The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods - Page 5
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Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; Thanks for posting your pics Basscatt. I'll try to tackle your "threaded bar stock/turnbuckle/rubber suspended" technique this weekend. Looks like ...
  1. #61
    william5656 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods

    Thanks for posting your pics Basscatt. I'll try to tackle your "threaded bar stock/turnbuckle/rubber suspended" technique this weekend. Looks like it covers all bases, and with simplicity. Only thing I can't make out from your pics is- How did you fasten the threaded bar to the driver side engine mount?

  2. #62
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    Re: The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods

    There is an engine lift strap - the black U-shaped thing - attached to the water crossover/throttlebody area. The trick is to drill a ??? 5/16" ??? hole in the strap and a 5/16" hole through the rod/tube/strap/whatever you choose to fabricate the link bar out of - then bolt them together.

    You're only fooling with a theoretical maximum of 300 lb/ft of torque, so a decent grade 5 or grade 8 bolt - even 1/4" - will do the job forever.

    Ranger's Rods were tubular electrical conduit, so it was a simple matter to bend a s/s washer in a vise, use it as a bottom side load distributor, drill and bolt the tube to the strap.

  3. #63
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    Re: The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods

    Quote Originally Posted by william5656 View Post
    Thanks for posting your pics Basscatt. I'll try to tackle your "threaded bar stock/turnbuckle/rubber suspended" technique this weekend. Looks like it covers all bases, and with simplicity. Only thing I can't make out from your pics is- How did you fasten the threaded bar to the driver side engine mount?
    ------------------------------
    Attachment 127106
    this is actually the starting point for this side -

    heat and bend the threaded rod to 90* -
    install and tighten a nut on the short side -
    then install a washer -
    then fish it up through the hole in the lifting bracket -
    install a washer and single nut loosely -

    lay the threaded rod on top of the core support -

    note the angle to clear the radiator hose -

    mark that angle - and measure down -
    you want to get near the center of the core support -

    "dry-fit" it several times -
    before drilling the hole through the core support -

    when you are satisfied - carefully drill the hole -

    now you are ready to install it -
    this the a "balancing act -

    install 2 nuts - 1 swaybar link washer - 1 rubber cushion onto the threaded rod -
    insert the threaded rod from the inside - through the hole in the core support -

    now install the short end up and through the lifting bracket -

    install 1 washer - and double-nut it - cut off and extra threaded rod -

    push the rubber cushion forward - up against the core support -
    along with the washer and 1 nut -
    just tighten the nut hand tight - PLUS 1 FULL TURN -
    you do NOT want any extra pressure pushing on the core support -

    run the second nut against the first one - and tighten it -
    this will lock the 2 nuts in place -

    now - from the front -
    install 1 rubber cushion - followed by 1 swaybar link washer -
    then 1 nut - just like the inside -
    tighten this hand tight only - PLUS 1 FULL TURN -
    then install the jam nut - and cut off any excess threaded rod -

    doing it this way - the engine is being "suspended" - in a neutral position -
    not being pulled forward - or being pushed backward -
    and allows the engine to move slightly - but cushioned by the rubber -

    the last step is to cover the threaded rod with gas line that is split -
    this is to protect the radiator hose from the slight contact it could have -
    and to "finish" the look -

  4. #64
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    Re: The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods

    Duh !!!!! Hey, Sub - When all else fails, zoom the picture ............ (Thanks, bass)

    Here's the beginning of the tube installation of the same side.......... more bending to be done...........

  5. #65
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    Getting ready to do this on my friends 04 dts today I really forgot how much engine movement there is when you rock the car

  6. #66
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    Re: The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods

    Gotta' say this is something I'd love to try but am not sure I'm mechanically apt enough...

    So Sub, you just bolted these thing in? I've perused the photos in this thread and it LOOKS simple enough, but I have much trepidation about it. Sounds like it really improves the car though.

    I got a better idea, can you and Ranger just adopt me? I could be like the red-headed step child, just, you know, the one you help care for his Caddy?

  7. #67
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    Re: The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods

    TMS, it's not rocket science, but you don't simply bolt them in - there's measurement to do, holes to drill, some vise work and hacksaw work, a decent mechanical eye, and the constant "Is this going to hit, bend, or chafe that if and when........." type of automotive build experience.

    If you're not afraid to create some steel metal chips, it's a good way to get your feet wet.

    When drilling the front crossmember I used a strong magnet next to the drill bit to catch metal chips - you don't want a razor-sharp chip hung up in the serpentine belt.

