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Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, Interior swap, What modules/parts need to swapped from my car? in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; Originally Posted by MoistCabbage I'm actually wire wheeling and POR 15-ing it right now. I had a chance to go ...
  1. #31
    basscatt's Avatar
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    Re: Interior swap, What modules/parts need to swapped from my car?

    Quote Originally Posted by MoistCabbage View Post
    I'm actually wire wheeling and POR 15-ing it right now. I had a chance to go by the body shop earlier, and we found that there was no real metal damage, just a few minor scaly areas.

    As for the column, I have a new dash complete with wheel and column, what I'm replacing is the ISS. My original one has a clunk and small amount if play, and I have no idea if the "new" one is good or not, so I'm just going to buy the redesigned one, and install it while everything is apart.
    ---------------------
    I'm replacing is the ISS.
    My original one has a clunk and small amount if play

    gotcha -

  2. #32
    PeterS is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Thumbs up Re: Interior swap, What modules/parts need to swapped from my car?

    Hello

    Where did you get the Black Intetior?
    Love to see the Interior when You are Done.
    Post some Pictures.

  3. #33
    MoistCabbage's Avatar
    MoistCabbage is online now Cadillac Owners 10000+ Posts
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    I found the interior at a salvage yard in as near to as new condition as you can imagine. EVERY SINGLE PIECE of the interior cost me $400! I didn't have a truck, so I pre paid, wrote "ENTIRE INTERIOR SOLD" on every window if the car, and left. Came back the next day with a van, and some moron had removed all the seats, but couldn't afford them, and left them all piled on top if each other in the rain... So I paid $250 for what was left, and months later, $150 for the seats out of another car in average shape.

    It's ok though. I'll have them reupholstered in higher grade leather and Alcantara in the next year or so.

    I'll be posting pics as the project continues.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoistCabbage View Post
    I found the interior at a salvage yard in as near to as new condition as you can imagine. EVERY SINGLE PIECE of the interior cost me $400! I didn't have a truck, so I pre paid, wrote "ENTIRE INTERIOR SOLD" on every window if the car, and left. Came back the next day with a van, and some moron had removed all the seats, but couldn't afford them, and left them all piled on top if each other in the rain... So I paid $250 for what was left, and months later, $150 for the seats out of another car in average shape.

    It's ok though. I'll have them reupholstered in higher grade leather and Alcantara in the next year or so.

    I'll be posting pics as the project continues.
    Isnt it awesime when you get parts on a killer deal? I got my rear interior panels, both door panels and my woodgrain steering wheel for $180 and its all in excellent condition

  5. #35
    MoistCabbage's Avatar
    MoistCabbage is online now Cadillac Owners 10000+ Posts
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    Yeah, one of the salvage yards I go to is pretty large, and very cheap. I think they make most of their money on major mechanical parts.

  6. #36
    MoistCabbage's Avatar
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    Got the ISS ordered from Chris. Also needed a blower motor, as mine is starting to get noisy at lower speeds.

    Went out to eat yesterday, and purposely parked in a spot that I could see from the restaurant. It's funny seeing people walking by and up to the car looking at it, and then doing a double take when they see it stripped through the windows. The looks on some of their faces were hilarious.
    Tankboy40 likes this.

  7. #37
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    Re: Interior swap, What modules/parts need to swapped from my car?

    it's even funnier when you have a milk crate in it for a seat... ahh the things you could do before belt laws
    Tankboy40 likes this.

  8. #38
    MoistCabbage's Avatar
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    Lol. Last time I had the seats out, I moved it around with a plastic outdoor chair, with my head and shoulders sticking through the open sunroof.
    basscatt and basscatt like this.

  9. #39
    MoistCabbage's Avatar
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    Removed factory butyl vibration damping, removed residue with xylene, wire brushed and sanded surface rust, cleaned everything with denatured alcohol, and applied rust stopper that my body shop gave me. Supposedly, it's even better than POR 15. It is a bit thicker. The center hump wasn't rusted, but the factory paint was very thin over the factory rust preventative, so I painted that as well.

