mtr

    and amazon has them for $792.12 for the pair -
    http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-40018-S...ype=automotive
    ------------------

    if you need the air line kit - Monroe AK29 is less than $15 -
    -----------------

    passive rear shocks would be the Monroe 40046 -
    the best price I found was $107.51 each - with free shipping = $215.02
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

    the AK29 is $12.95 - also from amazon -

    ----------------
    and if you are converting to passive -
    you will need a couple 4.7K Ohm 1/2W resistors -
    RadioShack #271-1124 - about $1.50 for a 5-pack -


    the compressor is GM 12487573 -
    I found a brand new one on ebay for $182.53 - with free shipping -
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARNOTT-P-258...0ba130&vxp=mtr

    ---------------
    a local mechanic is going to do it for 100 a wheel,
    plus another 1.5 hours for everything else,i.e., compressor.

    that isn't exactly a bargain - but not too bad either -

    simply finding a shop to install your-supplied parts is tough -

  5. #4
    MoistCabbage's Avatar
    MoistCabbage is offline Cadillac Owners 10000+ Posts
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    $100 PER WHEEL TO INSTALL SHOCKS?!?! It's only 15-20 minutes each!

  6. #5
    JackFunTeach is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Going to melt down some plastic soon, asking for some advice.

    Wait a minute. I believe that I will have a shock that has a bladder integral with the shock, meaning it's a one-piece system: bladder and shock are together, no?

    And getting the old bladder and shock out...is about 20 to 30 mins, and getting the new bladder and shock in, is another 20 to 30 mins, which equals about 100 bucks at 50 an hour, no?

    ----------

    Yes, Bass Cat. I could stay with the "electronic" shock that is expensive with it's electronically controlled variable dampening rate. Or, go with the "with out" electronic shock that does not variable rate dampening. The shock I want to buy is Monroe's one rate dampening system. I think I will end up keeping the OEM ELC, but lose the multi dampening system. So, I will have a compressor, then air lines going to each wheel, then, bladder which is connected to shock (it's a one piece system, no?).

    Then, I will keep the existing springs. I think there is surface rust, but I am not made of money. Like you said, it will be a significant upgrade, right?

    The part numbers you supplied are EXTREMELY HELPFUL. I want to utilize my Prime Membership with Amazon, too. So, anyways, that's where I get my numbers:
    Top of the line Monroe shocks that I cost about $100 bucks.

    ELC Lines going to each shock, that cost about 15 a piece, needing two...one for each wheel.

    Monroe makes a compressor for about 240.

    Electronics to keep warning lights off the dash, that cost on a few bucks.

    Please confirm that I'm thinking accurately.

    Jack

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    Re: Going to melt down some plastic soon, asking for some advice.

    Please confirm that I'm thinking accurately.
    I too would go with the passive rear shocks -
    MOST drivers wouldn't notice the difference -
    but your WALLET sure will -

    the Monroe 40046 would be the correct passive shock -

    I believe that I will have a shock that has a bladder integral with the shock,
    meaning it's a one-piece system: bladder and shock are together, no

    YES - this is what it looks like -

    the air bladder is built in - in the upper part of the shock - under the steel top "hood" -

    getting the old bladder and shock out...is about 20 to 30 mins,
    and getting the new bladder and shock in, is another 20 to 30 mins,
    which equals about 100 bucks at 50 an hour, no

    NO -
    forget about the bladder part - it is part of the shock -
    you can't get just the bladder part out by itself - even if you wanted to -

    there is one nut and bolt on the bottom -
    and one nut on the top - that's all there is -

    well - plus the air line - and electrical plug -

    the only way it could possibly take one hour to change those two shocks -
    is with a 20 minute coffee break - between them -

    ELC Lines going to each shock, that cost about 15 a piece,
    needing two...one for each wheel.

    no - one Monroe AK29 kit will take care of both shocks - $12.95 -

    Monroe makes a compressor for about 240.
    Monroe has an aftermarket compressor kit -
    but not an OEM replacement unit -

    if you want to maintain the factory functioning ELC system -
    you should get the brand new OEM compressor I listed -

    Electronics to keep warning lights off the dash, that cost on a few bucks.
    correct - the resistors I listed -

  8. #7
    MoistCabbage's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by basscatt
    the only way it could possibly take one hour to change those two shocks -
    is with a 20 minute coffee break - between them -
    I think I could change both shocks in less than an hour, with a full cup of coffe in one hand the whole time, without spilling any.

