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Help, Mode Door Issues - 2003 SLS

13K views 19 replies 3 participants last post by  basscatt 
#1 ·
Help, I followed these instructions, 2003 Seville SLS, Problem started out when all of a sudden, my AC would only work in Defrost mode, so I went thru all these steps and replaced the Mode Actuator, Opened it up and it the main gear was cracked in 2 places, while I had it out I opened up the Blend actuator and sure enough, it was cracked all the way thru as well. Was able to cycle thru all the vents by hand before I put the actuator on, got it all mounted up.

Here is what it is doing, when I turn the key, I can watch the Mode actuator cycle between all the different cycles, air blows as it should while doing this, the problem is that when its done cycling, it goes to defrost and stays there, regardless of what setting I leave it on...

I have no idea where to go from here, I pulled the codes, and I get an !PC U1000 and a IPM B1340 which if I am not mistaken is Air Mix Door Movement Fault. I have done everything I can think of from researching the forums/Web, I have checked all fuses, Disconnected the Battery and I am now at a loss where to go from here.

Please, if there is anyone out there who might point me in the right direction, Please respond, would hate to take it in after all this hard work, For now, I turned the key, and when it hit the vents, I turned it off and unplugged the actuator so it is stuck there for now.

Thank you in advance for your assistance, these Forums an awesome resource and It is appreciated more than you can imagine.

All the best - Brian
 
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#3 ·
Help, Mode Door Issues

Have an AC problem, Last week my AC Mode door started acting funny, it keeps finding itself stuck on Def/Foot mode, when you start up, it cycles thru all the modes just fine, then goes to face likes its set, after about 15 seconds, it automatically goes to defrost/foot and stays there, nothing you can do to change it. display shows face but it will not leave defrost Researched things and cracked open the dash, replaced the mode door actuator, opened the old one up and it did have 2 cracks in the gear. Got it all back together, plugged everything in and .... same thing, just going to def/foot and staying there. Tried undoing the battery, pulling the number 2 fuse for 60 seconds... Nothing

Finally went to a repair shop, spent $260 dollars so they could tell me it was broken, thought it needed calibrating or something with a computer, but no, they said they could fix for $1000 (and thats with me having the dash opened up)... Sigh.. they said that both the Mode door and the blend door were down and needed replacing and that I must have gotten a defective one or I hit it with power before it was connected to the cam that controls the vents.

Does this make sense, what am I doing wrong, I can watch the door function and cycle just fine under power when you start the car, great face air for 15 seconds, then off to defrost again. Temporary fix is I just unplugged the actuator while it was on face mode and now its stuck there.

Any way to fix this one??? Will pay good if someone can give me a fix that works, the car is 10 feet away from me and I will do what it takes to fix this damn thin.

If I need to re-order the actuators, they are under the dash, just to the right of the drivers right knee in the console, one is the Mode actuator, the other controls the misture of hot n cold, they are right next to each other, but when I look up actuators, there are what seems like hundreds of different actuators, some for aux units that are cheaper, some righr or left, I just cannot figure out which ones to buy and have already dropped several hundred dollars trying to get this fixed, can anyone help??? I need to find a PN or something like that, the ones in the car have this information printed on them but I cannot get this to correlate to any replacement parts

Mode Door
LH ( I am pretty sure the old one had a CB on it)
52492938
0533112131A

Blend Door
S
16164972
N3322553A
Side of actuator 32518699

Please help if you can -- Thanks in advance - Brian
 
#4 · (Edited)
Re: Help, Mode Door Issues

What model car is this ?? If it's a Seville, the HVAC stack is different from a CTS. (Correct your profile)(I believe you have a SLS)

I moved your other posts (#1, deleted, #2) on this question FROM Cadillac Tech Tips - that is a "How to" forum, not a "How do I ...." forum.

