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1997 ETC - New codes to report

2K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  stoveguyy 
#1 ·
P0404 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Range/Performance
P0603 - Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory Error

Both were history...............nothing current.

EGR circuit? Is that an electrical bugaboo or is my EGR malfunctioning?
Keep Alive Memory? Anybody know what that does.

Any help is appreciated as always.
 
#5 ·
Go to diagnose mode:
1. You have the first 3 seconds bulb test (all dash lighst and display elements are ON)
2. You have the code list (it lists the current and history codes by module)
3. You have the modules menu (PCM?>IPC?>....)
Remember the following:
FAN SPEED UP=YES
FAN SPEED DOWN = NO
A/C OFF = CANCEL (or UP one level)

To skip the bulb test or code enumeration or one module menu, just press NO.
So for example you get into diagnose mode and you are prompted bulb test. You can wait the 3 seconds or press NO to go to the next menu (list of codes) or CANCEL to exit up one level (basically out of the bulb diagnose mode).
Now you are in code list, you can wait or press NO to go to the first menu (PCM?), or press CANCEL to go back to the bulb test.
Now let's assume you are in the module menu (for example first one PCM?).
You have the choice to go to this module menu (press YES) or go to the next menu (press NO), or go back to the code list (press CANCEL).
Say you are now in the PCM menu. You are prompted with the submenus PCM CODES, CLEAR CODES...
You have the option to select the submenu (press YES) or skip to the next submenu (press NO) or EXIT out of the PCM menu and go back to the module list (press CANCEL).
If you are lost just press CANCEL repeatedly until you are out of the diagnose mode, or simply turn the ignition off.
 
#7 ·
OK, I'm preparing to clean my EGR. Went and bought the gasket, just in case.........all of $2.99.
Here's my question.
I've checked other posts regarding cleaning the EGR, and I'm confused as to whether or not I'm going to have to remove my fuel rail.
'97 ETC, has the stainless steel rail, but looking at it, it sure looks like it will come right out.
There's a cable, looks like a tranny cable, zip-tied to that black bracket just in front of the EGR that looks like it might be an issue, and then there are a couple of brackets that appear to hook to the fuel line, but they look like they'll come right out if you loosen the forward EGR screw.
It looks like it will come right out if you can deal with the brackets holding the fuel line. I think I can work around the cable.
Anybody know for sure on a '97 ETC? I don't want to have to mess with the fuel rail and injectors if possible.
 
#8 ·
The cable on the top bracket is gas pedal not transmission. Also is not supposed to be zip-tied, suppose to be held in a plastic clip that locks into the round hole on top of the black bracket. None of these cables have anything to do with the EGR and are not required to be removed.
You need to remove the engine beauty cover (the 4 black plastic nuts - actually the core is metal).
Now you can see the fuel line and be sure if is steel or nylon. All '97 cars came from factory with the nylon line, if it has the steel line (and it should) it means it was replaced for the recall.
Now regardless what line you have it doesn't need to come out fully, is enough just to take out the right (rear) bank, it has some flex in it (even the steel line) just enough to be lifted off the injectors 7 (fully), 5 (almost fully), 3 (half way) and 1 (a bit). That is enough to clear the bolt holding the EGR.
But personally I would rather remove the whole line (is just a matter of 2 more studs to remove vs. removing just the right (rear) section of it where you only need to remove the 2 studs on that bank only. When I mention to remove studs, I am referring to the 4 studs holding the fuel line on top of the injectors, and these are the 4 studs holding the engine beauty line too. Note this arrangement if for the steel line, the plastic line it just clips into the intake manifold near each injector. In that case it has enough flex in it to just to bend it without removing it at all (or maybe you remove it from injector 7 to reduce the risk or kink-ing it).
That being said, it takes less time to remove the EGR valve than me typing this, so much talk about such a small thing.


P.S. I hope you read in the other posts the part where you release the fuel pressure before lifting it off the injectors (you need a rag around the fuel line service valve and gently press on the center of the valve to release the pressure, CAUTION! will spray hard, make sure the rag will catch the spray).
 
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