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Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, 2000 ETC factory amplifer? location and validation in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; In your parts list you say to obtain two 32-pin connectors, one male, and one female for the cable that ...
  1. #16
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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    In your parts list you say to obtain two 32-pin connectors, one male, and one female for the cable that connects the original HU, now in the trunk to the original cable. According to web research, the female connector is a micropak 100 series # 12110115. OK. Research for the equivalent male, a 32-pin unit - no find.

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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    I just did a search on eBay for gm 32 pin and had many results both male and female. You may need more than one of each to complete the 15 pins.

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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    Quote Originally Posted by mtflight View Post
    I just did a search on eBay for gm 32 pin and had many results both male and female. You may need more than one of each to complete the 15 pins.
    A little more study, and I found that the 1211015 32-pin Delphi Connector mats with 12129342, 12129347, and 12129645 - each with the same dimensions, and each a male 32-pin connector. All are relatively inexpensive.

    Next up - a layout of the wiring question.

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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    I ran the harness toward the passenger side, under the dashboard (remove the black plastic cover above footwell), then under the side plastic sill through the corner of the back seat (unscrew from the trunk side), then under the rear shelf, where I used 1 aluminum bracket and screwed it in with self-tapping screws.

    The next step is to see what head unit you want, and see what it needs as far as connections, and tap into the available ones from the harness itself (piggyback). One option is to use the antenna lead as the Accessory (because as long as the BOSE head unit is on, the antenna will be on and activated). The problem there, is if you need to lower the antenna, you would have to turn off the BOSE head unit in the trunk.

    This is the reason I ran a wire from the power motor wire feeding the passenger side window. I had originally used the cigarette lighter, which shuts off with RAP after 10 minutes, but the nav would turn on before the car (upon unlock/lights on) and shut off 10 minutes after I got out of the car--so I went back and tapped into the window feed.

    I set up a switch that interrupts the antenna on, next to the parking brake simulator switch, so that I can raise and lower the antenna manually. I don't remember the specific wiring but it's easy to figure out if I sit down and think about it and make a diagram.

    I'm still down for meeting and talking about it in person.

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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    If you guys do meet up, can someone please provide a thorough walk through of this? I plan on adding a Pioneer double din unit to my setup, ive my factory HU and want to re-locate it to the trunk as well.

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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    What I made is basically an extension from the front of the car, to the trunk, to relocate the stock BOSE head unit. Then I intercepted the audio in that goes from the BOSE hu to the RIM (rear integration module).Essentially this replaces the audio that would come from the head unit, with audio of your choice (new head unit).


    OK, I understand the path you took to get the new cable you created, with 32-pin plugs on each end (one for the original plug going into the HU in the original location, and one for the HU now in the trunk). This is easy for me. Been there, don that, have pictures, did it while freezing my tail off two Februarys ago.

    In studying the pin-out and your drawing I have figured to following - which could be wrong:

    Attachment 83793

    Basically, you take the F1 power and the E16 ground to the new head (whatever it may be,) for power and ground.

    You tap the E5 for lights from the rheostat, F3 for the antenna power, and E12 and F15 for the audio feed.

    One option is to use the antenna lead as the Accessory (because as long as the BOSE head unit is on, the antenna will be on and activated). The problem there, is if you need to lower the antenna, you would have to turn off the BOSE head unit in the trunk.

    Now I see that instead of tapping the F3, you set it up to run to the accessory port of the new unit, thus disconnecting it from the HU.

    Then you said:set up a switch that interrupts the antenna on, next to the parking brake simulator switch, so that I can raise and lower the antenna manually. I don't remember the specific wiring but it's easy to figure out if I sit down and think about it and make a diagram.


    So the Bose HU is left on, but since the audio is now from the new head, it is only there to make the PCM happy.

    Doesn't the accessory power work for this?

    the reason I ran a wire from the power motor wire feeding the passenger side window. I had originally used the cigarette lighter, which shuts off with RAP after 10 minutes, but the nav would turn on before the car (upon unlock/lights on) and shut off 10 minutes after I got out of the car--so I went back and tapped into the window feed.


    I understood from the wiring diagram that the RAP was the power feed for the F1.

    By the way, did you also tap the parking break for the new head?

    I'm still down for meeting and talking about it in person. Yep, me too. I am trying to become enlightened before we meet so I don't sound like I'm too electrically challenged when we talk. Mechanics I know, and I can wire a car of the 50s ans 60s real well (I could take my 68 Cadillac apart and put ist back together with no left over parts) but this Eldo and my 06 STS are real scarey when it comes to electronics.

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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    Tapping the parking brake signal was not a good idea, because the AppRadio requires application of brake, then release, then application again. In my Eldo, the automatic parking release, is putting the car in gear. The hidden lever is well out of the way and apply, remove, apply is too troublesome.

    Each head unit is different but I think the one I have now just required grounding it. So I basically connected the parking brake lead to a ground with a switch.

    F1 looks like RAP power, but it's a constant 12V.

    As far as the antenna goes, I ended up using the new head unit to control it. (I think the other end of the antenna, from HU, feed from the HU could be used as RAP/accessory, while F1 could be constant--which it is.).


    BTW N*Caddy suggested E16 as the better ground.

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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    I just realized I have not addressed the RCA plugs. Where are these tapped?

    "As far as the antenna goes, I ended up using the new head unit to control it. (I think the other end of the antenna, from HU, feed from the HU could be used as RAP/accessory, while F1 could be constant--which it is.)."

    More on this please.

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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    E12 and F15 are your right and left + and E13 and F14 are the right and left -.

    You hook them up to RCA males and couple the RCA females from your head unit to it.