Your best bet may be to Call Chris in Parts at Rippy Cadillac over there >>>>>

........or Luke in Parts at Lindsay Cadillac >>>>
 
#5 ·
I went through the Factory Service Manual -
and the first thing that I thought about was the
re-calibration procedure -

without clearing the memory of the modules -
they won't know what position the doors are in -

the modules use a "count" or "index" system of 0 to 255

I also read your post about the generous guys
who could fix your car for $1000 - mighty nice of them -

and your confusion about the different actuators -
lets clear that one up first -
anything related to "AUX" or auxiliary
is referring to the rear seat controls -

the left and right mix actuators are for the drivers or passengers sides -
they control the temperatures -
the passengers temp control also controls the temp for the rear seat -

the rear seat has its own blower and its own mode door actuator -

-----------
lets try a little different method of recalibrating -

first - clear all the codes - if you don't know how -
rear the STICKY "how to pull codes"

remove both battery cables from the battery -
now touch the cables together for at least 2 minutes -

reattach the battery cables -

turn the ignition to ON - but do not start the car -

turn the blower to a very slow speed - we want the blower spinning -
but we are listening for door movements - so we need things quiet -

did the mode door still go through the same start-up procedure
and end up at defrost - or did that change -

select the drivers side temperature - set it to 60* -
did you hear the door move -
let it sit there foe 30 seconds - then - quickly turn it up to 90* -
listen for the door to move -
you may need to put your ear close to the vent to hear the doors -
turn it back to 60*

now do the same thing with the passengers temperature control -

next - exercise the MODE actuator -

select the defrost position if it is not already there -
wait 30 seconds -
then quickly turn it to the floor mode -
do you hear the mood door moving - did it get to the floor -

wait 30 seconds to a minute - select defrost again -
wait 30 seconds to a minute - did it get to defrost -

cycle between defrost and floor several times -

now select the center vent - did it get there -

the current settings should be
fan on very low
drivers temp 60*
passengers temp 60*
center vent
--------------------

now turn the ignition OFF - wait for a minute - and start the car -
try all the stuff we did above -

what happens -

----------------
with the engine still running - check for codes -
I would think if the mix or mode doors weren't responding -
fault codes would be set -

try everything above and report what you find -

also - in the "personalization" section -
you can program the system to remember your climate control settings -
see page 3-33 of your owners manual -
if you would like a FREE downloadable copy - go here -

http://www.manualowl.com/am/Cadillac/2003-Seville/Manual/218
 
#6 ·
OK, did everything as follows

Cleared codes on system, removed battery cables, touched pos to neg for 2 min, Plugged in actuators, turned ignition to on. I dont have to use my ears as I still have the dash apart and can visualize the actuators while working with them.

Mode did its typical start up cycle, rotated to one extreme which put in on face/floor, it remained there for about 9 seconds then rotated all the way up to Def/foot and stayed there, nothing thru the process changed this. Happens consistently every time the key is turned on, but not when you cycle the power to the AC

Temp Door was on heat only, there it stayed, no movement as I tried to make changes to the control, the passenger mix door is moving perfectly with the temp changes at the control panel. If I put it on solo control by turning off the passenger system, and do a temp change with the drivers control, the passenger mix door reacts and changes with the temp change but the drivers side does not.

I do note that the tech said that the signals were making it to the actuators but they were not responding when I picked it up from them yesterday

Got Sick of the heat blowing, so I removed the Temp Actuator, opened it up and there is a crack in the gear, since the gear only rotates thru about 120 degrees of arc before it hits the stops, I put the crack in a location where it cannot effect the system, I can move the physical door freely by hand, reset actuator so door was on cold when I reassembled and repeated the process to try and bring it to life, but when I turned on the system, it did rotate to hot and stay there, then at some point it rotated back to cold and has been there since... No changes with the mode door tho, so its back unplugged on face, with cold air blowing (a real plus in Phx this time of year)

Pulled the codes... sheesh, what a list

AMP B1004 HISTORY
DDM B3832 CURRENT
DDM B3833 CURRENT
DIM B1324 HISTORY
IPC B1004 HISTORY
IPC U1000 CURRENT
IPM B1652 HISTORY
IPM B1340 CURRENT

I do have a bad left rear window that is not rolling down, something broke inside and has been like that forever, which is probably some of those codes. I found a source to get the actuators at Didlys for a decent price if that is the way I need to go.

