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Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, Post new radiator install, temp issues in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; ????? First, the fluid was blue and stayed blue, so the test was negative - no exhaust gas in the ...
  1. #31
    Submariner409's Avatar
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    Re: Post new radiator install, temp issues

    ????? First, the fluid was blue and stayed blue, so the test was negative - no exhaust gas in the airspace over the coolant. Then you kept going (if a little bit is good, more must be better) and the test fluid ran into the coolant. Now you may need to do a complete coolant exchange: Who knows what chemicals are in the (little bit) of test fluid ?

    The fluid stays blue if all's OK - it turns blue > clear > yellow green if the test shows gasses in the airspace over the coolant.

  2. #32
    curlywurly is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: Post new radiator install, temp issues

    The instructions said to squeeze the bulb for 2 minutes, so this was my target, and after watching various videos online the time to change color can vary, I squeezed around 10 times, it was not blue at this point, but I noticed that the fluid level had dropped a little, so I aborted the test, thinking that maybe I hadn't pushed down on the tester to make a really good seal as I had seen people do this in the videos, so I repeated, it did the same thing again, so I stopped and left it at that.

    Might be bromine in the test fluid.

  3. #33
    Submariner409's Avatar
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    Re: Post new radiator install, temp issues

    The fluid should not "turn blue" - it's already blue from the bottle. IF you have a head gasket leak that is putting combustion gasses into the cooling system the fluid should go blue > clear > yellowish green, and the speed of the change is controlled by the concentration of exhaust gas in the coolant.

    I don't know the reason the test fluid ran into the reservoir - In my two testers the lower tube fitting (the tapered rubber plug) has a spring loaded ball check valve designed to prevent any fluid from draining into the reservoir.

    FWIW, the pre-test setup says to load the tester with fluid (to the line) and then bubble fresh air through the fluid for 2 minutes - If the fluid remains blue and the tester does not leak, proceed with the exhaust gas test. If any part of the tester is contaminated with coolant it must be washed and dried before attempting another test.

    EDIT: I just went and read the complete instructions on the test fluid bottle - Did your tester come with one or two bleed fittings that are used in the vacuum hose between the tester and vacuum source ?

    www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis75500.html

  4. #34
    curlywurly is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: Post new radiator install, temp issues

    Sorry, I should have said, it did not change color, it stayed blue.

    This is the kit: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc..._&target=shelf

    The instructions make no mention of bubbling fresh air as pre-test condition.

    Ok, I tried the tester out just using water (in the garage, not on the car), if I hold the tester in the air and use it, air gets sucked in threw the water, bubbles just as you expected, no water is coming out of the bottom on bulb squeezes.

    I repeated the process, this time a placed the bung into bottle, squeezed the bulb, it bubbles threw, but the water level goes down in the tube into my bottle, when I release the bung/tube it is obvious there is suction there (vacuum) - I repeat the process, this time I slightly lift the bung so it does not completely seal the bottle top, and squeeze, bubbles threw and no fluid is loss.

    I'm now going to clean and dry the tester out, before reuse.

  5. #35
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    Re: Post new radiator install, temp issues

    You might drive the car and if you are still having problems, do the test right after an overheat episode.

  6. #36
    curlywurly is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: Post new radiator install, temp issues

    I have repeated the engine block test, this time I let the tester bung rest loosely on the surge tank cap, and then squeezed the bulb, the test fluid stayed in the tester, and it stayed blue, it did not change color. I did the test after driving the car for 10 miles or so.

    I then tried to clean out the surge hose outlet nipple (B on photo) from the engine, not easy as it is curved, and used a metal cable from a bicycle brake, poked it around, not sure if it did anything or not, I also used a heavy duty zip tie, poked it around. I have question, to better clean this it seems I have to remove the entire throttle body assembly, is this correct?

    I put it all back together, and the gauge still goes up to the second marker past 12 o'clock, then goes back down, it seems it goes back down if a back off the throttle, at say 45-50mph, and just coast for awhile, the revs at about 1800rpm or so. I pulled over several times to check the level in the surge tank, and it was very very near the top, before I left for the drive, engine cold, the surge tank was about 1 1/2 below the line on the tank, problem is, if I top it off (cold) to the line I can guarantee that once the engine has warmed it will be coming out of the surge tank cap.

