IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator
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Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; My A/C just blows ambient air lately. I checked pressures and put a UV dye in to check for leaks. ...
  1. #1
    EcSTSatic's Avatar
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    IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator

    My A/C just blows ambient air lately. I checked pressures and put a UV dye in to check for leaks. The high side line is hot and the low side line is cold like it should be. The system seems to be okay but i get this code. A search didn't tell me whether this would fix my problem or not though it may explain why for a long time when the Climate control is off, i can still feel warm air coming through the vents.
    I think I need to replace the actuator to clear the code, but I'm not sure it could be causing my A/C not to blow cold. Any thoughts?

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    SwampeastMike is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator

    The "air inlet door" is up behind the glove box. It's the dome-shaped thing on top of the blower housing. The actuator pivots half of the dome back into the other half to allow cabin air to enter the fan (the full recirculate position). Unless you've manually chosen the recirculate mode, it's usually fully closed and using only fresh air. So no, it will NOT cause the A/C to constantly blow ambient air. I know this for a fact as mine was broken (always in the closed, full fresh air position) for more than a year before I fixed it and the A/C worked fine except during extremely hot, humid weather when the system automatically adds some recirculation. The actuator has three retaining screws only one of which is reasonable accessible. The one in the rear is a TERRIBLE pain to remove/install!!!!!! If you can move the door by hand, then you probably have the same problem I did--the actuator is fine, but the plastic shaft leaving from the door to the motor has broken. A year ago the door was available and cheap (less than $10 I think) but you have to remove the entire dash and dash carrier to replace it! This means removing the seats, the steering column and the center console before you begin with the dash and carrier... Fortunately the new door had just enough flexibility to allow me to compress it enough to "pop in" the pivot and drive shafts. The original broke into pieces when I compressed it to remove. The actual door replacement is not covered in the FSM and for a while I was afraid I would have to spend yet more hours to remove the entire HVAC unit... Even with the dash and carrier removed, the rear retaining screw on the actuator is still EXTREMELY difficult to access!

    B1343 aside, there is some other problem with the system. With the hot side of the system hot and the cold side code, heat is obviously being moved so it would seem that the compressor, condenser and evaporator are all doing their jobs. It would therefore seem that you have an air mix problem such that the incoming air is going through both the evaporator and heater core to emerge near ambient temperature. With at least somewhat separate mixing passages and independent actuators for driver and passenger air mix I don't think it likely that a mechanical or electrical problem that does not set any DTC would occur in both the driver and passenger systems.

    Check the 10A fuse labeled "HVAC" in the rear fuse block.

    Try activating the dual feature and setting the passenger side much cooler than the driver. I doubt you'll find any difference, but maybe... Also try setting the driver control to the minimum temperature which at least simulates a manual sustem at full cooling. Try driver temperature as high as possible with passenger temperature as low as possible and vice versa. Also driver and passenger temperatures one step away from opposite maximums (still automatic control). Let the system run for a couple minutes at each "wild" setting. If any of these settings results in A/C on either or both sides, report back what did it. When done, check again for DTCs.

    If you remove the trim panel at the top of the driver footwell you access the driver air mix actuator to visually verify movement (or lack of movement). You can also remove the actuator and manually move the shaft it connects to--if extremely free moving I'd suspect something has come loose or broken. (There are three actuators in that general region but only the driver mix actuator will be fully accessible by merely removing the footwell trim. ) To access the passenger air mix actuator you have to remove the glove box. When removing the glove box be certain to pop out and disconnect the light BEFORE removing the box--you'll break something if you don't!

    If nothing results in A/C from anywhere and no additional DTCs appear, I'd suggest taking it to a dealer or good shop. Armed with a Tech-II and it's ability to directly access sensors and manually operate actuators, a decent technician should be able to pin down the problem fairly quickly.
    ELDORADO2K likes this.

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    EcSTSatic's Avatar
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    Re: IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator

    Wow! Thanks for all of the advice Mike.I will run through your suggestions. D'oh, watch it be a fuse!

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    EcSTSatic's Avatar
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    Re: IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator

    Fuses are okay. I wished it would be that simple. I pulled the Air Inlet Valve actuator out. What a PITA job that is!! It is dead, the air inlet was half open. Naturally, opening or closing the inlet manually had no effect on my problem. I'll replace it when I find a good price. The Dorman part at Autozone looks really cheap compared to the OEM. The passenger side is always slightly cooler than the drivers side. I ran the dual mode test and the passenger side center outlet remained cooler than the drivers. I have no heat at all though ! I was able to feel both mix and the mode actuators for some movement. The direction/diverter changes fine so I think the mode actuator is okay. Maybe the mix actuators aren't moving enough? I took the pass. side mix actuator off and manually turned the door. I could get hot and cold out of the vent. Could the IPM be bad? Wouldn't it throw another code? The only code is still the B1343.

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    Re: IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator

    Well, if anyone is interested, I ordered a new ACDelco air inlet actuator from Rockauto. It was $30 less than the Dorman part at Autozone. I am going to take the car to an A/C shop this week to put the Tech II or equivalent scan tool on it to diagnose the problem. They can test each of the actuators, IPM etc. I will offer up front to pay for the diagnostics labor but parts prices vary a LOT and you know what labor costs. If I know what is wrong, I can fix it. I don't want to throw parts at it. Stay tuned.

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    SwampeastMike is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator

    Told you that air inlet actuator was a bear to remove When replacing, I used thumb screws instead of the originals.