What next Master???

Thank you for the assistance -- It is more appreciated than you know
Brian
 
#7 ·
-------------------------
B1340 - Air Mix Door One Movement Fault

If I put it on solo control by turning off the passenger system,
and do a temp change with the drivers control,
the passenger mix door reacts and changes with the temp change
but the drivers side does not.


the B1340 code tells me the AC programmer is responding properly
to the demand to change the DRIVER side temp - you turned it colder -
but the Air Mix Door One - the drivers side mix door - is not responding -
to the Programmer's command -

so either the mix door is stuck -
preventing the actuator from moving -

or the actuator is not moving the door -

if I remember correctly - you said you could easily move the door -
so the MIX DOOR #1 actuator must be bad -
-----------------
the MODE door has me somewhat stumped - TEMPORARILY -

Mode did its typical start up cycle,
rotated to one extreme which put in on face/floor,
it remained there for about 9 seconds
then rotated all the way up to Def/foot and stayed there,
nothing thru the process changed this.

Happens consistently every time the key is turned on,
but not when you cycle the power to the AC

I'm not sure I understand what this means -

QUESTION -
what position/mode does the mode door start in -
each time you turn the ignition ON -

with the engine running -
what happens to the mode door
if you turn the AC off - then back on -

so - correct me if I'm wrong -
the mode door did it's usual start-up thing -
and stayed at the center vents for a few seconds -
then moved to defrost/floor and nothing you do changes that -
so - the mode door stays on defrost 'til you shut the engine off -

the next time you turn the ignition on -
it simply repeats the same process - correct?

I would think if the MODE door actuator was bad -
it would set a code like the mix door did -

but because the mode door DOES move - it won't set a code -
it just doesn't respond properly to your commands -

so that leads me to a bad programmer -
OR the wiring from the programmer
to the actuator is screwed-up -

but if the wiring was bad -
the mode door actuator wouldn't receive a command to move -
so it wouldn't move - but it does - so it can't be the wiring -

Two things are on my mind -

FIRST - in the car's PERSONALIZATION -
you can program the memory 1 and memory 2 -
to remember the AC settings - for Driver 1 and Driver 2 -
go in there and turn that feature OFF for BOTH drivers

that way the AC settings should stay where you left them -

the second thing is
I remember something about the climate control system -
automatically changing the mode door from the center vent position -
to the floor position - on start-up - when it's hot -
so the driver doesn't get a face full of hot air -

this might NOT be a feature from this car -

but if it is -
we could have a defective cabin temp sensor -
telling the programmer the air is hot -
so don't blast the drivers face with hot air -
send the air to the floor - until the air is cold enough -

I think there are 8 temp sensors scattered throughout the interior -
and you WOULD need a scanner to get the readings from them -

I'll keep looking - tomorrow
 
#8 ·
On the Mix door, I can move it freely by hand when the actuator is out, not a problem, so concur that the actuator must be bad.

As for that pesky mode door, I can visualize it from underneath looking from the drivers door with my head sideways on the floor, on key turn, it rotates what seems to be about 120-140 degrees clockwise until it hits the stop I believe, this puts it on face/foot mix, there it sits for about 8-9 seconds then it rotates same distance counterclockwise to the other stop putting it on Def/feet and there it stays,

Happens consistently every time the key is turned on,
but not when you cycle the power to the AC
I'm not sure I understand what this means -
"

with the engine running -
what happens to the mode door
if you turn the AC off - then back on -


Same issue, if the key is on, and I cycle power to the AC (turn it off with the button while key is on) Nothing changes, no movement whatsoever, movement of actuator only occurs if I turn key off, then back on.

the next time you turn the ignition on -
it simply repeats the same process - correct?
that is correct.

Well, the mechanics did state that both the actuators were bad, that the car was sending the signals down the wires and they were not responding correctly, Proactively I just placed an order for both actuators, am not going to do anything with them until you tell me to do so and how to do it as I don't want to potentially mess them up as I might have messed these up.