    Here's where I am now:



    The rust stopper is very shiny, and makes the areas of bare metal look textured, but they are sanded smooth.

  10. #40
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    Looks very good. Thanks for sharing :-)

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoistCabbage
    Lol. Last time I had the seats out, I moved it around with a plastic outdoor chair, with my head and shoulders sticking through the open sunroof.
    LOL....my caddy had a home depot bucket for a seat right now since my seat is out for repadding.

  12. #42
    MoistCabbage's Avatar
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    Ok, the car's back from the body shop, no more leaks. The main culprit was the sunroof drains, which I check every so often, but were clogged again. It's time to cut the pinched ends off so they flow freely. Besides the drains, the sunroof was letting more water in than seemed normal, so I replaced the glass (which includes the seal).

    There was also some water getting into the trunk shell. Butyl around the rear light and HMSL assembly mounting holes took care of that.

    Right now, I'm working on repairing the "new" headliner. Sevilles with sunroofs have a very weak spot in the headliner, between the sunroof opening, and the cutout for the overhead console. When the headliner is in place, it doesn't matter, but the problem is with how the headliner is held up in that area. Two Velcro strips (the type used to hold electronic toll transponders to the windshield, but larger pieces) hold the headliner to the sunroof assemblies' drip tray. The Velcro is very strong, but the adhesive fails over time. Once it does, the headliner sags, and cracks. I see this problem on LOTS of these cars.

    You can see how thin the area is in the picture. Headliner fabric peeled back on the backside of the panel, 2 thin, precisely shaped pieces of fiberglass mat applied:



    That should hold it. The most important part is to make sure the headliner is supported in the same "bow" as it will be when installed (in my case, on my bed with towels under it), and that the cracked area is lined up so that it isn't visible through the fabric.

    I'll clean up the edges in a couple of hours, and that should take care of that.

    Soundproofing starts tomorrow.

  13. #43
    MoistCabbage's Avatar
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    Found 2 weak spots to the left of the overhead console. No big deal to fix, but 20 more minutes of leaning over the bed, and I'd prefer to be able to lay down in it before 12:00

  14. #44
    MoistCabbage's Avatar
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    I did start the soundproofing Saturday, and I did take some pictures, but I think the process will make more sense and be clearer if I posted a writeup of sorts, and all of the before/in progress/after pictures in one post. Too hot to work outside today, so I took care of a few little things:

    The one thing wrong with the "new" interior, was the speaker grilles. Though there was no sign of any water in the donor car, or any musty smell, the speaker grilles had a little bit of surface rust on them. They're discontinued, but Chris got me the part numbers, and told me they were available from Vintage Parts.

    Old ones on the right, obviously:



    According to Chris, when Vintage Parts buys up old stock, they have to buy ALL of the remaining stock. According to their inventory, I apparently have the last NOS black sub cover on the planet...



    Part of the soundproofing project is eliminating buzzes and rattles. One thing that always annoyed me, was the sub grille buzzing when playing bass heavy songs, loudly. It's caused by the mounting tabs vibrating on the underside of the rear parcel shelf. I tried tightening the tabs when I first got the car, but there's always some movement. My solution is some small pieces of 1/8" closed cell foam to act as a buffer. A piece under the area where each of the 4 tabs bends over::



    Another buzz I found while tapping around, was coming from the amp just barely touching the rear crossmember. More closed cell foam took care of that:



    I did have to take a few short breaks on Saturday, so I popped the rear seat bottom back in to rest on. I don't see what the point of the DES was, the Seville has plenty of leg room:



    I have to thank my father for helping out cutting materials and passing me things. We must have been working hard, my dog got tired just watching:



    ThumperPup likes this.

  15. #45
    PeterS is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Cool Re: Interior swap, What modules/parts need to swapped from my car?

    Hello

    Everything lookes Great!
    Keep posting Pictures.

    How do you know so much about this Car?


    Seems like alot of wires that go everywhere.


    Yes ,I have ordered from Vintage Parts Before. They are the Best!

    Good Luck!
    Pete

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