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Changing a starter on a 98 SLS

10K views 28 replies 12 participants last post by  stoveguyy 
#1 ·
Everyone~

I've just been informed by my mechanic that they will charge me for four hours of labor to change the starter on my 98 SLS. Being a poor grad student, I don't know if I can afford $400 for labor. I was hoping someone has done this before and could talk me through it.

Is it even feasible without putting the car up in the air? Do I need special tools beyond a good ratchet set? Y'all been very helpful in the past, and I'm praying that my good luck on the forum continues.

Thanks so much,
Patrick
 
#2 ·
What diagnostic steps brought you to the "replace starter" solution?

There are several electrical conditions that have to be satisfied before the starter motor will spin up.

And you don't want to be under the car for a starter replacement. The starter motor for your engine is under the intake manifold.
 
#4 ·
A mechanic ran down all the connections, ran the codes and came to that conclusion.
Details would be more helpful; which codes and which connections?

I've heard it's more difficult to get to the starter through the intake manifold than it is from underneath. Is that true?
Not true.

It is impossible to access the starter on your engine from "underneath" the vehicle.

At the risk of repeating myself, your starter motor is located under the intake manifold.

Whoever is feeding you this information is not experienced with Northstar powertrains and that would put the entire diagnosis in question.
 
#7 ·
Is it always a no crank issue? I had what I thought was a bad starter problem, but realized after a little more diagnosis that I had lost my Engine Ground. The braided groundstrap on the right side front of the engine had torn, and I actually installed an old battery cable from the frame to a bolt on the cylinder head.

Hope this helps....
 
#10 ·
There have been instances of either loose starter solenoid IGN connectors or even the large positive cable itself.

The entire fuel rail and intake manifold should be removed. Bleed off the fuel rail, pop the two quick disconnects (tool from NAPA), remove the 4 retainer nuts and lift the rail and injectors as a unit. (Oil the O-rings before you drop it back in). Remove the PCV vacuum lines, unbolt the manifold, disconnect it from the throttlebody and lift it off. The manifold bolt torque is only 89 in/lb; about 7 ft/lb. DO NOT overtorque them or you'll crack the manifold bolt bosses. Given the age of the car i would use new manifold gaskets.

These are from a 2002, yours has a slightly different connector between the manifold and throttlebody.
 
#11 ·
Bad connection or new starter?

My '98 SLS is starting inconsistently. Sometimes, when I turn the key over, I get one single "click" but the engine doesn't crank. Radio, lights a/c all work fine. If I let the car sit for a few hours, I'll turn it over and it will roar to life. It doesn't crank slow, so I'm not convinced that I need to replace the starter. The battery is fully charged, so that's not it.

I took it to a mechanic, and he ran a half-assed electrical check and told me that I needed a new starter. Doesn't a starter degrade slower, ie it cranks slower as it's dying? Anyone have any ideas where I should check the connections?

Thanks,
Patrick
 
#12 ·
I got a second opinion on this. I explained to a mechanic friend back home, and he thought the diagnosis sounds wrong. He says that a starter will crank slower as it degrades. Since the car roars to life in those rare occasions when it does start, it may not be the starter after all. It could just be a bad connection somewhere.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? Where should I start checking the connections. The lights/dash/a/c work fine when I start it up, so I don't think it's a bad battery connection (slightly corroded, but still okay).

Thanks again.
 
#13 ·
....Anyone have any thoughts on this? Where should I start checking the connections. The lights/dash/a/c work fine when I start it up, so I don't think it's a bad battery connection (slightly corroded, but still okay).
Do you have another key? If so, are the symptoms the same when you use either key?

There are two relays in the underhood fuse box labeled START 1 (#36) and START 2 (#35). Remove and install those relays several times each to wipe any possible corrosion from the connector pins.

The road map for the locations is on the inside of the fuse box cover.
 
#15 ·
The headlights don't go real dim after it fails to crank. It's just one single "click" when I turn the key to crank, and nothing. Like I said before, the radio, a/c lights all come on, so it's getting enough power.

