Intake Valve Problem! - Page 3
Cadillac
 

Cadillac Forums | Help Us Help You | Advertise | Cadillac Parts | Cadillac News | Cadillac Classifieds / (Old System)

Cadillac Technical Archive | Cadillac Dealers | Cadillac Reviews | Cadillac Dealer Reviews | Cadillac Vendors

CadillacForums.com is the premier Cadillac Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Closed Thread
Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 75
Like Tree14Likes
Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, Intake Valve Problem! in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; N*Caddy, nice to hear from you again. It's been years. RippyPartsDept, nice to hear from you. Remember, "Never wrestle with ...
  1. #31
    Jims_97_ETC's Avatar
    Jims_97_ETC is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): 2011 CTS-V
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Philly Area
    Posts
    38
    Thread Starter

    Re: Intake Valve Problem!

    N*Caddy, nice to hear from you again. It's been years.

    RippyPartsDept, nice to hear from you. Remember, "Never wrestle with a pig. You both get dirty and the pig likes it." (Anon.)

    Submariner409, thank you for the links. I browsed about ten of them and all are about engines that are 10 years old or more and either have very high mileage or have sat a lot. I can't imagine wearing through the lifter buckets unless the car is very poorly maintained - read, a no-oil condition on the lifters and driving for a very long time with dry clacking lifters, or no oil changes long after the oil has zero ZDDP left. That certainly hasn't been the problem with my engine. It's six years old, but has only 45,000 miles on it, has 170+ psi on every other cylinder, and has very truly excellent performance, even with the low compression on number 8; it will cheerfully give you the FWD nose-wag at full throttle in low gear on a less-than-perfect surface, even with the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires. I haven't added oil or coolant to it since I put in the Jasper. The oil pan is dry as a bone.

    When I called Jasper they assumed that since I drove only 8,000 miles a year that I was a blue-hair featherfoot that let the car sit a lot and didn't maintain it, a common demographic I suppose; their venture was that a leaking injector had, over a long period, washed down the rings on one cylinder to the point that the honing pattern was worn slick and the rings were leaking, but wet/dry and leakdown tests showed the problem to be an intake valve, the car is driven daily and meticulously maintained, etc.

    I recently ran across a TSB dated 2011 (#PIP3146D: Rough Idle Crank No Start Extended Crank Or Misfire When Cold Due To Sticking Valves Or Excessive Carbon On Top Of The Valves - (May 11, 2011) ) about contaminated gas causing an identical problem with the HV6 (the 3.6 lliter DI V6), and this engine has a similar induction and valve train to my engine. The Sunoco station where I normally get my 93 Octane lately has been out of premium gas intermittently since Sandy (when I did put in 1/2 tank of regular from them out of desperation not to go into the storm without a full tank). The last week or so they haven't had gas at all. They may have a contamination problem. This could be as simple as a sticking valve.
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  2. #32
    Ranger's Avatar
    Ranger is online now Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Woodstock Ill.
    Age
    66
    Posts
    74,559

    Re: Intake Valve Problem!

    Quote Originally Posted by Jims_97_ETC View Post
    My previous car had a Quad 4 HO. That engine had noticeably more snap and noticeably more punch at redline with 5W-30 Mobil 1 than it did with 10W-30 Mobil1 or dino oil 5W-30. My 1997 ETC allowed 5W-30 Mobil 1 from Day 1 as a GM suggestion for better fuel economy and I could feel the difference in performance even with the 4.6. Once they put dino oil in my car at the dealer by accident, and I could tell instantly when I started it.
    You can't possibly believe that.

    ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by basscatt View Post
    but PLEASE stop with the BUTT DYNO comparisons
    between 5w30 and 10w30 synthetics -
    it makes you sound silly -
    and you loose ALL credibility -
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  3. #33
    RippyPartsDept's Avatar
    RippyPartsDept is offline Hi, I'm Chris - Please Read My Signature
    Automobile(s): 1999 DeVille "Bianca" (white/blue, VIN-Y, 160k)
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Wilmington, NC
    Age
    34
    Posts
    14,004
    Hey Jim, sometimes I want to get muddy too :-)
    Tankboy40 and Tankboy40 like this.
    Chris Heath (RippyPartsDept) is an ASE Certified GM Parts Consultant at Rippy Automotive
    Rippy is a Cadillac, Hummer, Saturn & Saab dealership & Official Saab Service Center
    ~~ Family owned and operated in Wilmington, NC since 1946 ~~
    We offer all forum members discounts on parts and freight
    phone: 800-RIPPY-22
    <-- insert standard boilerplate about posts not necessarily representing my employer, etc -->
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  4. #34
    rodnok01's Avatar
    rodnok01 is online now Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
    Automobile(s): 98 DeVille, 97 DeVille d'Elegance
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    4,110

    Re: Intake Valve Problem!

    Alot of mis information floating around.
    Multi viscosity oil works as two different weights depending on operating temperature.
    A 5w30 and a 10w30 are exactly the same weight oil at 210F, 30 weight(new oil lets not dabble into how oil wears for now)
    The reason for a lower first number is what a particular engine requires at start up and what temperature range you live in. Running a 5w30 in warm weather may result in a slight increase in oil consumption but in reality there is little down side to it. Once an engine is warm it will not matter.
    GM may have switched their oil specs for 2000 due to improved oil additives which allow a great range in weights or they may have changed the math used to figure Oil life due to newer oils.
    Let me explain: The additives in oil break down the higher weight over time, which is why they don't recommend 10w40 oils for most vehicles as more additives are needed for larger range in weights. When the additives break down the weight of your oil comes down, ie you start with 10w40 it can turn into 10w20 if worn enough, however a 10w30 not having as much in additives will end up a 10w25 for example. They have improved oil greatly in the last 10-15 years in regards to additives. Dino is still dino just different additives.
    Being in the oil change business for 10 years I posed a lot of these questions to oil companies, engine manufacturers and vehicle manufacturers. I got to know a oil research old timer that put it in terms you could actually understand, cut thru the BS as it were.
    It is very difficult to compare anything about full synthetic and dino oils head to head as they operate so differently at a molecular level. I think they used the same weight scale just to get people to buy their product as it really should be classified differently weight wise. Anywho...
    Not trying to stir the pot, in reality the most important thing is regular maintenance.

    Whatever type and weight of oil you should use it whatever makes you happy
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  5. #35
    Jims_97_ETC's Avatar
    Jims_97_ETC is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): 2011 CTS-V
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Philly Area
    Posts
    38
    Thread Starter

    Re: Intake Valve Problem!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger View Post
    You can't possibly believe that.

    ----------


    If you had ever driven one of little beasts, you wouldn't be saying that. To be fair, I'll explain what I meant, because it seems that the culture here is to interpret what someone else says as what you would say yourself if you were wrong.

    With the clutch in, the Quad 4 HO doesn't have a lot of rotational inertia, and has a lot of snap if you blip the throttle. With 5W-30 Mobi1 1 (the recommended fill is 5W-30 dino oil), the snap is noticeably better when you blip the throttle with the clutch in. If, as one dealer did, you put in 30W-30 dino oil, the engine even sounds different and is very, very noticeably sluggish with the clutch in. In gear, of course you can't tell what kind of oil is in the car with a "butt dino." The whole idea of a "butt dino" did not come from me but was inferred by others from text that simply said that "the engine has more snap...".

    The same is true of the Northstar to a far lesser degree.

    But, one last point - about trolls!
    • Engine "snap" is something that is observed out-of-gear by blipping the throttle at low RPM.
    • What you call "butt dino" seems to be something that relates to the feel of a car while in-gear.
    Inferring one from the other is not reasonable.


