sticky front brakes???

verirrte · #1 (**permalink**) 10-30-09, 02:52 PM

my 96 seville sts has the right front caliper sticking. i noticed it when i changed the front brakes and rotors. so i went back and swapped the caliper thinking that was the problem with no avail. now what do i look for? thanks.

**Ranger** · #2 (**permalink**) 10-30-09, 04:44 PM

Pull the slide pins. Make sure the rubber dust boost are not ripped. Clean and grease the pins with a high temp silicone brake pin grease. Do not use just any old grease. Those things get hot and will cook the grease and cause the caliper to stick again.

verirrte · #3 (**permalink**) 11-01-09, 10:06 AM

everything is new from the hose out. new hose, caliper, pins, rotor and pads. where else can i look. is it something with the abs or the master???

**Ranger** · #4 (**permalink**) 11-01-09, 11:33 AM

ABS or master cylinder should have nothing to do with it if I am understanding your problem correctly. By "sticky" you mean that the caliper is not releasing and wearing down the pads?

zonie77 · #5 (**permalink**) 11-01-09, 12:09 PM

You could open the bleeder screws and see if there is pressure on it.

When you swapped it, new,rebuilt, or used?

Krashed989 · #6 (**permalink**) 11-01-09, 12:37 PM

Open the bleeder on it when it's sticking. If it's still stuck, it's a problem with the new caliper. If it releases, something is keeping pressure from leaving the caliper.

verirrte · #7 (**permalink**) 11-01-09, 07:28 PM

the problem is, when driving there is a constant grind/scrape coming from the right front brake. when brake is applied, the grind stops, but as soon as pedal is released, it comes back. it is wearing grooves in the new rotor. all parts were new or rebuilt from auto value. so the master wouldnt cause the one side to stick, am i understanding you right? could it be the prop valve? where is it on the 96 seville? does anyone have a diagram for the brake system on this car? thanks for all the help.

**Ranger** · #8 (**permalink**) 11-01-09, 10:06 PM

Quote:

when driving there is a constant grind/scrape coming from the right front brake. when brake is applied, the grind stops, but as soon as pedal is released, it comes back. it is wearing grooves in the new rotor.

That's the brake wear indicator.

Krashed989 · #9 (**permalink**) 11-02-09, 12:18 AM

Wouldn't the wear indicators screech when the bake pedal is depressed?.... You need to take off the wheel and really inspect what's going on there. Were the alignment clips for the pads installed correctly? Is the dust shield bent and touching the rotor? Is the wheel bearing so bad that it's allowing the rotor to touch the dust shield? Are the bolts holding the caliper on nice and tight?

**Ranger** · #10 (**permalink**) 11-02-09, 11:55 AM

Usually when the wear indicator just barely makes contact with the rotor it quiets down when the brakes are applied. It is on the inboard side and the piston is as well so when the piston pushes against the rotor it pushes the inboard side away from the rotor (just barely) and pulls the outboard side in (if you can picture that). That's why it quiets down with a brake application.

verirrte · #11 (**permalink**) 11-02-09, 03:42 PM

its not the wear indicator. they are brand new pads and i have check clearence. it is the inside pad grinding on the rotor(like stated). the inside pad is gouging the he** out of the also new rotor. i have been through this thing many times, there is nothing binding in the brake system (from the line out anyway). i have checked pins, clips, bleeding, everything i can think of. i have to believe it is something further in the system... steel line to master, somewhere in there. thanks for your input guys.

**Ranger** · #12 (**permalink**) 11-02-09, 04:22 PM

Then I'm not understanding you problem. "Pads" don't grind on and gouge rotors. If something is holding the caliper from releasing the first thing that will happen is that the pad will wear away from a dragging brake in short order.

zonie77 · #13 (**permalink**) 11-02-09, 06:04 PM

You are going to have to disassemble the brakes and logically check the parts.

Before removing the tires rotate the front wheels, can you hear the squeak?

Remove one part at a time looking for any indication of rubbing,

Check the pads for uneven excessive wear.

I've rebuilt calipers and in good calipers the pistons turn fairly easily.

Krashed989 · #14 (**permalink**) 11-02-09, 06:10 PM

Are the pads lifetime warranty? Lifetime warranty pads are crap. They will last the life of the car, but you'll be replacing rotors like mad.

The first thing you should do is locate whatever is creating the gouges.... Are you sure it's the pads? Could it be a manufacturing defect on the new caliper or caliper bracket, allowing them to touch the rotor? Take the caliper off; whatever is touching will be shiny.

verirrte · #15 (**permalink**) 11-02-09, 07:12 PM

okay thanks for all your help and comments. i have FINALLY figured it out. it was a mixture of two things. first off, the gouging was coming from a slightly bent dust sheild. my fault for not noticing sooner. and second was a kink in the steel line. it wasnt completely closed, but i can imagine it made it very hard for fluid to make its way back after releasing the pedal. again, thanks guys for all your input. this project was frustrating me. big pita...