My 1999 STS is running very hot. But the thing is it only runs hot at stop lights. If Ikeptp it about 2200 RPM, it doesn't run hot. I'm told that is not a head gasket problem. Can anyone help?
My car does the opposite. When I accelerate heavily, it cools down. The higher the RPMs (even sitting still), the more I can cool it down. When I'm at the stoplight, if it starts to get hot (past the 1 O'clock position), I put it in neutral and idle the engine up to about 2500, and it cools it down. But the minute I take my foot off the accelerator, it begins to creep back up, and will eventually go into red if I allow it.Thats not a typical symptom of a headgasket issue, thats more likely an airflow issue caused by fans not running, or a slipping waterpump belt. Headgasket issues mostly show up when the engine is heavily loaded, like when driving up a long hill, or when under heavy acceleration.
I'm not sure what or where the condenser is. Is there some manual I can download from somewhere that's not an arm/leg? I'm not a mechanic. And the terms and phrases you guys use often are ones I need to learn.Try flushing the dirt and dead bugs out of the condenser.
I don't know where these parts are.Pull out the hose that is attached to the top nipple of the coolant tank. Point it towards to the coolant filler neck and start the car. If you have a steady coolant flow, it's good. If not, either the hose and/or the hollow bolt at the other end needs to be cleaned.
I add a little about every two weeks if that.Is the coolant level going down?
And the temp does climb when climbing the driveway
And the heat will stop blowing hot air as well, but will return to blowing hot air when the temp goes back down.
All signs of a failed HG, especially the gurgling sound. That's "air" (or exhaust gases) in the cooling system. Check the purge line as suggested. If it is clear, then get a block test kit and check for exhaust gases in the surge tank.Also, when I stop the engine and am sitting inside the car quiet, I can hear fluid gurgling as if it's moving from behind the dashboard somewhere.
I posted a video on YouTube of what I was looking at. I took the surge tank hose off and started the car. No fluid came out. Also, as I followed that hose, it didn't lead to a hollow nut seemingly. The You Tube video should be ready to view soon.Mark C said:Do Not put any magic head gasket sealant into the coolant, they do not work on northstar engines and will just cause you problems if it turns out to not be a headgasket issue.
Check the tension on the water pump drive belt. Its under the black metal shroud just to the right of the oil dip stick. You can remove the cover with a 10mm wrench to inspect the belt, the pulleys, and the tensioner. I had a tensioner go bad and the car would heatup at low rpms becasue the belt was slipping and the pump wasn't turning fast enough, but at higher rpms it spun fast enough to move enough water thru the radiator to keep the car cool.
Did you go back and look at the fans? There should be 2 fans behind the radiator (engine side), none on the front of the radiator (grille side). If someone added and auxiliary fan at least make sure its blowing the air thru the radiator and not sucking it out (working backwards). I'd probably get rid of it because its blocking air flow thru the radiator if its not running, and if its running the wrong way it definately is affecting the air flow thru the radiator. Also put the HVAC in FRONT DEFROST and make sure both fans behind the radiator are running. You can't even begin to cool a car if you don't have proper air flow thru the radiator. Also make sure the upper panel that runs across the top of the radiator is in place, and the lower closure panel between the front bumper and the front subframe is there. These panels force air to go thru the radiator instead of around it when the car is in motion.
Wheres the link?I posted a video on YouTube of what I was looking at. I took the surge tank hose off and started the car. No fluid came out. Also, as I followed that hose, it didn't lead to a hollow nut seemingly. The You Tube video should be ready to view soon.
The block test was negative when this thread started as well.Ranger said:I know, but he wasn't when this thread started.
Thanks for the thoughtfulness Sub. I waited for the roadside assistance dude.submariner409 said:Problem is, he's stuck by the side of the road with a hot engine...................
Can you get some water - from anywhere - and limp to town or home ?? Even drive the car for a mile or so in spurts - in cold weather you should be able to get a fair distance with all accessories off and in "camel mode". You won't hurt the engine if you're careful.
Here's the link:Mark C said:Wheres the link?
The only reason no water would come out of the purge line is if it was totally plugged, the water pump is completely air bound (caused by the first reason) or the water pump is not turning, either from the drive belt missing, or slipping really badly, of the pump itself has failed mechanically. When you pulled that line off, it would have vented any air out of the tube, and it should have started at least spitting air out. You have a better than even chance that the line is plugged. Find out which it is before driving the car further.
I don't have any issues with my coloant system and i always have a gallon of 50/50 coolant and a couple of quarts of oil in the trunk, just in case.