Blinking Oil Light Indicator on dash - Page 3

billytheshoe · #31 (**permalink**) 11-18-08, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ranger

Billy, if it where the check valve, wouldn't the oil pump loose it's prime after shutdown and have no oil pressure at all?

IIguess I wasn't considering no psi. No psi is a grave situation with consequences that will be catastrophic. From my knowledge a flickering indicator at idle and off idle not flickering... indicates some psi. Generally any oil warning means take immediate action to me.

rickko · #32 (**permalink**) 11-21-08, 01:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billytheshoe

...Generally any oil warning means take immediate action to me.

Don't know if you noticed but this thread started in July of 2003. Problem still exists. My immediate action is to add a quart of oil. Just wish I knew where all the oil goes. Seemingly not out the exhaust (pipes clean, no smoke, passes smog), not on the ground, not in the water, but it goes somewhere.

The car has always used oil. Like a quart every 800 miles. That's why I say, as it uses oil the light starts blinking on/off more frequently at idle. Sometimes I'll see the STOP ENGINE NOW message. Always at idle and always when its very warm outside. Then I pour in a quart and it goes out for another 800 or so miles.

It seems to me, as it loses oil it can't maintain its oil pressure.

Haha, as often as I add oil, I rarely do a full oil change. I do change the filter regularly but by the time I've traveled 5000 miles I've added about 6 1/2 quarts of oil.

..rickko..

**Ranger** · #33 (**permalink**) 11-21-08, 11:38 AM

The oil has to be going out the tail pipe if there are no leaks. Oil quantity has absolutely no affect on oil pressure unless the sump is nearly dry.

rickko · #34 (**permalink**) 11-21-08, 12:58 PM

Well, the sump isn't dry. That's for sure.

The only change is when oil capacity is topped off, no problem. When it drops about a quart (can't see it on the oil stick), oil pressure light starts blinking. And if its a pretty hot day I occasionally see the STOP ENGINE NOW display when I come up to a stop light and idle.

If oil pressure doesn't relate to oil capacity (I agree with that) then there is some other reason why the light comes on when its down a quart or more.

I've had three oil pressure sensors installed. Symptoms never changed from one to the other.

I've been told to put 12 quarts of oil in, run the engine for 20 mins or so, drain it then put in the normal amount. Supposidly that might affect the oil pump/sump in a positive way. I've never tried that suggestion.

..rickko..
PS. Thanks for your suggestions.

submariner409 · #35 (**permalink**) 11-21-08, 01:42 PM

If you have a Northstar engine and the oil drops to where you can't see it on the dipstick, you're pushing over 2 quarts low. That engine takes 7.5 quarts, with filter, to bring the level to nearly the top of the dipstick hashmark.

Is there any chance that the dipstick has been replaced ?

If it has, in order to re-calibrate it to properly read FULL, change the oil and filter and refill with exactly 7.5 quarts of 10W-30. Run the engine for 5 minutes, shut down and let it sit for 5 minutes. Insert the dipstick and read the oil level. Where it now reaches is your new "FULL" mark.

The "put 12 quarts in and run the engine" is an old trick for priming a Northstar oil system if a chip gets under the non-return check valve disc: The oil pump is above the oil level in the pan and many times it cannot prime itself without help.

98eldorado-lee · #36 (**permalink**) 11-21-08, 05:38 PM

I used to work for a used car lot, and we had just got a ford windstar in. The van looked new, well when the motor was warm the oil light would flash at idle. We drained the oil and it was a grey color, it turned out the gray color was the lower bearings. We had to buy a motor from the junkyard to put in it, it was cheaper than fixing it, I'm not saying this is your problem, but it sure brings back memories.

**Ranger** · #37 (**permalink**) 11-21-08, 06:11 PM

Quote:

I've been told to put 12 quarts of oil in, run the engine for 20 mins or so, drain it then put in the normal amount. Supposidly that might affect the oil pump/sump in a positive way. I've never tried that suggestion.

