2001 STS Door Lock Problems?

[1fast4door]

I have somehow been recruited into a problem with a '01 STS (a friends dads car) and its got me stumped. A few weekends ago while they were heading up north the door locks just started re-locking over and over while driving, every once in a while the Theft Deterrent light on the dash would light. They didn't think that much of it other than being annoying, but the next morning the battery was dead. They got it started and got home alright, and then gave ma a call since I had done some work on his Allante before. When I go there I pulled the codes and got a big long list.

* AMP -- Amplifier
B1327 Battery/Source Voltage Low
U1000 Generic class 2 Failure/ Loss Class2 Communication of DIM
* DDM -- Drivers Door Module
B1327 Battery/Source Voltage Low
B3282 Pass. Door Express Down Shorted to GND
B3833 Window Position Sensor Circuit
U1713
* DIM -- Dash Integration Module
B1983 System Voltage Low
* IPC -- Instrument Panel Cluster
B1004 Loss of Keep Alive Memory
* IPM -- Instrument Panel Integration Module
B1652 KAM reset
* IRC -- Integrated Radio Chassis
U1000 Generic class 2 Failure/ Loss Class2 Communication of DIM
U1064 Loss Of BCM/DIM/SBM Communications
U1065 Loss of serial communications for class 2 devices
U1160 Loss Of DDM Communications
U1016 Loss of PCM Communications
* MSM -- Memory Seat Module
B1327 Battery/Source Voltage Low
* RFA -- Remote Function Actuation
U1305 Class 2 Bus Shorted to Ground/ Battery
* RIM -- Rear Integration Module
B1327 Battery/Source Voltage Low
B1328 Source/Battery Voltage Too High
* TTM -- Tilt and Telescopic Steering Wheel Module
B1982 Battery/Source volts high
B1983 System Voltage Low

All were in History except the B3833 which was current. Now I am under the assumption that a lot of those are from the dead battery, so I went ahead and cleared all the codes and started it and cycled the door locks a few times. Then pulled the codes again. all that was there was B3833 Current, so once again I cleared all and let it sit for a while.


In the mean time I looked up the B3833 and found a link ***.justanswer.com/questions/2l2eg-i-have-a-2002-cadillac-sls-with-engine-codes-ddm-3833-pcmp0420

and did what it said about holding the window up button on both front doors for 10 seconds.
About a half hour later I went and rechecked the codes and what was there was.

* DDM -- Drivers Door Module
B3172 Window Up Switch Circuit Low
B3282 Pass. Door Express Down Shorted to GND
B3833 Window Position Sensor Circuit

After doing some looking on this site I could have thrown these just with the process of setting the express window feature.

So once again I cleared all codes and walked away for a while and was just watching the car and I could hear the door locks cycling every once in a while and the tail lights were lighting up. It wasn't constant like it was but kinda random from what I could tell. So I let it do its thing for a while and went back to get the codes and there were no codes in memory. At this point I don't know what direction to go and could really use some advice. I am trying to find out about the battery, and may get it tested. From what I have read these cars seem sensitive to weak batteries. The other things in my head are the DDM, BCM, and I think its weird that with these symptoms that there are no VTD codes. I know that I am a noob but I have been lurking for quite a while and there are some seriously smart people here and I greatly appreciate any help that is offered


George

[2001_Seville_SLS]

The codes are not related to not setting the express up operation. Here is why: First, all of those codes don't show up together if you don't reset the windows after disconnecing the battery. Second, if the windows were reset and your express up operation , the one touch operation, was working on both front windows when you cleared the codes, then the codes are definately not related to failure to reset the windows.

The codes along with the haunted door switches indicates a poor electrical connection to the RIM.

1. Check if pulling the IGN SW fuse #29 stops the problem.
2. Check the IGN SW fuse for corrosion.
3. Check the connector at the RIM for a good connection.
4. Check the power and ground conductors to the RIM.

The RIM is located behind the right rear passenger seat and is accessed thru the trunk.

[BIG ERN]

sounds like a battery thats on it's way out or a bad ground somewhere,i would have the battery checked and make sure the terminals are really clean

[1fast4door]

Thanks for the reply(s) {I kinda carpet bombed the Caddy Forums}SLS I had read a couple of posts on here about the second set of codes.

Check codes. You might see a B3833 or B3832 code. This is as ewill3rd described - the door module does not know the position of the glass. As such, it will not express-up and/or express-down. This happens when the battery has been disconnected or for other reasons. You will need to reprogram the window motor's express function:

1. Press and hold the power window switch until the window is fully DOWN
2. Continue holding the power window switch for about 3 seconds
3. Press and hold the power window switch until the window is fully UP
4. Continue holding the power window switch for about 3 seconds.
5. Repeat this process for the other front window.

B3172 can be set if a window switch is held too long as in children of any age playing with the switches. If the window still operates, clear the code and motor on down the road.

The only time you "need" to check codes is when the ENGINE light comes on OR you get an informational message on the DIC.

That is why I jumped to that conclusion, because I held the window switches for 10 seconds instead of the three that I was supposed to, thanks for the heads up. I will hopefully have the time to work on the car this weekend. I will definitely start with your suggestions, thanks so much.

I will also be taking a good look at the battery BIG ERN, Thanks

George

[1fast4door]

Well I picked the STS up on Friday night and have been driving it all weekend 100+ miles and no issues what so ever, no door locking no dead battery in the morning.

I have a theory...I think he left the car dead for a couple of days this time, knowing that I wasn't going to pick it up until Friday night. I think because of the length of time that it was dead that the battery fully drained and basically hard reset all the computers/modules in the car. Really disconnecting the battery for awhile was something I was going to try anyways, in my experience with computer controlled cars when they flake out that is sometimes a fix.

I did take a look at the #29 ignition fuse and it was clean, no sign of corrosion whatsoever. I also looked at the battery and it looks brand new, I am guessing no surprise there given its location. The date code looked like 0MG19 and it had a green eye still. If I understand correctly 0=2000 and M=December is that right?

I didn't want to take apart the trunk to get at the RIM while there was no current issues.

Thanks for the help guys, I really depreciate it.

George