    ----------

    The oil is irrelevant here. Look at the viscosity and density versus temperature of Mobil 1 5W-30 and it compares favorably with 10W-30 dino oil over any temperature range likely to be seen in the US, only it doesn't get overly thick below 0F. Check the geek curves on the oil sites yourself; I did years ago when I first observed oil wars over ten years ago. As rodnok01 explains very patiently, there isn't really a lot of difference between dino and synthetic oils. 5W-30 Mobil 1 has two advantages over 10W-30 dino oil: better for the engine when it's started at temperatures below 32 F, and higher film strength at high temperature. A minor advantage is that it's less physically dense, conveying some minor economy advantage. Father Physics says that energy that is saved (better fuel efficiency) comes out of the motor as power instead of heat. Other than being mildly extravagant and overkill, there is no problem with Mobil 1 in this motor. And, the engine is low mileage and meticulously maintained.

    The pulldown is partially complete. The cams show absolutely no visible wear, and in fact the factory grinding marks seem to be still evident even on the lobe peaks. The engine is as clean as a new build under the cam covers. One of the intake valves on number 8 shows signs of slight staining on the valve stem, probably due to leakage. The valves themselves look good. We need to take the bad one out of the head and examine it to determine the problem.

    It's looking more and more like bad gas and debris under the valve seating surface.
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  6. #36
    N*Caddy's Avatar
    N*Caddy is offline Cadillac Owners Master
    Automobile(s): 1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Age
    36
    Posts
    6,405

    Re: Intake Valve Problem!

    Most of the engine damages happened in the first minute after a cold startup. Basically start the car in the morning and pull it out of the driveway and you made more damages to the engine that in the entire trip to work.
    This is why is very important to have the correct oil viscosity for cold starting.
    basscatt and basscatt like this.
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  7. #37
    Jims_97_ETC's Avatar
    Jims_97_ETC is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): 2011 CTS-V
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Philly Area
    Posts
    38
    Thread Starter

    Re: Intake Valve Problem!

    Oil isn't important in this topic. The engine is as clean as a hound's tooth inside and the cam shows almost no wear. The intakes on number 8 are open and the cam isn't off yet. The back lobes of the intakes show a continuity of lifter contact on the back lobes so the intake lifters do maintain contact. The cam lobes that are showing exhibit almost no wear at all. This is a low-mileage meticulously maintained engine but this is a little better than one would expect after 45,000 miles.

    Aside for the oil war trolls: No, I don't credit the excellent condition of the engine the use of 5W-30 Mobil 1. I attribute it to being a low-mileage, meticulously maintained well-built remanufactured engine with only 45,000 miles on it.

    The intake valves for number 8 themselves look good, and they are open and most of the back of the valves are visible through the enormous Northstar intake ports. Since it has enough compression to run normally except in a cold idle you would expect that too, but it's still reassuring. The head should be off tomorrow; it awaits the removal the damper wheel so the timing can be prearranged and such, and removal of the crossover - which is turning out to be the nastiest part of the job.

    It's looking more and more like it's bad gas and a sticky valve or some such. If so, the simple act of disassembling the head may destroy the cause and with it any way of finding out what caused it in the first place. But, we who are disassembling the motor and the machine shop are very keen on avoiding that and finding the cause, so watch this space for further developments.

    It's not too late for ideas. It's still a very rare thing for a low-mileage well-maintained engine to lose compression on one cylinder through the intake valve. There aren't many possibilities that walk the fine line between being reasonably possible but not so improbable as to not be realistic guesses. Right now we have weird lifter that stopped rotating and stopped rotating the valve with it (unless the spring rotates the valve in the Northstar), weird valve that has a metallurgical flaw, and contamination form bad gas (which I have trouble envisioning myself but there's that TSB in 2011).
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  8. #38
    Submariner409's Avatar
    Submariner409 is offline If it won't run, install a sound system
    Automobile(s): 2002.5 F55 STS/65500mi, 2004 Ford F150 SuperCab4x4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    MD Eastern Shore - Kent Island
    Age
    74
    Posts
    45,606

    Re: Intake Valve Problem!

    It is/was not "bad gas". You can make book on that. The TSB in question has nothing to do with your engine - the 3.6 DI suffers from a LOT of oil ingestion from the PCV system and because it's a DI engine, the intake ports/valves are not washed by the fuel mixture, so the combustion chambers/piston tops get filthy in a hurry. The ports (throats) in your reman engine should be pretty clean at 45K miles. (For a LOT more on the 3.6 DI problems, contact one of our members who professionally builds the things night and day - SC2150.)

