'97 STS Blinker Works Right, But Not Left

[iconokrass]

I've got a '97 STS that will blink fast with the right blinker on and once or not at all with the left blinker on. The curb light DOES turn on when the blinker is set to the left position, but cruise control does not automatically turn off, as it does with the right blinker.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

[carnut]

put the 4 way flashers on and walk around the car, most likely the lamps on the trunk lid have burnt out bulbs. they get water inside and rust the lamp sockets.

[iconokrass]

Are you kidding me? That would create the symptoms we're seeing??

Next question--where is the freaking 4-way flasher button so I can confirm this?

[iconokrass]

And one more symptom I left out--the flasher wand won't turn itself off when set to the left, but will when set to the right.

[N*Caddy]

Originally Posted by iconokrass

And one more symptom I left out--the flasher wand won't turn itself off when set to the left, but will when set to the right.

There are 2 flashers in your car, one for the turning lights and one for the 4-way blinkers.
The turning flasher does both the left and the right, and is current sensitive. This means is intentionally designed to blink at the normal rate when all the light bulbs are working. If one or more light bulbs are burned (and you have 3 in the back and 1 in front for each side) the current consumed by the remaining working bulbs is smaller. The flasher sense this and will blink faster to let you know there is a burned light bulb.
The 4 way flasher is NOT current sensitive so it will always blink at the normal rate regardless if all the light bulbs are good or not (and by “all” I understand 2x4 per side = 8 light bulbs). The light bulbs are dual filament (i.e. is practically 2 lights in one) one filament does the parking lights and the other does the blinker (only in front) and blinker and brake lights in the back. So the light bulb might be on (as the parking lights) but will not work for the turning signal (and brakes in the back). Brakes and turning lights is what you should look for. Normally the flasher might not sense just one burned light bulb but will definitely sense if two are burned. Well burned or not physically present in the socket or corroded socket (as in bad contact) or wiring issues so you might see the light bulb in the socket, it might even be fine but could be a bad contact in the socket (or somewhere along the wires).
Talking about safety and redundancy (witch in fact can be classified in luxury) think hard and come up with a list of cars having so many light bulbs for the turning blinker (probably not many German and Japanese makes will be in that list). Back in the ‘70s some Cadillac models had individual fiber optics running to each light bulb. The driver was able to see on the dashboard if a light bulb was burned.

And one more symptom I left out--the flasher wand won't turn itself off when set to the left, but will when set to the right.

As for the wand the self-cancel mechanism is mechanic (actuated by the steering shaft). You probably need to change the mechanism. The mechanism incorporates the contacts (basically is the base of the wand). The only electrical contacts on the wand are the ones cruise control related. You can remove the wand by pulling it out, comes out relatively easy (spring loaded) and will stay attached to the small harness for the cruise control contacts (4 wires). Again the wand is NOT the problem; the problem is the mechanism where the wand connects.

[iconokrass]

All good answers! And where is the 4-way button inside the car so I can see if the lights are burned out?

[carnut]

The 4 way flasher button is on the steering column just below the ignition switch. The "wand" or turn signal lever not cancelling, means a return spring on the turn signal switch is broken. Requires removal of the steering wheel and a special tool to remove the steering column lock plate to gain access. On your car I believe the cruise control wires plug in just at the base of the turn signal lever. I've seen those come loose and cancel the cruise when the lever is moved. Once you know which bulbs dont work, pay particular attention to the socket itself for rust and/or corrosion at that bulb.

[N*Caddy]

Originally Posted by iconokrass

All good answers! And where is the 4-way button inside the car so I can see if the lights are burned out?

Next to the ignition switch (on the steering column) there is a plastic stand with a red button in the middle. Press on the button to turn ON the 4-way flasher, rotate on the stand to turn OFF.

[iconokrass]

Boy, I feel stupid, but I'm not finding the 4-way switch near the ignition... I've looked everywhere I remember finding the switch in other cars and everywhere else I can think of (on the steering column, on the console (like my Infiniti) etc.)

