2000 ETC factory amplifer? location and validation
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Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, 2000 ETC factory amplifer? location and validation in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; Hello everyone, i am in the process of upgrading my stereo, i was going to get a wiring harness i ...
  1. #1
    brad101010 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    2000 ETC factory amplifer? location and validation

    Hello everyone, i am in the process of upgrading my stereo, i was going to get a wiring harness i and i see there are 2 different kinds, one that is designed with the factory amplifer in mind and one with out. Now my question is this: Does my stock Cadillac elerado etc (2000) have a factory amplifer, how can i verify if it does, where would it be located? Thank for all your help

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    mtflight's Avatar
    mtflight is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    Typically ETC has the BOSE head unit, which means BOSE speakers. Each speaker has it's own amplifier. The sound is processed by the RIM (Rear integration module) which is located behind the rear seat. The whole system is proprietary.



    What exactly are you trying to do?

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    brad101010 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    I am just trying to att a double din touch screen radio....here is kit i was thinking about buying from e-bay with the dash kit and the wiring harness

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/RADIO-REPLAC.../400257574816/

    I think this will work from what i can tell, let me know what you think

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    mtflight's Avatar
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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    The face plate will work (the flat one that I used requires cutting some plastic behind the stock unit). I'm not sure the GMOS-06 will work. Best bet would be to call Metra tech support and ask them.

    I went the roundabout way that works. See my thread http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...t-keeping.html

    I believe your 2000 has exactly the same hardware as mine.

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    brad101010 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    thanks for the info, looks like i am in over my head on this one, might want to pay somone to get this done

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    brad101010 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    in retro spect, the look u have is exactly what i am looking for, would u be willing to talk on the phone about all this, got lots of question, i will ready your forum in full tonight

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    mtflight's Avatar
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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    I think for all to benefit it would be best to ask questions on that thread and I'll answer. That's what the forum is for.

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    brad101010 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    who is Metra tech support, is that the company you used? i have installed a basic after market deck, amp and sub in other cars. It this install the same? Do i need to worry about killing the ingition system since the car does have that feature if the stock deck is removed? what dash kid did you use

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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    Quote Originally Posted by mtflight View Post
    I think for all to benefit it would be best to ask questions on that thread and I'll answer. That's what the forum is for.
    1. Could you be a bit more clear on the pin-out instructions in making the cable you created? Are you using the 16 wires prescribed in the Metra Instruction for the 95-2005B, page 8 to create this cable? What about the RCA plugs?
    METRA / EIA WIRING CODE
    12V Ignition / Acc. . . . . . . . . . Red
    12V Batt / Memory. . . . . . . . . Yellow
    Ground. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Black*
    Power Antenna. . . . . . . . . . . . Blue
    Amp Turn-On . . . . . . . . . . . . . Blue / White
    Amp Ground. . . . . . . . . . . . . . Black / White
    Illumination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Orange
    Dimmer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Orange / White
    Right Front (+) . . . . . . . . . . . . Gray
    Right Front (-). . . . . . . . . . . . . Gray/ Black
    Left Front (+) . . . . . . . . . . . . . White
    Left Front (-). . . . . . . . . . . . . . White / Black
    Right Rear (+) . . . . . . . . . . . . Violet
    Right Rear (-) . . . . . . . . . . . . . Violet / Black
    Left Rear (+) . . . . . . . . . . . . . Green
    Left Rear (-) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Green / Black

    2. Does the new 32-pin plug fit into the new Nav unit?

    3. You said the following: "My new Sony boots in 10x less time, and I am not exaggerating at all." Which Sony?

    "The THEFTLOCK is printed in cardstock, to scale, so it fits over nav." What is this for????

    4. Since you moved the original Bose HU to the trunc, how did you wire it up?

    So many questions....

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    mtflight's Avatar
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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    Great questions! I made a map with the Factory Service Manual of the wires needed, and will post it here. The Metra table above is not applicable for BOSE head unit (hu). A safe bet is to replicate every wire, but that's not necessary.

    What I made is basically an extension from the front of the car, to the trunk, to relocate the stock BOSE head unit. Then I intercepted the audio in that goes from the BOSE hu to the RIM (rear integration module).Essentially this replaces the audio that would come from the head unit, with audio of your choice (new head unit).

    The new head unit is plugged in according to installation instructions (ground, constant 12V, switched 12V, etc) and most of these come from the harness I created. Only the low-level audio out signal (which is really the output to an amp) is used as output of the new head unit/nav. The speaker out harness is not used. I put in RCA inputs on the harness extension, and this is where the RCA pre-amp out audio of the new deck plugs in. The only exception to the wiring for the replacement stereo, is the switched 12V source, which came from the Retained Accessory Power wire that feeds the window motors (shuts off when door is opened, just like factory head unit). This allows one to listen to the radio with the key off for 10 minutes or less, if a door is opened.

