WP Tensioner puley replacement - Help
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Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, WP Tensioner puley replacement - Help in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; Hey Sub, can you replace the tensioner pulley without removing the tensioner arm? Can I just remove the cover, release ...
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    Caddydrummer67's Avatar
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    WP Tensioner puley replacement - Help

    Hey Sub, can you replace the tensioner pulley without removing the tensioner arm? Can I just remove the cover, release the tension, replace the pulley and then put the belt and cover back on and be good to go, or do I have to take the arm off as well? Also, what size are those little nuts that hold the cover on, they must be metric.

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    MoistCabbage's Avatar
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    It isn't necessary to remove the arm. Nuts/studs are 10MM.

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    Re: Proper coolant service for 4.6L Northstar engine

    Thanks, MC

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    Re: Proper coolant service for 4.6L Northstar engine

    Yup ...... Thanx.

    That tensioner arm has a "lug" cast into its backside. Use a 10mm or crescent to grab the lug and rotate the tensioner arm upward/rearward, loosening the belt. Flip the belt off and spin the pulley: it should be viscous, quiet, smooth and not grainy/rattley (?). If necessary, remove the tensioner pulley center bolt and install a new pulley.

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    Re: Proper coolant service for 4.6L Northstar engine

    Thanks, Sub. I already have the pulley, I'm pretty sure the old one is bad. If not, I'm going to have to figure out what else could be
    making that grainy, ticking-like, rustling, rattley noise from the drivers side of the engine bay when I accelerate.

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    Re: Proper coolant service for 4.6L Northstar engine

    Replace the pulley and if you feel the need, while the pulley is off the tensioner arm, wiggle the belt out and replace it too. Gates, Goodyear, Delco, whatever. Use a flashlight to make very sure that belt engages all 3 grooves on the water pump pulley - easy to screw that up.

    Gates belt # K030243 (3PK618), 13/32"W X 24 7/8" Outside Circumference (OC)(11 X 632 mm)

    For grins, pick off one of the pulley grease seals and snoop. Clean the old grease out with a gasoline soak. Dry the bearing and spin it - rattles, clicks, anything other than a low metallic whirrrrrrr means the bearing is toast.

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    WP Tensioner puley replacement - Help

    OK, So I got the shield off, but then I could not release the tension in order to get the belt off the pulley. I could force the tensioner forward and release the tension, but it was difficult and I was not able to get the belt off the pulley. There is not enough clearance to get a 1/4" ratchet into the square hole in the back of the tensioner. Also, assuming you are able to get the old belt off. It seems you have to remove the tensioner in order to get a new belt on. How do you remove the tensioner?

    There are a couple of nuts, basically on the same bolts as the nuts that were holding the shield on. Are these the ones you remove to take the tensioner off?

    Spent about an hour and a half on it, and wasn't able to get it done.
    Don't really understand how you are supposed to get the belt off. That spring is pretty strong.

    Am I going about it wrong?

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    Re: WP Tensioner puley replacement - Help

    Use a proper sized socket on the tensioner pulley hub bolt itself or use an adjustable wrench on the cast-on lug on the side of the tensioner arm.

    Yes, the two long studs also hold the tensioner arm onto the water crossover - there's no coolant involved if you remove them. The tensioner base plate is threaded for the studs.

    Pictures and diagrams in my albums - click my username, open the profile, 2 albums, 6 pages of stuff in the left column.

    There's another thread on this pretty close to this one............ "1st time overheating.........."

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    I found it easier to take the tensioner off when changing the belt,I think its held on with two bolts.make sure its all lined up when re installing.

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    Re: WP Tensioner puley replacement - Help

    Caddydrummer67, I moved the other posts on your water pump drive system to this thread - now it's all in one place. Go back and read over the previous advice.

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    Re: WP Tensioner puley replacement - Help

    Thanks. Sub

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    Re: WP Tensioner puley replacement - Help

    Hey sub. If it won't run slap a lame, two foot high, home-made hood scoop on it. Good for at least 30 HP. If that doesn't work, go
    with a coffee can exhaust tip and 14''x10" wheels with super low-profile tires. Don't forget the curb feelers and neon rocker panel
    lights.

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    Re: WP Tensioner puley replacement - Help

    I HATE curb feelers - I use two wire-tied fishing rod ends, one on each bumper. I already have 4 fart-can mufflers with custom black dust tips and blue strobe lights in each fenderwell.

    You forgot the blue silk bra hanging from the mirror.

    Here's my new CAI - good for at least 40 hp at idle..............(NO, I didn't do before and after dyno runs, but I believe the advertisements. They're always true.) Notice that the valve cover PCV vents to the open atmosphere - That removes so much crankcase restriction that I don't need an oil catch can for even greater horsepower and bling rights.

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    I have a set of 14 inch plastic hub cap spinning rims.

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    Re: WP Tensioner puley replacement - Help

    OK, got 'er done. If you loosen the first stud or bolt holding the tensioner arm on, that is the one closest to the firewall, the whole arm will pivot backward providing clearance to get the belt around and off, and also get the new one on. Easy to get the belt off once you figure it out. Just use a 13mm wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt itself and push forward. I don't think the old pulley and belt were going to fail anytime soon, because they seemed OK, but now I know they are new and won't have to worry about it. Total cost - $46

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