    If BOTH intake valves in #8 are partially open and the cam is still in place with the lifters on the heel of the cam lobe then they're either the wrong valves (stems too long) or there's something stuck on the valve seats ....... one seat, maybe ........ both seats in the same cylinder ........ hard to believe. Broken spark plug ground electrode ????
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  9. #39
    Jims_97_ETC's Avatar
    Jims_97_ETC is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): 2011 CTS-V
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Philly Area
    Posts
    38
    Thread Starter

    Re: Intake Valve Problem!

    Submariner409 - the TSB did say in the "Applicabilty" line that it applied to all gasoline engines in cars and light trucks from 2000 through 2012. I suspect that it stopped at 2000 because it was written/revised in 2011. The examples that caused it to be written were in the HV6.

    Your point that the HV6 is particularly susceptible is well taken, though. On my engine you can clearly see that the valve stems are washed very clean by the fuel injectors. Only the valve for the leaky cylinder shows a little brown.

    No, the valves are open because that's the angle that the cam was at when the cam cover was pulled. Here are a couple of relevant photos.

    Here's the intake valves for number 8 through the intake port:
    valves-through-ports.jpg

    Here's the back of the cam lobes, showing contact was maintained by the lifters:
    cam-lobes.jpg

    I see some discoloration on the left valve stem, possibly from back-leakage on firing, but the back of the cam lobe looks normal. Here's the exhaust lobes on the same cylinder:
    exhaust-lobes.jpg

    I believe that the lobes look exceptionally good for an engine with 45,000 miles on it.

    The head is probably coming off today and going to the machine shop. If we ever find out anything it will likely be late today or tomorrow. Difficulties in pulling the crossover and damper wheel may give the bookmakers another day but I believe that we will unseal the envelope by late Tuesday.
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  10. #40
    Ranger's Avatar
    Ranger is online now Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Woodstock Ill.
    Age
    66
    Posts
    74,559

    Re: Intake Valve Problem!

    I realize that there is no warranty, but have you contacted Jasper? They may be interested and if it turns out to be faulty parts or such, maybe they'll offer something. Contact them as informational rather than looking for compensation.

    I cannot imagine what could be holding the valves open if the valve train is still intact. Anxiously awaiting the autopsy results.
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  11. #41
    Jims_97_ETC's Avatar
    Jims_97_ETC is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): 2011 CTS-V
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Philly Area
    Posts
    38
    Thread Starter

    Re: Intake Valve Problem!

    The first thing that I did was to contact Jasper because I wanted to find out if they could contribute anything. They ventured that a leaking fuel injector had resulted in washing down the cylinder walls and losing the cross-hatch, so the rings would lose their seal. The guy on the phone mentioned that this happens if the car sits a lot with a leaking injector. I suppose that 45,000 miles in six years may have looked like a demographic of that kind of use but my 8,000 miles a year is daily use with an occasional lead foot, so I didn't buy that one at all. Incidentally, recently the injectors were checked for leakage by propping up the fuel rail and turning on the ignition a couple of times to get 45 psi on the injectors, and all of them are dry as a bone. But, we knew that already because of the wet/dry and leakdown tests and the hiss in the intake. The injector test was done because, hey, what did it cost once you are already pulling the manifold anyway, and, inquiring minds want to know.

    I asked Jasper about a teardown report if I got another Jasper and was told that this was $175 extra. The shop that did the plugs, coils and wiring and found the compression problem got into the act as they are a big Jasper installer and smelled a sale here, and started a high-pressure push for a new Jasper for $7500. I said no thank you and took the car. They were talking to Jasper too, and I was asking about a valve job, and they were talking to Jasper about every little thing we discussed. Jasper told them that all a teardown report would contain would be rings, intake, or exhaust, and suggested a leakdown test instead. Jasper did NOT want us pulling the head and said that they would refuse the $600 core if we did; that's predictable because they need to reliably expect usable reconditioned parts from their $600.

