I just cleaned my throttle body on my 97 sls and followed all the instructions on a manual on this Website. So it ran great for about a week but than a lot of problems started showing up. First my car started to cut in and out for about 5 secs than the RPMs would drop to 0 and would stay there until I restarted my car.
So after that started happening I pulled the codes from my car and I got the infamous P1350 & P1375 codes. Which I looked online and I couldn't find much of anything that I could have screwed up cleaning the TB to cause those problems. Also now my car will shut off occasionally at stop lights and signs. It seems to run fine when in neutral but the sec I switch it into drive she dies on me. So the only way to get the car to move when this happens is by starting it in neutral giving it a slight amount of gas and popping it into drive.
I re-checked all my wiring and looked at my mass air flow sensor again and everything seems to be fine. So I am to the point that I am totally lost. Oh and also the these problems don't start happening until the car has been running for a good 5-10 mins and other times it doesn't happen at all.
P.S. Nothing even close to these problems where happening until I cleaned the throttle body.
Any help would be greatly appreciated...Thanks In Advance
P1350 - Ignition Control System
P1375 - IC 24X Reference Circuit High Voltage
Don't know how infamous these can be if I've never seen them. hehehe
Maybe they're not so infamous on a COP system like mine...and there's no misfire code. It only happens when the engine has come to temperature, so maybe EGR related? The codes are ignition, though, so does this model have an ignition module? Bad PCM, maybe? Just guessing...I'll check my FSM, but I suspect it won't even cover these DTCs.
I wouldn't jump to a bad PCM or EGR. The high-resolution reference system is what gives the PCM/ignition module the timing info. So you'd be looking at either a failing cam or crank position sensor.
I'm pretty sure it was just coincidence that this popped up after cleaning the TB. Maybe recheck connections to your coil packs just in case some connector got bumped.
Ya, that makes sense. But wouldn't the cam/crank sensors throw their own codes? And there was a crank position sensor code within the P1350-1375 range. Maybe when conditions are met during a few more ignition cycles the crank code will come.
Check if by any chance you moved in any way the wires (harness/connector) that goes to the ignition module.
There are wires/connectors on either side, check those first.
The FSM sends me to check the wires first then the A&B CKP sensors.
In any case unless you find wires out of place the TB cleanup had nothing to do with it.
Alright I will get looking at a couple of these ideas right away. Also I just thought about it the codes and the RPM drop have never happened when driving on the high way at high speeds its only when im driving at normal city driving speed....
Forgot to say as well that I cleared my codes and waited for this to happen again drove for about 30 more seconds and than stopped and wrote the codes down and the 1350 and 1375 where the only ones that got thrown...
When you mean disconnect the sensor do you mean just unplug the wire or take off the whole plastic cylinder. Also my brother has a 97 Deville which I "Borrowed" his mass air flow sensor. Just the sensor part though that you take out with two screws and put it in mine and put mine in his and the problem still exists on my car and his car is still running fine. So I question that its the mass air flow sensor...Thanks for the info though I will still definitely give it a try
97 Seville Sputtering Probs & RPM Gage Drops To Zero & Engine Quits At Stop Signs
My 97 Seville is having Sputtering Problems & the RPM gage drops to 0 even while still driving. Also when I pull up to stop lights the engine quits on me every once and awhile
So I checked the codes and the codes that are being given are as follows
P1350 - Ignition Control System
P1375 - IC 24X Reference Circuit High Voltage
So I cleaned my Throttle Body right before this started but everyone told me theres no way this had anything to do with it.
So on to what I did I spent all day changing out my Ignition Control System which after I did it ran great for a good hour and than bam right back to the same old issues. So the next thing I was told to check was my crankshaft sensor. Well I cant find even a slightly alright tutorial on how to do this and also no pictures to show me where the sensors are. All I get is that they are on the front of the engine block between cylinders 2-4. I am new to the forum and dont have the skills to search really well through old posts and things but if someone could point me in the right direction on some good crankshaft instructions I would appreciate it.
Also the next thing that someone suggested was for me too look at the PCM so if anyone could give me a link to a tutorial on how to get PCM out gently of course on a 97 Seville it would make my year....THANKS IN ADVANCE
Re: 97 Seville Sputtering Probs & RPM Gage Drops To Zero & Engine Quits At Stop Signs
CKP's............car up on a lift, lower air deflector removed, electrical connectors have double safety locks. Remove the oil filter adapter for room to work....................Your CKP's are both the same P/N. Talk to Chris up in Rippy Cadillac, Vendors ^^^, Parts dep't. tomorrow AM.
I seriously doubt the PCM has anything to do with this problem...............
Remove the ICM and coil pack from the top of the rear cam cover. Dismount the coils and clean all the base contacts. Clean and tighten the ICM to engine ground strap connectors. If the engine still has the original coils, they have been known to get weak - in any event, the coils should be marked with the correct plug wire position - make sure the plug wires are connected correctly. If the plugs and wires are original, you're WAY overdue for new AC Delco #41-950 platinum plugs and an AC Delco wire set.
Re: 97 Seville Sputtering Probs & RPM Gage Drops To Zero & Engine Quits At Stop Signs
You were already told in your other thread what to do, why you are asking again?
Years ago I was walking down the street and somebody ask me how to get to a certain place. It just happens we were 3 blocks away so I explained where to cross the street and exactly where to go. As I was walking away the person just stopped somebody else asking again the same thing, I was just about to turn back and ask the guy why he needs to ask somebody else but I just let it be.
You are that person now.
EDIT:
Sorry I am just getting frustrated because you don't listen to the solution, your car could have been fixed since last week.
The ICM (ignition control module) is controlling the timing from the spark (with the PCM assistance but that's not important here).
This ICM, in order to know when to send the spark to what cylinder, needs to know EXACTLY the position of the engine in the 360* (actually in the 720* since is a 4 stroke).
There is a wheel with some teeth that spins with the engine and a sensor next to it. When one of the teeth pass in front of the sensor the sensor sends a puls to the ICM.
You need two of these sensors (called CKP A and B) and based on the timing between the pulses the ICM knows exactly where the engine is.
The codes you have tell you the ICM does not receive the pulses from the sensors, to be more specific at least .5 seconds after ignition is on the ICM did not received 8 consecutive pulses.
The ICM controls the coils witch increase the voltage and send the current to the spark plugs.
Now you understand how the ignition wires and coil packs have NOTHING to do with this, the problem is the ICM does NOT send ANY signal to the coils, you should be looking at the A and B CKP sensors or the wires between the sensors and the ICM, I am telling you this since last week.
probable the maf sensor has nothing to do with the codes but it could be a part of the problem. Its a cheap easy test just pull the plug takes a min. or two. That is the last area he worked no tools or test equipment needed. Mike
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