Can anyone help me with removing the door lock motor (actuator) on the front passenger door? Iíve read through the applicable sections in the 93 Seville service manual but Iím still a little lost. It looks like the door lock assembly is located behind a metal plate that is held in by rivets, according to the manual. Iíve never encountered these rivets before and they look like a pain to remove. Hereís a picture of where Iím at;
Ranger, thanks for replying (I was hoping you'd chirp in). I know your knowledge about these cars is levels above mine, but could you explain, even if a brief summary, how I remove the metal plate and get to the motor. The manual does mention drilling out the rivets; where do I find replacements?
Automobile(s): White Diamond '03 DHS (with floor shift)
Re: Help Needed: Remove Door Lock Motor
I'm not sure if you have to remove the plate or just drill out the rivets and fish it out through the hole above it. To replace it you'll either have to pop rivet it or use screws and nuts. If you go that route, use lock washers and Loctite on the threads to prevent the nuts from loosening due to door slamming etc.
Making some progress here, albeit slowly. I did manage to remove the motor without having to take out the entire lock assembly or the deflector shield. It wasn’t easy, but by wiggling the assembly around you can get at the torx screws and remove the motor.
Next step is hitting the salvage yard. I’m planning to pull a motor from a 92-97 Seville, but will older/newer Seville’s work, and also how about Devilles and Eldorados (are their door lock motors compatible?). I don't believe left and right, front or back are interchangeable.
Heading out there tomorrow. Any way I can verify if the motor functions properly while in the yard? I'm wondering if I would feel tension or resistance in the motor's arm moving it up and down (the arm on my broken motor feels limp, i.e. no tension).
Happy to say this was a 100% success and can confirm that it IS possible to replace the door lock actuator without removing the shield. Not easy, especially if you have large hands, but it can be done. No one else has detailed the procedure despite my finding numerous threads inquiring into aspects of the process so Iíll give it a shot. Having the FSM will greatly aid in doing this (or any other work for that matter).
I pulled one from a 94 Seville at the yard for $15; tested it before installation to verify it worked. Other models and generations may work, but for simplicity Iíd stick with 92-97 Sevilleís. I connected the cables first, YMMV. When installing, I needed to make sure the lock was in the unlocked position while aligning the teeth on the lock with the teeth on the door lock actuator. To do this without removing the assembly is difficult; you need view what is going on through the lock slot on the door. Once that is accomplished you need to secure the actuator to the assembly via the T10 torx screws. Replace the three larger exterior torx screws that secure the entire assembly to the door. Lastly, you need to snap the motors plastic arm with the rubber bumper into the slot on the lock, otherwise the switches wonít work properly. This is difficult because you canít see the components and you need to feel around, also be careful you donít damage the bumper. This process is indicated in the second (orange arrow indicating location of bumper and slot) and third picture.