    After thinking about things for a day or two I brought it back for a leakdown test and to everyone's surprise it came back as an intake valve. The shop then wanted $3500 for a valve job; I told them that they had priced themselves out of the job and left. I did talk to Jasper again, but the waters were poisoned; the guy on the phone seemed convinced that I wanted money or a free engine on an out-of-warranty job or something and was quite hostile. They do have one VIN 9 Northstar for 1996-1997 model years in stock. But there is no way that I am going to buy a new engine for an intake valve. And there is no way I would pay anything like $7500 to buy one and have it installed. There's a trip to Maui for two somewhere in that estimate.

    By that time I had talked to others; one local guy who seemed convinced that he held all the cards bid $2200 for a valve job but his face fell when I told him that I already had another car and his number was for alternatives for a couple of out-of-town buyers that wanted the car, and was too high for the work. But he at least itemized his estimate, if overpricing the labor and going with a flat-rate manual that had more hours for that job than I had seen in another flat-rate manual and bidding that instead of using it as a maximum limit and bidding estimated actual hours. He intimated that it could be a head gasket and made a couple of other faux pas comments too, but I think he could have done the job well for $1500 and if he had bid that he probably would have gotten the work. And, he commented that getting only 45,000 miles out of a Jasper sucked big time. I liked the guy but he just wanted to milk the job a little too much and neither of the buyers wanted to go there for $2200. My next step was to look into outfits in Philly, and idle looking over the next few weeks turned up two or three possibilities and a good machine shop for the head but by that time a friend had adopted the car and was pulling down the front head in his spare time.

    Jasper is out of the picture completely on this car. Sad. I would have liked their advice and comments, and they probably would like to hear the cause themselves. I may call them once we know something.

    This is a very rare problem and I have heard ventures on the cause that includes tiny aliens from another galaxy setting up a colony in the combustion chamber as a friendly, home-like environment and mining one of the intake valves for molybdenum. Most of the guesses here apparently ignored the content of the first post (and several repeats) to the effect that this is a low-mileage well-maintained engine, and most of the posts on this topic are useless oil war posts and a couple of trolls. I'm wondering if anyone has looked at my signature, seeing a CTS and not an Eldorado for my picture, and noting that my car is a 2011 CTS-V and not a 1997 Eldorado. Only in the last few posts by you and Submariner409 have I seen any real focus on the real car and the real problem.

    My fear at this point is that the whole thing is a result of a piece of carbon between the valve and the seat or some such that may escape before it is seen and noted, and we may *never* know what caused the problem.
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  12. #42
    BodybyFisher is offline Guest
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    146

    Re: Intake Valve Problem!

    basscatt, you made your statement about the 5W30 oil and the Quad 4 on prior pages. What do you hope to accomplish with post 41 above? To aggravate, poke fun, or minimize the OP's reach out for help or answers? How does that post help here?

    I was under the impression that this board was here to help other Cadillac lovers not to make fun, torment or ridicule.

    I am the person that is tearing the OP's engine apart right now. We will have ALL the answers in a few days as the what caused this problem and I will report the answers here.

    But I can tell you this much, this engine is spotless, at 45,000 miles there is no abnormal wear, sludge, nothing. Looking into the two intake valve ports, the valves look clean but I could only see about two-thirds of them. Coincidently when I took the cam cover off, the cam had both valves open, when I rotated the engine both valves appeared to close. But again, from the top I was unable to see 100% of the valve. I am waiting for a flywheel holder that I bought off Ebay to arrive.

    I lifted the fuel rail and pressurized the injectors and they did not leak (a concern that Jasper had that may have have damaged the cross hatch). It was confirmed that this was in intake valve with a leakdown test.

    You all should be interested in what caused this, this benefits us all, stop looking for fault, to blame, to flame or criticise this member, we are ALL on the same team here. The OP came here because valve issues are rare (I have only seen one burned valve on a NS located in Germany) and he was hoping the expertise here on this board would chime in. Lets not make this about OIL. We are looking for experience and answers

    Thanks, Mike (BodybyFisher)
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  13. #43
    Ranger's Avatar
    Ranger is online now Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Woodstock Ill.
    Age
    66
    Posts
    74,559

    Re: Intake Valve Problem!