    I think you did the right thing to take it to a shop as it does sound like the problem is in a control or sensor.

  8. #7
    EcSTSatic's Avatar
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    Re: IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator

    I got the results from the shop on my A/C problem today. They said it was very low on freon, The system was holding a vacuum. They charged it up and tested for leaks with a sniffer. I already looked with the dye. They found no leaks so not sure how it got so low or why my gauges said the pressures were in range. But it's cooling for now. I'll see if it holds.
    For you procrastinators with a B1343 error: They said there was a 20 degree cooling change with the inlet open or closed. Open draws inside cabin air, closed draws outside air. Mine was stuck halfway. If you want to be able to control this you'll need to fix your problem.

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    Re: IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator

    Quote Originally Posted by EcSTSatic View Post
    I got the results from the shop on my A/C problem today. They said it was very low on freon, The system was holding a vacuum. They charged it up and tested for leaks with a sniffer. I already looked with the dye. They found no leaks so not sure how it got so low or why my gauges said the pressures were in range. But it's cooling for now. I'll see if it holds.
    For you procrastinators with a B1343 error: They said there was a 20 degree cooling change with the inlet open or closed. Open draws inside cabin air, closed draws outside air. Mine was stuck halfway. If you want to be able to control this you'll need to fix your problem.
    My old STS did this around this time 4 years ago and it turned out that when my center motor mount busted it knocked the engine up against the A/C line that runs along the front of the engine and it ended up leaking. Cost me $500 to repair and recharge the A/C back then. Hope that's not your problem. Funny thing is my Deville also was low on freon so I had it recharged last week and it still works great so maybe yours is a fluke like mine was? Hope so!

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    Re: IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator

    I hope it was a fluke too.
    I picked the car up yesterday. I let them know that I was disappointed that they did not find the cause of the loss of Freon It lost the 2 cans I just put in over the last 2-3 weeks. They added 2 more back in. I told them I could add more Freon for less money than they did, I need to know that the problem is fixed. This is not the usual place I take my car to - my mistake. It has a 90 warranty, whatever that is good for. I expect I'll be back when this Freon leaks out too.
    I'm still waiting for my actuator from rockauto.

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    Re: IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator

    "90 Warranty" - The Golden 90 Warranty - 90 seconds or 90 feet, whichever occurs first.

    ..................

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    Re: IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator

    Update: I installed the new air inlet actuator that was throwing the B1343 code. The door opens and closes now when I select recirculate mode. Just FYI, there's about a 20 degree difference at the vents between an open or closed inlet door. If you have this code and ignoring it, hope that your door is stuck open and not closed for max output.

    I'm still waiting to see if my cooling drops. Even though the shop said they didn't detect a leak, they couldn't explain where the 2 cans I put in went. I'm going to keep running my sniffer and UV detector and see if anything shows up.

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    Re: IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator

    In many cars the MAX COOL setting is our RECIRC setting .......... thus the temperature difference when cooling recirc cabin air or 95 degree humid outside air.

    EDIT at 3:02: but in our cars the RECIRC door may not be fully in "recirc" - the system itself fools with the amount of blend air based on heating/cooling mode and temp settings.

  14. #13
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    Re: IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator

    Quote Originally Posted by Submariner409 View Post
    In many cars the MAX COOL setting is our RECIRC setting .......... thus the temperature difference when cooling recirc cabin air or 95 degree humid outside air.
    Exactly. I was explaining this to my wife last night. It's real apparent in my Suburban. When you press MAX, a little recirculating icon appears.

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    Re: IPM B1343 Air Inlet Actuator

    Update in case anyone cares - UV dye does work, but you have to look for it! After I paid the shop $180 for practically nothing (see below) , my A/C is blowing ambient air again. It didn't take long to leak out ...again! Before I take it back under the '90 day warranty', I wanted to check once more myself for the problem. I took my UV light and ran along the upper lines and connections and saw nothing, so I decided to drop the splash shield and look underneath. It didn't take a rocket scientist to find the problem. There was a pool of compressor oil and dye on the shield. I crawled underneath and looked up at the compressor. The line from the compressor that runs up between the cooling fans was dripping dye on me! I am going to replace the line and the dryer and then take the car back to the shop to let them make good on the job. I expect them to draw it down and replace the oil and Freon at no cost to me. Funny thing, I just got a card from the owner of the shop. It wasn't a survey, but a request to send him more business. We'll see how they honor this warranty first.

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    Quote Originally Posted by EcSTSatic View Post
    Update in case anyone cares - UV dye does work, but you have to look for it! After I paid the shop $180 for practically nothing (see below) , my A/C is blowing ambient air again. It didn't take long to leak out ...again! Before I take it back under the '90 day warranty', I wanted to check once more myself for the problem. I took my UV light and ran along the upper lines and connections and saw nothing, so I decided to drop the splash shield and look underneath. It didn't take a rocket scientist to find the problem. There was a pool of compressor oil and dye on the shield. I crawled underneath and looked up at the compressor. The line from the compressor that runs up between the cooling fans was dripping dye on me! I am going to replace the line and the dryer and then take the car back to the shop to let them make good on the job. I expect them to draw it down and replace the oil and Freon at no cost to me. Funny thing, I just got a card from the owner of the shop. It wasn't a survey, but a request to send him more business. We'll see how they honor this warranty first.
    Same line that went bad on my STS twice! First time I spent $500 to have it replaced and the a/c recharged. Second time I had it replaced under warranty.

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