Vacuum & other things - 1996 Eldorado - Page 4
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Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, Vacuum & other things - 1996 Eldorado in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; thanks sub, haven't checked yet, but will do tomorrow morning. when i changed wires i did it one by one, ...
  1. #46
    el_dorado_mex's Avatar
    el_dorado_mex is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: Vacuum & other things - 1996 Eldorado

    thanks sub, haven't checked yet, but will do tomorrow morning. when i changed wires i did it one by one, but you never know...

  2. #47
    el_dorado_mex's Avatar
    el_dorado_mex is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: Vacuum & other things - 1996 Eldorado

    spark "issue" "solved"!!!

    checked the wires according to the diagram sub posted (thanks!) and all are put to the tower they belong.

    now this is gonna sound somewhat stupid, but i guess it might help someone someday that finds himself in the same situation...
    the solution is as formerly suspected in the waste spark system, but, additionally, also in the diagnostic method. actually once more it came to me last night, thinking about it... read a thread here on how the icm etc. work and there is a fine detail on how the spark is produced that makes a huge difference! spark voltage (20kV+) is produced between the two towers, not as in classic systems between coil and ground. that means one tower gets a positive potential and the other the negative of same charge. now how does this make a difference for diagnostics? the difference is the current flow: tower 1 -> wire 1 -> plug 1 -> gap 1 (producing spark between center electrode and ground electrode) -> engine metal parts -> gap 2 (producing spark between ground electrode and center electrode) -> plug 2 -> wire 2 -> tower 2, done.

    and how is that important? it isn't until you use a test light to visualize sparks... any testlight i've seen has an arrow on the induction clamp (the thing you put on the wire), meaning it will only visualize correctly when put in the right direction. so in case of the rear bank wires, you have to put it the way around you normally would, arrow pointing to coil, not to plug! simply because current flow is from plug to wire...

    well, you never stop learning! so in the end there is no spark issue on my car anymore (there sure was because of ckp's). just the diagnose method made the difference. so hopefully that might give somebody a clue someday, who is using a testlight to diagnose things on those cars...

    and of course, turning the induction clamp around gave me a lot of spark at the rear bank.

  3. #48
    el_dorado_mex's Avatar
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    Re: Vacuum & other things - 1996 Eldorado

    ok, back with some progress. not on the o2 sensor, too lazy right now for that. but i did check on suspension and traction control. the front suspension is passive and the position sensors have been unplugged, so i plugged them together and put some 4.7kohm in the actor plugs (solenoid plugs). one of the position sensors is fine now, the other one not, will check later. but the resistance to fool the brain didn't work, have a 10 ohm 25w also, will check with that later. also had a tc0063 (valve relay circuit) and a tc0027 (lf speed sensor open circuit). the tc0063 disappeared by its own unplugging and putting back the plug to the ebtcm. the tc0027 required soldering work since once more there were melted cables... but it did go away and now for the first time with that car i have first gear, yeah! i also did the a/c compressor clutch coil, i'll write a new post on that, maybe it could be considered sticky or tech or whatever didn't find too much on this topic on the net...

  4. #49
    el_dorado_mex's Avatar
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    Re: Vacuum & other things - 1996 Eldorado

    ok, now here's the little write up on how to change a hd-6 clutch coil, result from having that work done on a 96 eldo:

    tools you'll need:
    • clutch removal and installation tool (metric), az # mt1115
    • 6" puller, generic
    • 13/16" socket, short
    • standard tools, including punch (flat end)

    the removal and install tool:


    let's get started:
    • take off accessory belt
    • jack up the car
    • remove rf wheel
    • remove splash guards


    • screw the clutch removal tool into the clutch center thread, as far as you can go


    • screw the center part of the removal tool into the outer part until it touches the compressor shaft
    • hold the outer part and screw in the center part with a 19mm wrench until the clutch can be removed


    • remove clutch, be careful not to drop the shaft key (in my case it wasn't there)





    • take out the clip that holds the pulley in place



    • using the 13/16" nut, pull off the pulley with the generic puller, don't pull it against the compressor shaft, you'll damage it
    remark: the pulley doesn't sit on the compressor very tight, you may be able to get it off by hand





    now you can see the clutch coil (and in this case the reason for the job, broken connector):

    • pry off the coil as far as necessary with a screwdriver (or two), until you may use the puller for the rest, the reason is that the coil sits pretty close to the compressor and leaves no space to put on the puller completely




    • clean the area
    • mount the new coil using the punch and a soft hammer, this may take some time and effort, take care of putting the coil on evenly and till it's completely seated (check that the connector is placed within one of the two possible gaps or you may damage it). also don't hammer on the plastic part, just on the metal ring


    • put the pulley back on, this can be done by hand
    • check that it turns freely, if it doesn't, take it off and check that the coil is seated correctly
    • mount back the clip and make sure it sits tight in the groove


    • put the clutch back on and turn the removal tool around to make it an install tool
    • pull the clutch towards the pulley using the bearing that comes with the removal/install tool by pulling against the compressor shaft thread (i guess the next picture explains it better than my words)


    • leave a gap between clutch and pulley of between 0.020 to 0.030, using a feeler gauge
    • plug in the coil
    • put the accessory belt back on
    • check for proper functioning and if it works fine mount back splash guards and wheel
    • lower the car and tighten the wheel nuts to spec

    you just saved yourself a couple of bucks, congratulations!

  5. #50
    Submariner409's Avatar
    Submariner409 is offline If it won't run, stick on fender vents
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    Re: vacuum & other things

    Nice writeup, with clear pics. I copied the post to a new thread in Cadillac Tech Tips - "1996 Northstar A/C clutch overhaul".

    Thanks.

  6. #51
    el_dorado_mex's Avatar
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    Re: Vacuum & other things - 1996 Eldorado

    thanks sub, appreciate that.

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