It's actually 16 qts, but like Sub said, if that (check valve) was your problem, the oil would drain out of the pump after shut down and you'd have no oil pressure at all.

iJAC · #38 (**permalink**) 01-06-09, 05:52 AM

I was just wondering if anyone has solved this problem yet? I own a 97 Eldorado and have been going through this problem for about a year now. I read awhile back in another thread that some guy moved the oil pressure switch over by using a T fitting. He moved it because the switch is by the oil cooler (I'm not sure exactly if this is where it is, I haven't seen the post in awhile) and it was throwing the reading off. With the other end of the fitting, he ran a mechanical gauge to the car so that he could have a reading at all times (since the instrument panel is digital, it only gives the oil lamp light not an actual pressure reading). I wish I could find this post since I will be attempting this procedure soon. Any other assistance would be fantastical!

**Ranger** · #39 (**permalink**) 01-06-09, 01:22 PM

iJAC, what exactly are you trying to accomplish? The only reason to plumb in a "T" is to put a mechanical gauge on it to confirm the actual pressure. If your light is blinking, most likely all you need is a new pressure switch. Make sure it is an A/C Delco switch.

iJAC · #40 (**permalink**) 01-13-09, 05:15 AM

I'm trying to get rid of my oil pressure issue. The car only flashes the light when it idles, as soon as I tap the gas pedal it goes off. I had the switch replaced shortly after this started happening, for some reason I have a weird feeling that it wasn't replaced at the shop I took it too. I am also in the dark as to where it is so it will be an adventure to find it when I purchase a new switch. I found the old thread that I was looking for. Ranger, if you could take a look at it and let me know if this is at all accurate. I will start with replacing the switch myself and go from there, otherwise. Below is the response for the thread...

[i had a similar problem 5 years ago with a '97 eldo.
at hot idle the light would flicker on and off and sometimes the stop engine message would appear.
i changed the switch and the problem was still there.
i fitted a shop pressure gauge and found that i had a good 7psi at hot idle and way over 40psi at 2000rpm.
i fitted a second new switch and still had the problem.
i couldn't understand how the shop gauge showed good presssure and the switches were showing bad.
i decided to fit an aftermarket oil gauge, to do so meant adding some plumbing fittings to the filter housing that routed the pressure switch feed round the motor mount.
with the oil switch and new gauge sender routed around and down the side of the motor mount i never had the low pressure light come on again and the dash gauge showed the same readings as the shop gauge.
the only thing i could think of that caused the problem was that maybe there was a pressure drop at the switch due to the thermostatic oil cooler which has its feed right next to the oil switch.
moving the switch away from the oil cooler feed maybe stabilised the pressure at the switch.]

**Ranger** · #41 (**permalink**) 01-13-09, 12:35 PM

Sounds logical. Are you using A/C Delco switches?

tateos · #42 (**permalink**) 01-13-09, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ranger

The oil has to be going out the tail pipe if there are no leaks. Oil quantity has absolutely no affect on oil pressure unless the sump is nearly dry.

Ranger - maybe the oil pick up tube is damaged or disconnected somehow, so the level that the oil is drawn from is higher up in the crankcase? That would explain it, no?

**Ranger** · #43 (**permalink**) 01-13-09, 01:50 PM

I would hate to guess at that, as I have never had to get into one like you have. If that where the case I would more expect a complete pressure loss, don't you think?

tateos · #44 (**permalink**) 01-13-09, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ranger

I would hate to guess at that, as I have never had to get into one like you have. If that where the case I would more expect a complete pressure loss, don't you think?

Not if the oil was at the level of the opening to the oil pump pickup. I had this happen to me once on an automatic transmission - I didn't install the filter properly, so the pickup point was at the top of the filter instead of the bottom. Worked OK just pooping along, but with moderate or stronger acceleration, the trans fluid would move back in the pan far enough to uncover the inlet and suck air. Now that I think of it, the OP does not mention any difference with motion, so maybe that is not it after all

iJAC · #45 (**permalink**) 01-13-09, 05:51 PM

I hope that I doesn't come to the T fitting. I dont know if the switch used was an AC Delco. I do know that I purchased one to replace the faulty one that is currently used. What is the importance of AC Delco? I read something about it being tied in with original parts for GM vehicles, I didnt know how accurate the article was since it was on Wikipedia. Thanks for all the recommendations thus far.