However, from the information you've all provided, it does sound like the problem is primarily bulbs, so at least I can start by replacing those and then look at the switch issue (not turning itself back off) later.

Thank you!

[iconokrass]

Aha! Like everything else with this nightmare car, I figured it out and now there's a new problem...

The switch is MISSING. There is a hole in the column where it should be. I pressed my finger in the hole and whatever was inside it allowed me to press it in, where it stuck and then the flashers turned on. HOWEVER--I now can't turn them off.

The left rear blinker/flasher doesn't work in sync with the others, so I'm guessing that the whole bad bulb idea is correct. Now I just have to figure out how to turn off the flashers so my wife has a car to drive in the morning...

[iconokrass]

Okay, I drove a short sheet metal screw into the mechanism and pulled the switch to the out position and the lights are off.

I really appreciate your help!

[iconokrass]

Well, so much for that...

I had one bad bulb (larger, 2 filament) on the left side, replaced that and then tried the flasher with the same results as before. I then looked at the left front, but found no bulb issue there. I then looked at the right rear and found the small bulb was blown (which I have no replacement for.)

I looked for corrosion, but found none. The left side still does not show flashers, while the right side does.

One more clue: I checked the brake lights and noted that the right side works, but the left side does not.

??

[N*Caddy]

Oh that’s easy!
Ground fault (assuming not only the brake lights are not working also the parking lights for that side). The ground is located right in the back of the light assembly inside the trunk (where the connector for the taillight harness is).
As for the light bulbs ONLY the large bulbs are the one to check, the smaller one (far out into the corners) are only parking light.

Here is the simplified electrical diagram:



And here is the complete one:



I do remembering covering this in at least another thread.
Good luck!

[iconokrass]

So now... I'm not finding the ground problem, but in the meantime my cruise control decided to stop working... I'm thinking gasoline and matches at this point...

[N*Caddy]

The Cruise Control Module is powered from the 10A Cruise fuse (located in the engine compartment driver’s side).



Just take the fuse cover off and check the fuse. 99% of the time the fuse is just fine but the pins/sockets are corroded. Pull the fuse, clean the contacts with fine grit sandpaper (if the fuse is fine) and insert-it back. A dirty trick is to remove and reconnect the fuse 2-3 times (that’s the kind of repair you do on the side or the road to get you going for a while until you find some sandpaper).
In the picture above behind the “R” (from “HERE!”) is the Cruise Control Module (placed under the tower strut brace). Check the connector to be clean and corrosion free.
Next are your cruise control contacts (situated on the turn signal wand). Pull the wand out (carefully is also attached with a small cable) and locate the tiny connector on that cable about 1 inch into the steering column under the small removable panel in front of the cut out where the wand connects. Check if the connector is plugged in and if so check with an ohmmeter the contacts. On the wand you have the Cruise Set/Coast, Cruise OFF and Cruise R/A buttons (3 contacts in total). The connector has 4 wires, one is COM and the other 3 wires are the returns from the 3 contacts (NO-Normally Open contacts). The COM wire is the wire that connects to the pin that goes to the pink wire on the steering column cable (the color on the wand cable might not the same on al years/models). But on a '97 on the wand cable blue wire is COM, Green wire is Cruise ON, Red wire is Cruise Set/Coast, Yellow wire is Cruise R/A. Slide Crusie button ON and you should have continuity between Blue and Green. Press Cruise Set/Coast button and you should have continuity between Blue and Red, slide and hold Cruise button to Cruise R/A and you should have continuity between Blue and Yellow. Slide cruise button to OFF and you should see no continuity between blue and any other wire. Press Crusie Set/Coast button (cruise OFF) and you should have continuity between yellow and green wires.
Also with ignition ON you should have 12V on the PK wire on the steering column small harness that connects to the wand.
If no joy then check your ground connection located on the rear right side of the engine near the output right shaft and rack and pinion (I would like to see you getting to that ground connection). But the good news is this ground can also be accessed on the Crusie Control module (Pin E BK/WH wire). You should have 12 V between pin E and pin F (Pink wire) with the engine ON.
Hope you are trying to engage the Cruise Control over 25MPH.