Thanks for letting me borrow your brain, - B
 
#9 ·
I am 99% comfortable condemning the mix door actuator -

we have the DTC - fault code -

you can easily move the door by hand - not stuck -

the only thing we didn't do is check the voltage of the serial wire -
to the faulty actuator - this is where the "indexing" comes in -

ALL the actuators are "indexed" to specific "counts" of 0 to 255 -
and also specific voltages correspond to the "counts" - from 0 to 5 volts -

just as an example - right from the FSM -
if the left mix actuator was commanded by the programmer to deliver
MAX TEMP - it delivers 237 "counts" or 4.65 volts -
MIN TEMP - is 8 "counts or .16 volts -

so - if the programmer sends the signal -
"go to position 237" - by sending 4.65 volts -
but the actuator does NOT respond that it is in the proper position -
a fault code is set -
------------------------------

but I am not even 50% on the mode door actuator -
because we have NO code -
and the mode door does move - so it's NOT stuck -

I wish I could find a chart that gave the count values and voltages
for the specific settings of the mode door -

unfortunately - the FSM only lists the "TYPICAL DATA VALUE" as "varies"
unlike the specific values it shown for other actuators -
this is where the dealer's scan tool comes in -

HOWEVER - it does give us a clue -

we know the voltage changes the position of the actuator -

so if we disconnect the supply plug at the mode door actuator -
and probe the signal wire with a Digital Volt Meter -
we should see different voltages from the programmer
as we change the mode -

if not - I would blame the programmer - not the actuator -

N*Caddy is our resident electrical engineer -
I'm going to send him a plea for additional help -
to either verify or dismiss my diagnosis -
 
#10 ·
OK, I shall endevour to dig up a digital volt meter in anticipation of future testing and analysis, am tempted to by the Code machine/computer for 1200 just to spite the car and greedy mechanics lol, but not quite there yet, great explanations and thanks, will monitor for additional information
 
#12 ·
ordered, should be here early next week, wow, from $25 up to $200, and the $25 one looked the cleanest, that's scary, fingers crossed, would love to go explain to the expert guy what was wrong with this thing after all, thanks, and if nothing else, I will always have a spare part lol
 
#13 ·
So when all these parts get in, what shall I do and in what order, I have both actuators coming in, as well as the control module, should I start out by replacing the Temp door actuator, and see what results that gives me, do I need to calibrate anything, or should it be a plug and play proposition, the mechanic that charged me $200 to explain to me that the system was broken told me that if I replace the actuator, not to plug it in and if I brought it to him, he would calibrate it at no charge... thought that was nice of him, of course I was pretty pissed at the time of discussion so that may have played a part. (best line of the day was, yes we do charge a bit more, butl we have a really nice waiting room, and we do offer wi-fi at no charge to our customers) I just cannot get that line out of my mind.

thoughts?
B

Oh, and I did get a digital multimeter so I can pull voltages from individual wires if needed to validate that the module is broken, just need to know what wires and what tests to run. Thanks
 
#14 ·
yes we do charge a bit more,
butl we have a really nice waiting room,
and we do offer wi-fi at no charge to our customers


it's sort of funny that you bring this up -
there is a BEAUTIFUL shop near my Mom's house
that all the women from the Womans League -
and Mom's bridge groups - go to -
the waiting room is divided into several "pods" -
each with it's own LCD TV - free fresh-brewed coffee -
and it also has a bunch of computers - or you can bring your own -

their hourly rate is $125 and they are a bunch of HACKS -

While I was down there - I found a GREAT mechanic -
crappy old building - no waiting room - gravel parking lot -
his diagnosis is spot-on - his work is perfect - $65/hr labor rate -
and LOVES working on Cadillacs -
-----------------------
anyhow - what I think might be easiest -
is for me to scan the various pages of the FSM and email them to you -

with only 8 posts - you probably can't send a Private Message - but try it -

if that doesn't work - put your email here -
but spell it out so "bots" can't pick it up -
then after I have it - "edit" the post and delete it
 
#15 ·
email is fionanbrian at gmail dot com

Got the actuators in, shall I replace the temp door and is there anything special I need to do when popping it in??? Calibration???

