Entire dash cluster gone...
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Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, Entire dash cluster gone... in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; Turned the key on today and I have no IPC and no DIC lights. Service telltales work, interior lights work. ...
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    Sevillian273's Avatar
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    Entire dash cluster gone...

    Turned the key on today and I have no IPC and no DIC lights. Service telltales work, interior lights work. Basically everything green is out. (vacuum flourescent displays) Most of the service procedures in the FSM ask me to go into diagnostics. What a joke because I cant see them! I know there are a million circuits to check but I have one question: What does the Central Power Supply (CPS) do? Yea ok I know it supplies power but to what?

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    Re: Entire dash cluster gone...

    The newer models (the mid ‘90s and up) have a thing shutting down all VFD if the battery voltage falls below 9.something volts.
    Start with making sure the battery is OK and the terminals are not corroded.
    Can you crank the engine?

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    Re: Entire dash cluster gone...

    Its the power supply section of the board in the IPC. It supplies 55v to the vacuum florescent lights in both the IPC and the DIC. I pulled the IPC unit out and it smelled like fried bacon! Also a light coating of soot/smoke in the cavity where the unit sits. Everything else functions, I just cant see anything. The lights flickered last night but I figured it was the panel dimmer. A new unit from GM is $1753.00!!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sevillian273 View Post
    Its the power supply section of the board in the IPC. It supplies 55v to the vacuum florescent lights in both the IPC and the DIC. I pulled the IPC unit out and it smelled like fried bacon! Also a light coating of soot/smoke in the cavity where the unit sits. Everything else functions, I just cant see anything. The lights flickered last night but I figured it was the panel dimmer. A new unit from GM is $1753.00!!!!
    Try to see what is wrong (dried capacitors, blown transistors or diodes). If no luck replace the PCB with one from a wreck yard.
    For that price I can fly over fix the PCB and have a really really good meal at some expensive stake house in your area.
    But seriously is a $100 inconvenience at most.

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    Re: Entire dash cluster gone...

    Nothing looks wrong visibly. I'll take pics tomorrow. What I did find out is from the diags in the FSM. Lucked out big time and found a used unit on ebay for $50. I have no experience soldering electronics but I'd be willing to learn if that means I can keep my original odometer reading.

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    Re: Entire dash cluster gone...

    Just had another look under a light: A blue cap slightly discolored from the other blue ones. The top is slightly bulged upwards. It reads 9002F. It actually doesnt look too hard to fix. What kind of flux/solder would I need to attempt a fix? I have a conventional iron and I do know which end to grab! I tried 95/5 and hot weather paste flux for plumbing once to fix a guitar... It didnt work out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sevillian273 View Post
    Just had another look under a light: A blue cap slightly discolored from the other blue ones. The top is slightly bulged upwards. It reads 9002F. It actually doesnt look too hard to fix. What kind of flux/solder would I need to attempt a fix? I have a conventional iron and I do know which end to grab! I tried 95/5 and hot weather paste flux for plumbing once to fix a guitar... It didnt work out.
    9002F ? Sure is not 900uF?
    That sounds like a capacitor (should smell terrible, distinctive from burnt smell)
    In any case, that is what caused the problem, now you need to find what got burned due to the shorted out capacitor (yeah is more than just the capacitor, some active component got fried also, inspect the PCB maybe is just a burned conducting path) .
    Use soldering wire (thin one) from a from a electronics hobby store, already has flux in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sevillian273 View Post
    Nothing looks wrong visibly. I'll take pics tomorrow. What I did find out is from the diags in the FSM. Lucked out big time and found a used unit on ebay for $50. I have no experience soldering electronics but I'd be willing to learn if that means I can keep my original odometer reading.

    Yeah, do so, post few detailed pictures.
    The newer dash boards have 2 PCB in a sandwitch arrangement. You can replace the front PCB (the one with the gauges) preserving the odometer (the memory is on the back PCB).

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    Re: Entire dash cluster gone...

    Its 9002H. The unit is also the sandwich style and the burned cap is on the bottom section. It connects with a ribbon cable. Sweet.

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    Re: Entire dash cluster gone...

    My cluster went all hay wire one day too. Started the car and nothing, it was solid black. Took it to the dealer and all they had to do was unplug it and plug it back in, been working fine ever since...Weird

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sevillian273 View Post
    Its 9002H. The unit is also the sandwich style and the burned cap is on the bottom section. It connects with a ribbon cable. Sweet.
    Oh, then is a inductor (i.e. filter device) part of the DC/DC converter.
    Looking like one of these ones:
    SALVATORE and SALVATORE like this.

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    Re: Entire dash cluster gone...

    Any way I can test it while it's still on the board?

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    Re: Entire dash cluster gone...

    An inductor is nothing but a coil, so it will show low resistance (~2-3 ohms) when good and about the same when bad (shorted out). Is hard to tell in any case, but if it looks burned the replace-it. Unfortunately that is not the only problem you have with the PCB, something else (capacitor? maybe) got shorted out, the inductor is just a victim. Chances are is not the only victim, may also be the main transistor (should be a big MOS mounted on a heat sink, hard to believe the rectifier too but is possible, also even harder to believe the chopper (transformer) is gone too).
    If you remove the inductor and measure it and you get infinite resistance then is burned (as the coil is discontinued), that might be good, it means was the weakest link (but is not a warranty that is the only thing burned).
    In any case the inductor is not the cause of the problem is just the victim, you put another one and will get burned too, you need to address the cause of the issue (most likely some dried out capacitor in the oscillator circuit or that area).

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    Re: Entire dash cluster gone...

    Some pictures: Once I got the upper board off I noticed one of the big 100uF caps was loose on one side and there was residue between the two of them:




    Other views:




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    Re: Entire dash cluster gone...

    I can not make up much from the pictures but one thing is clear, the black capacitor (one of the 3 tall ones) next to the blue small (9002H) component need to be replaced (is blown). That is what caused the issue; in fact replace all 3 black capacitors with identical (capacity) and same or larger voltage and temperature rating. The small part looks allot like a capacitor (but is so strange to have the 9002H on it). I need some pictures where all writing and marks are visible. These components seem to be part of the primary (12V DC) circuit so you might be lucky (is before the sensitive parts). You might have a burned fuse though on the 12V supply.
    So I need more pictures with the writing on the blue component that looks so much like a capacitor but seem to be a inductor and one generic picture with all the PCB (so I can tell for sure if the components are indeed on the primary (input) part of the converter, plus a detailed picture of the back of the PCB (the area with the black capacitors and the blue inductor(?).
    You might not need a new IPC if is just the capacitors and inductor(?) + probably a fuse.

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