    The piece of carbon holding the valves open, far fetched as that seems, is probably a lot more likely than the laughable leaky injector theory by Jasper. It was obvious that they where grasping at straws trying to deflect any potential liability. If nothing else it does provide a little insight into Jasper. Still curious to hear the findings.
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  14. #44
    BodybyFisher is offline Guest
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    146

    Re: Intake Valve Problem!

    Hi Ranger, I was working in a shop recently that worked exclusively on Cadillacs and they did a head gasket job. The head gasket was GONE between the #1 and #3 cylinders and the owner drove the car a long time with a bad head gasket. The mechanic said that it was the worst head gasket he had ever seen. I observed the entire process.

    When the head gasket / timesert job was completed there was a miss on the #1 cylinder due to low compression (75 psi). The mechanic pulled the head again and noticed that the cross hatch was gone on #1 from coolant washing the oil away from the cylinder walls. (Let this be a lesson to us all to check the cylinder cross hatching damage when we do a head gasket) In addition the valve stems on #1 were corroded from the coolant and needed to be cleaned up as the valves were hanging open. Lets face the facts, fuel would clean the cylinder better if not equal to hot coolant/steam.

    The point I am bringing up is that the thought that a leaking injector could damage the cross hatch and compression is real and I am sure that Jasper has experienced it. But I personally would think that the CAT would be damaged first, the O2 sensor would be damaged or there would be driveability issues but some drivers would ignore a check engine light and continue driving a car that was damaging itself.

    But I think that we have eliminated the idea that an injector caused this.

    I want to say something here, I worked in a shop recently and I can not tell you how many car owners ride around with a check engine light on for a year or more. When I was checking the cause of a check engine light I would ask the customer, how long has it been on, and they inevitably would say oh maybe a YEAR..... in many cases I said, well its an O2 sensor or CAT problem, your engine is running in open loop, its running rich and you can cause more damage as a result, wheneven you see a CEL, act on it fast to find out what it is. In speaking with a CAT manufacturer recently bad O2 sensors are the primary reason CATs fail and I saw a bunch of CEL's showing both O2 sensor and resultant CAT codes because the rich mixture damaged the CAT.

    Owners out there do not understand the damage that they can cause ignoring a check engine light, in Jaspers defense, they probably deal with a lot of end user idiots out there.
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

  15. #45
    RippyPartsDept's Avatar
    RippyPartsDept is offline Hi, I'm Chris - Please Read My Signature
    Automobile(s): 1999 DeVille "Bianca" (white/blue, VIN-Y, 160k)
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Wilmington, NC
    Age
    34
    Posts
    14,004

    Re: Intake Valve Problem!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger View Post
    The piece of carbon holding the valves open, far fetched as that seems, is probably a lot more likely than the laughable leaky injector theory by Jasper. It was obvious that they where grasping at straws trying to deflect any potential liability. If nothing else it does provide a little insight into Jasper. Still curious to hear the findings.
    i asked around a bit here and besides something like the 'piece of carbon' theory a valve failure of some kind is about the only other guess we could come up with

    at this point i think it's kind of counterproductive to speculate since Mike's so close to having a real answer for us

    ...

    one question my guys asked was how you determined the intake was the problem (and not the exhaust) from a leakdown test?
    also they asked what the compression was on that cyl
    Chris Heath (RippyPartsDept) is an ASE Certified GM Parts Consultant at Rippy Automotive
    Rippy is a Cadillac, Hummer, Saturn & Saab dealership & Official Saab Service Center
    ~~ Family owned and operated in Wilmington, NC since 1946 ~~
    We offer all forum members discounts on parts and freight
    phone: 800-RIPPY-22
    <-- insert standard boilerplate about posts not necessarily representing my employer, etc -->
    Quick reply to this message Reply  

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Bookmarks

Cadillac Posting Rules

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Read about Lincoln | Buick | Kia Forte Forum
Need products for your Cadillac? Check out your options at the links below:

custom floor mats | Cadillac Chrome and Black Chrome Wheels | window tinting