I checked the relays for the start. They seemed clean. The car started fine a few times after I reconnected everything, but this morning, it took a dump on me again. I shifted the car into neutral, tried to start it. Nothing. Shifted it back into park, and it started right up. I have a suspicion that that was just dumb luck, though. Again, when it does crank, it doesn't turn over real slow or anything, it starts right up.

Do you think this might be a solenoid issue?

Thanks again.
 
#16 ·
Post #10, first sentence; Have you removed the intake manifold and checked the starter connections ? You would not be the first to find either a loose IGN to solenoid connector or a loose/missing starter positive cable stud nut.

Trace back the starter positive cable - from the intake manifold, passenger end, to the hot positive junction from the battery - that connection clean and tight ???

As JimD posted, there are relays and connectors to be checked, but unfortunately two of those connections are under the intake manifold.
 
#17 ·
i was having the same problem with my 97 ETC. it seemed to only happen when the temp outside dropped to around 40. on hotter days i have no problem starting her. when she dont start it will just give 1 click and thats it. i would have to trun the key 2-3 times and she would start by the 3rd try. everything turns on and is nice and bright and the computer says the battery has 13.4 volts. once she starts up she runs fine and has no problem starting again.
 
#19 ·
Battery volts can be good and the battery won't have the CCA's to crank it sufficiently. The battery should be load tested before coming to the conclusion the starter is faulty. I had 13.5 volts but the batt would discharge over 2-3 days and wouldn't have enough to crank. With that said a slow crank will burn up a starter.
 
#20 ·
I'm going to check all of these things this afternoon. Provided they are accounted for, though, I might just get in there and swap out that starter.

I'm pretty comfortable with the procedure for removing the intake manifold, but I have a couple of questions.

1. Is it necessary to remove the throttle body from the car as well?
2. If not, how do I unbolt the manifold from the throttle body?
3. Should I disconnect the main air intake hose and all of the throttle cables to the throttle body before I start going after the manifold?

Thanks for everyone's help.
 
#22 ·
Unfortunately, I don't have another key I could try. How might that make a difference?

Also, it's true that this is a relatively new (winter) occurrence. If it is just the cold weather, is there something I can do, short of moving it back to Texas, to fix this?
 
#23 ·
The keys have a transponder or resistor encased in the plastic head which informs the theft system that you are not trying to steal the car. If the car doesn't like the key it will lock itself down.

Not sure about the pre-2000 models, but mine came with 2 black keys, 2 key fobs (#1 and #2) and a gray Valet key (which opens the door and ignition only).

Your hard/no start problems are not due to cold weather. You need to go on an organized troubleshooting diagnosis, as posted, to find the cause.
 
#24 ·
This particular key has worked fine for me in the past, so I doubt that's it. Subs, you're absolutely right about the diagnostic check. I couldn't remove the intake manifold myself (see above post about the throttle body, to say nothing of prying off the fuel lines, even with the proper tool) but I didn't want to take it to a mechanic.

It's almost certainly something down underneath the manifold, be it the ignition connection, loose starter, bad solenoid or just a plain rotten starter motor. The easily accessible connections/relays/wires all appear to be in fine shape. Looks like I'm taking it into the shop and have them get down in there for me.
 
#25 ·
Yo, Troops !!!!!

paddyshap needs help from some pre-2000 Northstar owners - specifically intake manifold removal: fuel line disconnect, fuel rail removal, gaskets and torque. Starter motor checks.

Any takers ????

(paddy, I got your PM, but this is the sort of stuff that benefits the entire Forum. My 2002 is different from yours so I'm not going to attempt a SWAG [Scientific Wild Ass Guess])
 
#27 ·
I'm tackling this job right now but im having an issue. How the hell do i disconnect the throttle cables? I was told to pry it open with a screwdriver and pull the ball out. Tried that and doesn't seem to be working for me. I'd hate to break it. Is there a secrete to doing this that i don't know? Thanks in advance.
 
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