Blinking Oil Light Indicator on dash - Page 5

Beverly Stayart · #61 (**permalink**) 10-08-09, 04:50 PM

Thanks for sharing this helpful info.

**Ranger** · #62 (**permalink**) 10-08-09, 05:21 PM

MrsC, I would suspect the oil pressure switch. I don't think it is expensive. If it where me, I'd have it changed, but be sure to use an A/C Delco switch.

MrsC · #63 (**permalink**) 10-09-09, 09:28 AM

Thank you Ranger, that is the next thing I'm going to try! I love this site so full of useful information!

rickko · #64 (**permalink**) 10-09-09, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ranger

MrsC, I would suspect the oil pressure switch. I don't think it is expensive. If it where me, I'd have it changed, but be sure to use an A/C Delco switch.

The switch(sensor) and gaskets ran about $23 and labor $127 in 2004.

If you are talking about the oil pressure sensor, don't waste your time and money. I've replaced it twice. Absolutely no effect after the change.

I've owned my STS since May of '03 and had the problem as long. I've tried everything except pull the pan and replace the oil pump (which isn't suggested to do anyway).

If you read this thread from beginning to end you'll see no one has found a permanent solution to this problem.

The only thing that's worked for me since day one when the blinking started is to keep 7 qts of oil in the engine. I have to add a quart every 800 miles. In fact, when the light starts blinking, its my warning to dump another quart in the engine. After all these years I'm still doing it. Its a small price to pay to enjoy such a great car.

My STS now has 122,000 miles and is great in every other way.

Good luck! But most importantly, if you permanently solve the problem. Be sure to post it here.

..rickko..

mikey87290 · #65 (**permalink**) 10-29-09, 05:35 PM

I have had the same thing just happen to me to. 97 sts

i just rebuild my engine last month.New bearings (rods,mains)
new pump (after market) update oil manifold and pick up tube.Clean the block made sure no dirt any were inside.
drove it the first day and as soon it got warm the light would flicker like all of yours did.
So i got a new switch(aftermarket) and remove the oil cooler lines and put in a gauge so i can watch it all the time.Every thing was doing good until today.Pressure fall below 5 on the gague but no light coming on.
i am running 10w30 oil which i am changing to 10w40 this weekend.My friend work at a cad dearler and said that is what i should do to help.that was with my last engine.
if the new weight oil make the diff i will let you all know.which it should.
i have a 96sls and i run 20w50 due to bad bearing.its a 5mile car.dont go farrer then 5 miles from home and been driving it for 3 months like that

fyi to change the oil pump take only 3 hours if you have not took the front cover off before.you got to lower the frame about 2 inch's.

rickko · #66 (**permalink**) 10-30-09, 03:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikey87290

...if the new weight oil make the diff i will let you all know...

I hope you do! I've been monitoring this thread since 2003 and yet to read a solution.

It's so disappointing to read that you changed out all the oil stuff inside the pan and it had no effect.

The cause of the problem & fix remain elusive.

..rickko..

HowardW · #67 (**permalink**) 10-30-09, 01:42 PM

FWIW.......I would never install a new oil pump (especially a high pressure pump) on an older engine with a lot of miles on it, unless it's part of a complete lower end engine rebuild. Installing a new pump on a high mileage engine with increased bearing clearances can actually cause more problems by increasing the oil leakdown from the old worn bearings.

I think if you're running a good quality synthetic oil that even as little as 5-7 lbs. of pressure at idle on a hot day is still ok, and the engine will still be protected. The old general rule is about 10 lbs. of oil pressure for every 1000 RPM's of engine speed.