    The mechanic is up charging a LOT, because he can't make a profit on the parts.

    Not sure where you priced the compressor, but Arnott sells brand new, OEM units, for $215.
    basscatt likes this.

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    JackFunTeach is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Going to melt down some plastic soon, asking for some advice.

    Huge, huge help. I will order tomorrow. There must be something that turns the compressor on and off. The sensor. Is that up front up top of the front shock assembly? I am thinking for this job, I do not need to replace it?? Please set me straight on the sensor.
    The sensor must see that the preload needs to turn "on" compressor, and hence sends electricity to the compressor. How does it let air out of this new shock unit?

    jack

  10. #9
    MoistCabbage's Avatar
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    The height sensors are bolted to the body in each wheel well, and connected to the lower control arms by small connecting rods. A faulty one (or one with a disconnected/missing connecting rod) will set a code.

    Only one of the rear ones control the ELC compressor.

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    JackFunTeach is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Going to melt down some plastic soon, asking for some advice.

    MoistCabbage and BassCat, I can not thank you enough. I now have confidence doing up what would have most certainly been a mistake in my blind confidence. I was soooo sure that Strut Masters was the way to go. And I was convinced that there was No Wayyy I would be able to afford keeping the ELC working. Thanks Again.

    In my old car and current motorcycle forums, I am not a newbie like I am here. And right about here in my older forums, I would be asking, Why doesn't this guy take our advice and completely read the manuals and above technical links. So, I'm going full circle here. I have ordered a Shop Manual and I have started to read through the links. So, I will do that.

    I dropping a grand or more here when I finally get to the fronts, that is, if I do in fact do that. It is tight, but I want to do the rears, then, drive it, then, access how much bang for the buck I would gain by doing all four.

    My front feels tight, tight. Not even a quarter inch of play in the wheel. Vehicle responds like a rack and pinion system. So, I am going to just see how it goes for the now. Plus my front brake lines are no walk in the park. Out of the master cylinder, I "think" I have 4 to 6 lines skaked to an ABS and front wheels. There is a lot of rust there. So, my joy will not end soon.....but I feel better prepared to do it right. My goal, to keep this daily driver running at best as possible.

    Thank You, again.

    Jackster

  12. #11
    MoistCabbage's Avatar
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    You're very welcome.

    Now why are the fronts going to cost you a grand?!

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    JackFunTeach is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Going to melt down some plastic soon, asking for some advice.

    Oh, and Submariner, your clear explanations have also done me a great service. I took your advice, and I called Chris at Rippy. As it turns out, he happens to own the exact ELC system that I have. He has a very deep and specific knowledge. Of course, I can not keep up an intelligent conversation because I do not know what I"m talking about. I have to find a link that allows me to look up parts from clear diagrams, and say, "that's it." Then, get the corresponding part number. Now, it's like me calling a blue jacket trader on the NYSE, and start asking dumb questions, and not have the stock symbol, eg., ATT and HWP, and describe stuff, while he is extremely patient, I can tell it's a struggle for both Chris and me, similar to Forest Gump running around with him. Thanks so much.

    And by the way, I "dropped the hammer." Exactly as prescribed. Man on man, I was pinned to the seat. This feels like a lot more torque than my last car, BMW M5. Cadilac owners are bad arse!

    Well onward,
    Jack

    Jack

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    MoistCabbage's Avatar
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    www.gmpartsgiant.com has good diagrams with part numbers. Nalley GMCs site is pretty good as well.

  15. #14
    JackFunTeach is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Going to melt down some plastic soon, asking for some advice.

    Oh,lol. I meant to say what I was thinking: the total of back with the front will sum up to a grand, especially knowing me. I will pull and shake every front end control arm. And if anything even seems to need r/r I will do it. I like tight, tight.

    Here's my reality: suspension will sum up to a grand. Paint shop is fixing the cracked plastic that the PO cracked going to far into a parking barrier. Then the dent doctor for the mini mini dents. Then, exhaust, I have wild ambitions for getting rid of the Y and making it a real dual exhaust. Hell, I might even do headers. Then, drop the transmission pan, and do that up. Then, I'm going to do Evans Waterless Coolant, see link, http://www.evanscooling.com/. After this complete update, I will bring this gem to a car show and win the trophy! loll, j/king

    jack

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    MoistCabbage's Avatar
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    A true dual system might be possible with some ovalized or rectangular pipe. Headers would be tricky and tight. There's a paragraph or two about it in the Technical Archives.

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