  8. #68
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    Re: The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods

    So, I tackled this project on Sat, and I gotta say it turned out great (as far as I'm concerned). I didn't have access to torch, welder, or vise, so everything I did was done with standard hardware store parts, a hacksaw(sawzall) & drill. I went with turnbuckles on both sides, and glad I did, since it's really easy to find the 'perfect center' so the engine is 'suspended'.
    I did need to notch out the radiator bracket on the passenger side so bar was straight.
    Only thing I'm not yet happy with is the suspension rubber. Since I bought everything from a hardware store, my immediate options were limited. The rubber 'stopper' material I went with is a bit toooo spongy. So I just bought some denser rubber 'sway bar bushings' AND some REALLY dense polyurethane ones. Gonna switch 'em out and play with it till I find perfection. Aside from this, man what an improvement! Crisp shifting, no more slamming at WOT. Shoulda done this a long time ago.
    I'm gonna try to upload pics, but having a tough time uploading. I don't think It's me, since I've now tried to upload pics from 2 different computers. Help. Why can't I upload pics.

  9. #69
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    Re: The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods

    Quote Originally Posted by william5656 View Post
    So, I tackled this project on Sat, and I gotta say it turned out great (as far as I'm concerned). I didn't have access to torch, welder, or vise, so everything I did was done with standard hardware store parts, a hacksaw(sawzall) & drill. I went with turnbuckles on both sides, and glad I did, since it's really easy to find the 'perfect center' so the engine is 'suspended'.
    I did need to notch out the radiator bracket on the passenger side so bar was straight.
    Only thing I'm not yet happy with is the suspension rubber. Since I bought everything from a hardware store, my immediate options were limited. The rubber 'stopper' material I went with is a bit toooo spongy. So I just bought some denser rubber 'sway bar bushings' AND some REALLY dense polyurethane ones. Gonna switch 'em out and play with it till I find perfection. Aside from this, man what an improvement! Crisp shifting, no more slamming at WOT. Shoulda done this a long time ago.
    I'm gonna try to upload pics, but having a tough time uploading.
    ---------------------------
    I just bought some denser rubber 'sway bar bushings'
    AND some REALLY dense polyurethane ones.

    the sway bar bushings will be perfect - that's what I used -
    firm enough - but insulates the body from noise and vibration -

    the hard poly bushings are going to transfer all the noise
    and vibration right into the body -

  10. #70
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    Re: The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods

    Mine have no rubber or other insulation at all. I've never noticed any noise or vibration for whatever that's worth.

  11. #71
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    Re: The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods


  12. #72
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    Re: The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods

    ----------------------------------------
    nice job -
    the only thing I would add would be jam nuts at the turnbuckle -

    without the jam nuts - the turnbuckle could turn -

    --------------

    from the pics I see a potential problem on the left side -
    it looks like you are too close to the radiator hose -
    and by going under the hose - the plastic radiator cover won't fit -

    go back to #63 - and note the angle I had to use to clear the hose -

  13. #73
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    Re: The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods

    See, I told you there was more than one way to skin this cat. Now make sure that there is no contact between that left strut and your upper radiator hose or you'll get an unpleasant surprise someday.

  14. #74
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    Re: The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods

    Thanks for the compliment. Couldn't have done it without your trailblazing. I've been following these various threads for awhile, but it wasn't till I saw yours that I felt this could be done while still retaining that Cadillac feel with no transmitted engine vibration or noise.
    The polyurethane will likely be too stiff. Impulse buy. Prolly end up returing them to Pepboys.
    Yeah, I saw the angle you used on driver side, but I really wanted that 'straight shot'. I drilled my hole as low as I could to not interfere with the rad hose. The end result is that it does lift the rad hose just slightly, but not enough to pinch or crimp it. I still need to finish everything off with decorative sleeves to cover the threaded bars and protect friction points (rad hose & power steering hose). Maaaaybe paint? Haven't decided yet. Want to drive it for a bit to twerk any possible bugs before I make it purty.
    And my plastic cover fits on perfectly. Didn't need to cut it at all. Just didn't attach pic with it on. Took lots of pics but was having a tough time reducing pic sizes for uploading, so only uploaded critically functional ones.
    basscatt likes this.

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    Re: The 2000+ Seville side of Ranger's Rods

    The end result is that it does lift the rad hose just slightly, but not enough to pinch or crimp it.
    It's resting on the threaded rod as I see it. Sooner or later it will wear through. Do whatever you have to do to give it some clearance or pad it. It will not wear through at an opportune time. That much you can bank on.
    basscatt likes this.

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