Most often caused by either bad bulb(s), sockets, or wiring in the rear brake lamp/tail lamp circuits. Your wiring runs in a channel in the left trunk hinge arm and there have been problems with broken/chafed wires where the harness leaves the channel and runs into the trunk near the LR wheelwell. There's also a ground connection at the LR wheelwell metal which has caused problems.
Otherwise, the brake light switch over the pedal almost up against the firewall.
Ok so i still got the problem with
P1574 - Stoplamp Switch Circuit
C1295 - Brake Lamp Switch Circuit Open
Things I tried so far are
- new light bulbs
- new stoplight switch Ė thatís the one with the 2 plugs right?????????
- tested another ebtcm module
- cleaned the ebtcm connector and module again
- got battery power on pin 9 on the ebtcm plug when i press the brake
- got battery power at the stoplight switch
- brake lights are working including the 3th brakelight
- ran a new ground for the brake lightís
there 2 switches on the brake paddle one is the stoplamp and one is tcc brake switch
according to the service manual (if I read it right) I should check the stop/btsi/cruise brake switch
but I donít really get why cuz if my tcc light is on should I not check the tcc brake switch?
woeps i mixed the abs with tc light up in my first post sorry about that
my abs light is off so no probs there, its the traction control light thatís on (the light in the left lower corner) and only have those 2 codes set current there are no history code's, if i clear the codes the tc light goes off for a few seconds till the code's return
Theres a capacitor wired across the brake switch contacts, maybe that has open circuited. There should be an orange and white wire attached to the switch that is the power and feed to the EBTCM, the brake light, and cruise control circuits there should also be a black wire on each side of the switch, those are the wires to the capacitor.
You need an analog ohm meter, set your needle meter to an OHM scale. With wires off of the capacitor or the car wiring disconnected from the stop switch, and the brake switch open (no pressure on the brake pedal) touch the cap terminals, the needle should move away from the infinity and move slightly towards 0 ohms and then go back to infinity...reverse leads and on the cap and the needle should move away from infinity even further and then go back to infinity = a good cap. If the meter needle goes all the way over to 0 and stays there = a shorted capacitor If the needle doesn't move at all you have an open capacitor. You have to discharge the capacitor between each test as it picks up a charge from the ohmmeter during the test.