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eldorado interior panels

22K views 77 replies 16 participants last post by  Douden 
#1 ·
I have a 1997 eldorado with a green interior and the rear side panels are warping and seperating from the sides of the interior- does anyone know if these parts are available nos/factory or am i doomed to the junkyards??
thank you for any information and help
 
#34 ·
Here you go.

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sorry about the last post. Can't re-size my photo of the green interior.

Can anyone detail the type of adhesive used to re-secure the interior vinyl door trim to the door panel? I know someone said two part epoxy but will rubber cement work? Hot melt may melt the vinyl, don't you think?

Repairing the section of the door by the window control that pulls away.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I have the same problem with my 97 Eldorado. Quite a while ago I asked about this problem and the very knowledgeable former member known as the guru gave me an extensive reply. Unfortunatly all of his posts have been deleted but I was able to find this reply. I still have not attempted to fix mine but it is still a project for someday.


rbatt2
12-29-04, 04:34 PM
Hi,
I have got the same problem on my 97 Eldorado with only 25.000 miles on it. I have currently removed the rear quarter trim panels, and are uncertain what to do with them. Using the wrong glue or procedure might make it worse to repair them correctly later, so any experience with this task would be apprechiated. Can anyone confirm if there is a service bulletin on this subject ?

There is indeed a TSB from Cadillac addressing warping/separating of the plastic trim pieces around the side and rear windows in the rear passenger compartment of the last generation Eldorado. I believe there is a kit available from GM to re-anchor/re-mount these trim pieces which are quite large. The trim in my 2002 Eldorado was replaced under warranty by the dealer when the car was about a year old due to this issue.

I hope this may be of help to you.
 
#7 ·
I have removed the entire interior of my 2001 Eldo, seats, console, carpets,door panels, trim pieces, dash,and rear panels, along with the rear shelf and light. Everything except the headliner. As I did it I ordered all new clips as the ones I removed were usually damaged. Also, you have to be vigilant and quite knowledgeable as there is so much nylon/plastic, that you can destroy without a forewarning.

Once you have everything out, CLEAN, do the leather treatment, and photograph EVERYTHING in EVERY WAY!!!

I Dynamated the floor pan and part of the side walls - man, this car has a quiet ride now.

You will find the rear panels are solid, and made with vinyl over foam and plastic or perhaps fibeglass. Fix what needs fixing aand when you replace everything, take your time, do it in the correct order (RTFM), and again, use new clips. And photograph every step from every angle. Digital photos are cheap, and you will will reveiw them often if you keep the car.

Plastics (remember the Graduate?) shrink with age, harden when exposed to thinks like body oil, evaporate and crumble. Leather will last forever unless mistreated, exposed to heat, aand UV light. So use treatments regularly to help prolong the enevitable.

I noticed some guys at cars shows were using "near leather" of something like that which is cheaper that leather and is man-made, for their door panels and trim. It's claim to fame is that is lasts a long time, is not affected by the elments like vinyl or naugahide, and is easy to maintain. Just need to find someone that can match the interior panels in the Eldos and Sevilles with this stuff.

Happy Trails. Good luck with your interior.
 
#12 ·
Those clips breaking are a PITA. You would think that the engineers of a high line luxury car such as a Eldo or any Caddy would have came up with a better solution than those cheap _ss plastic clips to hold the door panel on, because eventually they are going to break by the doors being so wide and heavy. My passenger-side clips are broken on the bottom of my door, and I haven't decided what to use to fix it.
 
#14 ·
For my Eldorado which I'ved owned since it was new, all the problems I have... Door panel clips, rear interior panels coming unglued, cruise control not working, Electronic ride struts and shocks failing, and the sunroof not stopping when opening / closing are all known problems with this car, some of which have GM notices.
As you said, for a high end luxury car, they could have done a better job building it.

For your door panels, there are some other posts in this forum about repairing them, including someone who used metal L brackets since they can be secured to the base where the clips break off. I also like Lifer's suggestion of using velcro and will see if I can put some on the bottom to secure the panels. Someone also use Levelor plastic hooks.
 
#15 ·
Here is an update to using Velcro to hold things like door panel and interior item. First of all, it is an easy fix, it does hold, well, and if you did not know where it was placed, you might say some non-church-going words when you tried to remove the panel normally.

