Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, TCC Solenoid and That Nasty Hair Clip!!!! in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; Had the P1860 code, did the diagnostic ensuring solenoid failure. Purchased parts, viewed several You Tubes on the repair. Got ...
Had the P1860 code, did the diagnostic ensuring solenoid failure. Purchased parts, viewed several You Tubes on the repair. Got everything dissasembled, even removed hairpin with out issue. New solenoid slide right in, figured I'd have the car on ground in a hour... that nasty little hairpin sez I have another think a comin'!!!
Anyone have any luck with getting that hairpin to cooperate, maybe a special tool?
Gonna try in morning, getting out the torch, turn a long nose set of minature pliers from harbor freight into a 90 degree special (they cost a $1.00.)
I do have several wraps of floral wire with a 2ft lead to ensure if clip drops it's retrievable.
I don't think it possible to get a finger in there, tried the specially bent telescopic magnetic puck-up tool, not enough magnetism!
I tried the bent pliers and it did not work. I got some wire and bent it into a holder, and to hold the position of the clip just right. Then I just used a small pry bar to push it into place. I think I bent the clip slightly open to allow it to go over the space in the solenoid easier. The clip can be pretty hard to get open and over the solenoid out of the car let alone in that tight confinement. The trick is to get the correct size wire to hold it in the correct position and still be flexible. I am not sure but it might have been #14 house wire stripped of the insulation? Sweat and Patients is all I can say. I think it took me hours to get it in
Move the master break housing, your head needs to go there to see.
Thw solder thing ws the way too go! Had bent a chunk of .080" music wire into a tool that would get the clip in there, used isocyanoacylate adhesive to hold to wire to clip. Idea was to wiggle wire and free clip from the bond once installed. Problem was to get a blob big enough to hold, then release, would not work! Plan "B" soldered clip to the wire, expecting after a trial test for same result, same problem. The 'ol light bulb went off! - once clip was in place, hold end of wire tool with miniature vise grips while stroking the wire with my 250 watt soldering pencil. Soon as heat made it's way to solder, wire slide out. Tugged to remove the piece of floral "safety" wire still around clip, the nasty little clip was in place. If I had went this route first, clip could have been in place in less than an hour. Oh, I also fashioned a mirror out of a small chunk of acrylic mirror stock (handy stuff to keep around) that held the case wide open and allowed to see what you were doing. I found that covering your overhead area with a sheet and a Harbor Freight 9-LED flashlight, worked better than the shop lights for illuminating the work spot. Practice looking throught the mirror before getting in there was helpful too!
Addendum: Coolant pipe leakage. Problem comes from I think bending the coolant pipe's bracket that mounts pipe to the rear-most stud of trans cover/case. Puts an angle on the fitting that lets coolant leak.. be sure to bend bracket back with pliers before tightening stud nut, otherwise bracket will push on the tube/fitting.
I replaced just in case, tried the Dorman 800-401 offering. I have had issues with the last four Dorman parts I've used in the last year (cheap off-shore manufacturing!) Part leaked worse than the 12 year old OEM part! Do yourself a favor, use the GM part number 25689629, it's about $20.00! Oh yeah, you'll need to remove the master cylinder mount nuts (not lines,) set cylinder towards the fender, then a standard depth 28mm socket to fetch him outta there!