Oddly enough, the mode door came with the cam and mounting bracket attached, as did the last one i bought, are they trying to tell us something by including the cam with it, the last one I got, I just removed the actuator from the cam and bracket and went from there.

Not doing anything until you give me the go-ahead

Thanks - Brian
 
#16 ·
Well, more information, had not heard anything in a while, so I got bold and replaced the temp acutator, it was pretty much preset dead center between hot and cold when I put it in, turned the key with intent of cycling or "exercising" the actuator, the temp was set at 60, acutator moved to cold position, turned it to Hot and it moved full hot.... and there it remained, no matter what I did, I messed around with it about 10 seconds, and turned off the key, removed actuator and the little motor was getting pretty warm. this got me to thinking, took the old "broken" actuator, put it in, turned the key and sure enough, it moved to full hot, so its still responding to commands, seems like the command is "go full hot and stay there"

I got the used AC Controller in, am guessing that I need to pull some specs off of the wires to see what is going on and or get ready to replace the AC Controller, would that be a good guess???

Hope you are still looking at this basscat, I put my email up one post and am looking forward to your next instructions.

All the best - Brian
 
#17 ·
Well, more information, had not heard anything in a while, so I got bold and replaced the temp acutator, it was pretty much preset dead center between hot and cold when I put it in, turned the key with intent of cycling or "exercising" the actuator, the temp was set at 60, acutator moved to cold position, turned it to Hot and it moved full hot.... and there it remained, no matter what I did, I messed around with it about 10 seconds, and turned off the key, removed actuator and the little motor was getting pretty warm. this got me to thinking, took the old "broken" actuator, put it in, turned the key and sure enough, it moved to full hot, so its still responding to commands, seems like the command is "go full hot and stay there"

I got the used AC Controller in, am guessing that I need to pull some specs off of the wires to see what is going on and or get ready to replace the AC Controller, would that be a good guess???

Hope you are still looking at this basscat, I put my email up one post and am looking forward to your next instructions.

All the best - Brian
 
#18 ·
OK, got to thinking and did some testing, pulled out the test meter, tinkered with the rear mode door actuator and tested the wires and figured out what you were talking about when you discussed the voltage changing the actuator position, so I did some measurements on the Temp Door and the Mode Door actuator wires and guess what, no changes whatsoever on any wire when changing door positions using the controller, Readings are as follows and I don't know if this will help you, but like I said, none of the readings change when changing the settings.

Mode Door
Wire Voltage
Grey 5.21
Yellow 4.20
Blank Space
Yellow .078
Yellow 2.44
Brown 11.72

Temp Door
Wire Voltage
Grey 5.21
Lt Blue 4.34
Blank Space
Yellow .080
Blue 4.80
Brown 11.72

SOOOO, I would be guessing that the controller went bad, or is there another route that I should look at, both failed at pretty much the same time.

And let me guess, pulling that controller is going to be a pain in the butt huh

Thats all for now, waiting for information, all the best - Brian
 
#19 ·
Follow up to the chaos, End state, the Caddy won and I lost - Got busy, replaced the entire controller module, replaced the Temp actuator and the Mode Actuator, reset everything and tried to "exercise the actuators" the end result is I now have good Mode Control, but the Temp cycles to hot and stays there, so I finally got pissed off, fabricated a little arm that drops down to the right of the gas pedal, removed the temp actuator and now I have manual control over the temp, hell I live in AZ so the odds of me needing heat are pretty slim 116 degrees today, and I can officially say that I have given up, manual control it is for the time being until I get some motivation restored, Thank you to all who assisted me in this process and at least I got most of the problems solved regarding this mess.

All the best! - Brian
 
#20 ·
----------------------------------
hi Brian - I was wondering what happened -
hadn't heard anything for a while -

so - the original problem with the non-functioning mode door
is resolved - and now works correctly -
but it took a mode door actuator -
and you also replaced the AC controller with a used one -

but you have no control over the temp? -
and that's with a new blend door actuator -

I wonder if the used AC controller is defective -
can you change the passenger side temp?
 
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