    Regarding the antenna, there will be two ends in your harness: one goes into the car wiring and the other one comes from the BOSE HU (your new head-unit is sandwiched in-between).

    When the Bose HU is ON, the antenna feed is ON. You use that as Accessory power (it is 12V).

    This way the new head unit can have its own antenna control (My AppRadio does not have an antenna lead, but it has an Amp-ON that I used as antenna power-ON).

    I put a switch between the AppRadio's remote Amp-ON, and the antenna itself, to allow me to move the antenna up (ON) and down (OFF).


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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    I have read, pondered, and digested MTFlight's comments and want to post my latest understanding, with some additional questions. The new head unit is not yet decided upon. I liked the Sony NXV-660 BT until a review exposed some features that have poor user interface. I have looked at the Pioneer APP, but I don't need all the smart phone distractions while driving. Navigation, XM radio, and the weather channel has kept me amused for a few years now, and that's all really need.

    OK, here is my interpretation of the set up of wiring so far. Tell me if I missed anything or pointed something in the wrong direction.

    Attachment 83956

    Questions:
    1. If this a navigation unit, it must require a GPS antenna. What did you do here on the Eldorado?

    2. Can you control the CD player in the trunk from the new unit?

    3. I did not use E14 and E15, which are bare wire drains for the speaker circuits. That's because I don't know what the drains are or what they do. I Googled them, but NOJOY. Can not find anything to explain it. Do I need to consider them (the drains)?

    4. What I did find were many YouTubes on Parking Break By Passes, and I found cool wire connectors and taps from a company called Posi-Products.

    5. Did I approach the E5 wire for the dash lights correctly?

    Thanks in advance. Have a fluffy week-end. I am open on Sunday as the car shows are done for a while.

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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    This is an impressive summary. I haven't compared the letters/numbers to the PDF I posted earlier.

    One consideration will be the requirements of the head unit you decide to go with. I didn't think anything was wrong with the SONY except for the lack of voices and traffic data, and the price. That said I have an HD Radio box that I purchased for it but the metal box scratched during install, so I was unable to return it. This was a cheap shot on my behalf bc it's not XM radio as you mentioned.

    I think all that is missing is to figure out the install instructions from the head unit of your choice, and to correspondingly tap into this harness as needed (ground, antenna, etc).

    As far as GPS antenna goes, all the units I've owned come with the antenna... they also had a bluetooth microphone. I place the microphone right below the rearviewmirror (double sided 3m tape), and the GPS antenna under the dashboard pad.

    Some of these units require VSS wire as well as reverse (the lead to the reverse light will work). Rear backup camera too, can use the reverse lamp as a power. Those instructions are all dependent on the hardware you go by.

    Alternatively to the window wire for RAP, you can use the antenna lead as you pictured and described.

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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    MTFLIGHT:
    Now that I have identified the connectors, could you tell me what pins, male and female you used to make the proper connection?

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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    Quote Originally Posted by Lifer View Post
    MTFLIGHT:
    Now that I have identified the connectors, could you tell me what pins, male and female you used to make the proper connection?
    I meant to answer your previous question about the drain wires. I didn't know very well what they are for but since the stock head unit has them I included them in the extension as regular 18 gauge wire along with the rest.

    As far as identifying the connectors... what do you mean pins male and female to make connections? You simply match the positions. Each connector will have them clearly identified. E15 on one will match E 15 on the other, for instance.

    Was that the question or did I misunderstand it.

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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    Quote Originally Posted by mtflight View Post
    I meant to answer your previous question about the drain wires. I didn't know very well what they are for but since the stock head unit has them I included them in the extension as regular 18 gauge wire along with the rest.

    As far as identifying the connectors... what do you mean pins male and female to make connections? You simply match the positions. Each connector will have them clearly identified. E15 on one will match E 15 on the other, for instance.

    Was that the question or did I misunderstand it.
    The wires are attached to pins that slide into the plastic connectors. I see a variety of pins available, all sizes and shapes. However, there must be specific pins to capture the mates that these plugs connect to.

    Ah, the drain wires. I am familiar with + and -. Where do the drains get attached? For example, E12 and E13 (+ and - for the RCA jack for the Left Front Low Level Audio Signal) - where would the E14 Drain wire get attached - or do you just include it in the bundle running from the BOSE HU to the connector to the RIM?

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    Re: 2000 etc factory amplifer? location and validation

    Quote Originally Posted by Lifer View Post
    The wires are attached to pins that slide into the plastic connectors. I see a variety of pins available, all sizes and shapes. However, there must be specific pins to capture the mates that these plugs connect to.
    There are only male pins on one side--the end that mates with factory harness in the dashboard

    The other end, mating with the stock head unit in the trunk (or wherever) has female pins.

    All male pins are the same, and they are identified on the plug (and on the PDF map) by location. One row is E the other is F and they have 16 positions in the row.
    The same is true of the female "pins." They are all the same regardless of row (E,F)or column(1-16).



    Quote Originally Posted by Lifer View Post
    Ah, the drain wires. I am familiar with + and -. Where do the drains get attached? For example, E12 and E13 (+ and - for the RCA jack for the Left Front Low Level Audio Signal) - where would the E14 Drain wire get attached - or do you just include it in the bundle running from the BOSE HU to the connector to the RIM?
    The drains I just extended in the bundle. i didn't do anything with them as far as audio left and right. I'm not sure of whether this was necessary or not, but I figured it couldn't hurt and better safe to include them than sorry for not including them after all the work of putting the harness together.

    As far as mounting the new nav/head unit, the top bolt holes on the stock factory bracket matched the top bolt of my AppRadio. I am certain with a little ingenuity you can find a way to do the same with another head unit since they are most probably "universal."


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