With that said, I discovered a minor problem with the heavy duty Velcro hold the bottom and non-hinge side of my driver's door. I used the adhesive that was already on the Velcro strips when I installed it. It made the job easy, and a secondary adhesive is not necessary, as we are not carrying a hanging, weighted load, just holding things together. When my car is out in the hot sun (this is Texas and our summers are above average) the adhesive drips out onto the carpet retainer, leaving a sticky mess. I used some GOOP adhesive remover on a paper towel and it cleaned up. But it did it all summer. The door panel is still secure, does not rattle or flap around, and I have not removed the panel to check the results. This will be done in the spring when I have time - to take the interior completely out again and do some mods and more Dynamating.
 
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#17 ·
We'll, I repaired my door panels and went with making new hooks using 1" x 1" x 1/2" metal L brackets and #4 x 3/4" sheet metal screws from Lowe's verus using velcro.

You need to have skills, time, and patience to fabricate them. Once you make the first one, the others become easier. The plastic in the door at the base where the hook broke off is thick enough to secure them. I also put some shrink tubing on the hook part to keep the metal on metal from rubbing.
The doors are much tighter and secure verus being held on by just 2 screws.

I've posted some pictures here and can answer any questions.
 

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#18 ·
Lifer, How difficult was it to remove the rear interior panels? I would like to re-glue mine but probably have to remove them so I can properly glue the vinyl to the backing. You also mentioned about getting new clips. Are those available at the local parts store? Any suggestions or pictures would be appreciated. I'm a do it yourselfer and having the knowledge to properly remove and reinstall them would be good so I don't permanently break anything. Also, what is Dynamating? I've haven't heard of this? Thanks, Jim
 
#20 ·
I have been away from my home computer for a few weeks, but I have some information on the rear panel removal I will share, hopefully next week.

Until then, basically, you remove the rear seat lower, then upper (remove trunk panel to access the two screws with a deep 10mm socket), then the carpet retainers (one screw in the rear of each, and pull up, plastic clips holding), then remove the "white knuckle" grips on the side by the rear windows. The covers pop off with a flat tool and then there are screws. Then work the panels out by easing the clips holding it in.

One tip - remove the passenger seat to make more room to move around.

Be careful and take your time. I was a watch maker for a few years and I knew a secret regarding watches that applies to cars. The parts come apart in order, and can only go back the same way. Each part is unique and goes back together in order. There are some minor exceptions, but the interior works like a puzzle. Remove this before you remove that.
 
#21 ·
Thank you for the tips and information. It sounds like a big job for a weekend.

For removing the rear seat lower, I assume you push down then toward the back of the car to release the seat from the hooks to get things started.

For the clips that hold the panels in place, are they similar to the type that hold door panels on where you need that special tool to ease them out? The pins have a stud on them with layered fins to catch behind the hole they insert to so the tool helps ease them out to prevent from tearing them off the panel. Also, are there any screws under the square panels on the arm rests similar to the power window button panels on the doors I need to worry about?
 
#26 ·
I got my best deal on Amazon for Dynamating. It is a heavy tar-based-like material with an adhesive face and a reflective aluminum side. It cuts with a pair of scissors, easy to put down, and does two main things. It stops panels from vibrating and sending various frequency sounds (think of your door - a big drum; this tends to reduce or stop the vibration) and it reflects heat, making the interior more comfortable. I find it reduce road and tire noise to a very low level, and the deep carpeting, headliner, and upholstery absorbs the rest (leather does tend reflect more than absorb...). One trick is to get a wall paper seam tool - its a wooden roller on a handle, inexpensive item, and roll this over the sheeting as you apply it. Some purists even put an aluminum tape over the seams for a true locked out system. :bigroll:
 
#28 ·
After everything is removed from the cabin - seats, console, side panels, carpet retainers, carpet, you clean the floor rear good with soap and water ( DO NOT FLOOD IT, WIPE IT DOWN TO CLEAN THE SURFACE) and then go over every thing when dry with some mineral spirits or alcohol. Again, don't flood, only wipe it down. I will at this point assume (as in mine) there is no rust or flaking paint. If there is, repair that first. When you have good surfaces, apply Dynamat to them and then reinstall the part. What your trying to do is create a new layer of sound retardant under the carpet and the rear seat area. The same with the inside of the doors and trunk. When the interior components are installed, there should be no Dynamat showing, only working.
 
#35 ·
Rubber cement will not hold, I used Gel CA on my door panels where the vinyl was loose. I also used quick set JB weld around the door lights. Used small spring clamps, c clamps and wood to spread the pressure where ness. Only did a couple months ago, but seems to be holding well.
 
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