    2) 32 pin plug does not go into new nav unit. It only extends existing wiring from the dashboard to the trunk. Creating this extension is preferable to hacking factory wires.

    3) I returned the SONY nav because it used Tom Tom navigation, but without any access to traffic data or other features like downloading character voices. I now have a Pioneer APP radio that runs off my iPhone 4s.

    I made a fake cardstock stereo cover, to resemble the factory stereo, as a theft deterrent (someone peeking through window would hopefully think there's nothing special about my stereo, and move to the next car).

    4) see #2

    Keep em coming. I'll look for that wiring chart and post it soon.

    ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by brad101010 View Post
    who is Metra tech support, is that the company you used? i have installed a basic after market deck, amp and sub in other cars. It this install the same? Do i need to worry about killing the ingition system since the car does have that feature if the stock deck is removed? what dash kid did you use
    Your original post referred to an interface kit (GMOS-06) manufactured by Metra/Axxess. They make an interface box that plugs into factory harness and gives you wires that you use to plug in your replacement stereo. I don't think the Eldo is listed as supported by the GMOS-06 which is why I recommended contacting them to inquire.

    If you make this extension to relocate the factory head unit to the trunk, you don't need to mess with the ingnition. You would simply be creating an aux-audio in and an extension to relocate head unit and piggy backing your new stereo into that harness. That's why I say it's really simple. The dash kit is for the Catera, however it is flush with the stock stereo, and there's plastic behind the stereo that would need to be cut off/trimmed or the new stereo won't go all the way in (the reason the "correct" face plate on your kit link, bulges out).

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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    What I made is basically an extension from the front of the car, to the trunk, to relocate the stock BOSE head unit. Then I intercepted the audio in that goes from the BOSE hu to the RIM (rear integration module). Essentially this replaces the audio that would come from the head unit, with audio of your choice (new head unit).

    Need lots more detail here.

    The only exception to the wiring for the replacement stereo, is the switched 12V source, which came from the Retained Accessory Power wire that feeds the window motors (shuts off when door is opened, just like factory head unit).

    I am familiar with this. Is there a lead for this in the existing wiring?

  13. #12
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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation






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    mtflight's Avatar
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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    Below is a diagram of the current BOSE setup/layout in the Eldorado, ETC (as well as pre-1998 Seville w BOSE). Credit goes to N*Caddy who put it together (and actually installed a BOSE unit from scratch in a non-BOSE car--quite the feat! Stock to BOSE conversion ).




    Credit to N*Caddy for the illustration. Please note the audio connections from the Head Unit.



    The image above was done with N*Caddy's image, except modified to show how *I* wired the aftermarket head unit. Take note of the differences in L+R audio channels at the head unit(s). You can ignore everything below the head unit because that all remains the same (I didn't replace the sound system, just added a head unit).

    This is just to give a general idea. I will post the pin-outs of the wiring harness later.

    The extension I made is basically one female and one male 32 pin factory style plug, with 17 ft of wire in between, connecting the necessary wires to relocate the unit. So in essence the unit operates as usual, with the exception of the audio which is bypassed at the location of the new head unit.
    vincentm and vincentm like this.

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    brad101010 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    I am sorry, i am confused. Why is the stock head unit relocated to the trunk. Why cant you buy a wiring harness and pug and play type set up for this car? Is the stock unit still in the curit to keep the stock chimes? Now i am even more scared to touch the car. Looks like i am gonna pay somone to sort all the out.

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    mtflight's Avatar
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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    Quote Originally Posted by brad101010 View Post
    I am sorry, i am confused. Why is the stock head unit relocated to the trunk. Why cant you buy a wiring harness and pug and play type set up for this car? Is the stock unit still in the curit to keep the stock chimes? Now i am even more scared to touch the car. Looks like i am gonna pay somone to sort all the out.
    Buying a harness for plug and play is okay on the non-BOSE units. The issue has to do with the head unit not being typical. It is more of a remote controller for the RIM (radio integration module) that is behind the rear seat. So you need something to control the RIM. Metra/Axxess makes a box called the GMOS-06 and similar other interface boxes that simulate this effect, and also have chimes. I am not aware of any such harness for the Eldo with BOSE, but that is something that can be researched. I used this GMOS-06 on my Deville DHS with mixed results. I was so dissatisfied that I ended up selling it and putting the head unit in the glovebox, to do pretty much what I've done here. The difference is the huge glove box in the Deville vs the small one in the Eldo... hence the trunk.

    I used an aluminum brace to hold the head unit to the top of the trunk, under the high mounted stoplight, between the speakers. I'll snap some pics. From there I am able to control the volume, turn it off and on, change DSP effects. I am also able to control the volume via the steering wheel controls, which as I mentioned above, really are controlling the RIM in the trunk.

    Attached is the pin-out diagram for the harness. It's not a difficult job, although it is somewhat time consuming.
    Attached Files

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