Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, Changing a starter on a 98 SLS in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; Post #10, first sentence; Have you removed the intake manifold and checked the starter connections ? You would not be ...
Automobile(s): 2002.5 F55 STS/65500mi, 2004 Ford F150 SuperCab4x4
MD Eastern Shore - Kent Island
Re: Changing a starter on a 98 SLS
Post #10, first sentence; Have you removed the intake manifold and checked the starter connections ? You would not be the first to find either a loose IGN to solenoid connector or a loose/missing starter positive cable stud nut.
Trace back the starter positive cable - from the intake manifold, passenger end, to the hot positive junction from the battery - that connection clean and tight ???
As JimD posted, there are relays and connectors to be checked, but unfortunately two of those connections are under the intake manifold.
i was having the same problem with my 97 ETC. it seemed to only happen when the temp outside dropped to around 40. on hotter days i have no problem starting her. when she dont start it will just give 1 click and thats it. i would have to trun the key 2-3 times and she would start by the 3rd try. everything turns on and is nice and bright and the computer says the battery has 13.4 volts. once she starts up she runs fine and has no problem starting again.
Battery volts can be good and the battery won't have the CCA's to crank it sufficiently. The battery should be load tested before coming to the conclusion the starter is faulty. I had 13.5 volts but the batt would discharge over 2-3 days and wouldn't have enough to crank. With that said a slow crank will burn up a starter.
I'm going to check all of these things this afternoon. Provided they are accounted for, though, I might just get in there and swap out that starter.
I'm pretty comfortable with the procedure for removing the intake manifold, but I have a couple of questions.
1. Is it necessary to remove the throttle body from the car as well?
2. If not, how do I unbolt the manifold from the throttle body?
3. Should I disconnect the main air intake hose and all of the throttle cables to the throttle body before I start going after the manifold?
This particular key has worked fine for me in the past, so I doubt that's it. Subs, you're absolutely right about the diagnostic check. I couldn't remove the intake manifold myself (see above post about the throttle body, to say nothing of prying off the fuel lines, even with the proper tool) but I didn't want to take it to a mechanic.
It's almost certainly something down underneath the manifold, be it the ignition connection, loose starter, bad solenoid or just a plain rotten starter motor. The easily accessible connections/relays/wires all appear to be in fine shape. Looks like I'm taking it into the shop and have them get down in there for me.
I'm tackling this job right now but im having an issue. How the hell do i disconnect the throttle cables? I was told to pry it open with a screwdriver and pull the ball out. Tried that and doesn't seem to be working for me. I'd hate to break it. Is there a secrete to doing this that i don't know? Thanks in advance.
You hold the throttle open and the cable end goes into a slot that you remove, do cruise cable at same time.
They can be a bear if they don't pop right out. Might want to squirt a smidge of lube on it if it don't want to come out.
Yep, had mine off 3-4 times with motor yank, intake swap, egr swap. I casually used screwdriver to pop off plastic clip and broke the cruise clip! Dayum. Had to get different cruise "cable" from junkyard car. Never had the cruise servo open before. Bad karma I guess.