    I had to unfasten item "A" in the photo, to get at the hose clip, not sure what item "A" does, but the inlet had a lot of carbon build up, I would say it was around 25% blocked, I cleaned that out.


    surge_hose3.jpg

  7. #37
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    Re: Post new radiator install, temp issues

    Just spit balling here, but I wonder if the rad is bad or plugged with the crap you dumped in. You had zero problems with overheating until you changed the rad correct? There was a fellow on here not too long ago with very similar problems and spent months trying to figure it out, ended up being rad was not flowing enough(it was plugged/bent something). He replaced and viola. Maybe you didn't get such a good deal on ebay after all?

  8. #38
    curlywurly is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: Post new radiator install, temp issues

    Yep, until the original rad got a hole in it, it worked fine. I've just spent awhile in the garage watching how it flows, engine warmed up idling, temp gauge at 12, the coolant level gets very near the top, I rev the engine, temp gauge goes up to just a little pass 12, coolant levels rises a little more, I then let it idle again, after 15 seconds or so at idle nearly all the coolant drains out of the surge tank, there is just a little coolant visible at the lower hose to surge tank connection - is this normal? It's like the inflow to the surge tank is greater than the out-flow and it backs-up. What coolant level would you expect in the surge tank once the engine is warmed up?

    You could be right, my the rad is bad, I thinking of taking to the shop near me, they do all sorts of diagnostics, get a second look at it.

  9. #39
    mike5514 is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: Post new radiator install, temp issues

    Surge line flows cap is good? You might have a air pocket!

    With engine cold have ready a 50/50 mix of coolant have some one start and run engine at 1600 rpm then if coolant level drops add coolant while engine is at 1600 rpm fill tank to top and replace surge tank cap. Turn off engine and observe do a short test drive if the tank stays too full you can always remove coolant with a baster. Be careful engine/coolant cold wear a face shield

  10. #40
    curlywurly is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    I ordered a new cap yesterday, didn't cost much so thought it worth a shot.

    What is worrying is that that the flow rate of coolant coming out of the hose that connects to the top of the surge tank (disconnected from surge tank so I could observe) is virtually non existent at idle, and I really do mean that, hardly anything, this, I would guess, is not normal, however, when I rev the engine it flows reasonably well, I guess:

    a) A bad water pump may cause this
    b) A blockage, air lock or contamination
    c) A partially opened thermostat

    I will try out your tip and report back.

  11. #41
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    Re: Post new radiator install, temp issues

    NEVER fill the tank to the top. You need at least an inch or two of air space for expansion.

    I wouldn't get too concerned if there is no flow from the purge line at idle. As long as there is flow when the RPM is increased, the line is clear.

    ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by curlywurly View Post
    engine warmed up idling, temp gauge at 12, the coolant level gets very near the top, I rev the engine, temp gauge goes up to just a little pass 12, coolant levels rises a little more, I then let it idle again, after 15 seconds or so at idle nearly all the coolant drains out of the surge tank, there is just a little coolant visible at the lower hose to surge tank connection - is this normal?
    No, that is not normal. There is a sudden release of coolant somewhere. I did not go back and read everything. Did you put any kink of stop leak snake oil in it? If so, you might need to power flush the system and maybe the heater core and radiator separately.

  12. #42
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    Re: Post new radiator install, temp issues

    Yes he added sealant stuff to system Ranger...

  13. #43
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    Re: Post new radiator install, temp issues

    With everything he describes AND a negative block test, I'd flush that system (preferably a power flush). Sure seems like there has to be a blockage somewhere. Maybe even change the thermostat if it has not been changed. They're usually pretty reliable, but who knows, maybe this one is sticking.

  14. #44
    curlywurly is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: Post new radiator install, temp issues

    Yes I added Barsleak G12BP, and really regret it now. I'll get it flushed. Is this easy to do yourself? If I take it to a shop (most likely) is a power flush different from a regular flush?

  15. #45
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    Re: Post new radiator install, temp issues

    Quote Originally Posted by curlywurly View Post
    Yes I added Barsleak G12BP, and really regret it now. I'll get it flushed. Is this easy to do yourself? If I take it to a shop (most likely) is a power flush different from a regular flush?
    ------------------------
    you want it flushed - not just a regular drain and fill -

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