Question: re Ignition Lock Cylinder...photo included

[firstimecaddi]

would the new lock cylinder come with the VATS wires already in place. So then it should be as you say "fishing the wire down the column" and plug it up.

the key is #6

[greg-sls]

Since your picture shows the VATS wires to be already attached to the tumbler, I would assume the new one would be the same way and have the full length of VATS wiring. Now if there are soldering points on the tumbler, a new one might not have the wiring - I don't know how they come. But you would have to get a #6 pellet in the new key to properly interface with the VATS module, if you decided to reconnect VATS.

[ewill3rd]

The replacement cylinder comes with the wires attached, they go all the way from the lock cyilnder down through the column to the connector where you bypassed it before.
The lock cyilnder is cheap and comes with a flat metal key blank for the mechanical cut.
The keys are a bit pricey, when I do this repair I sell 2 and it MUST match the old key resistor.

That will fix your mechanical problem but I am afraid it has nothing to do with your cranks but will not run issue.
You need to check the basics.
You have to have 3 things.... spark, fuel, and compression.
Whichever is easiest to check first go for it.
A fuel pressure gage would be a good place to start, hook one up and crank it to see if you have fuel pressure.
From there I would get a spark tester and check for spark.

Good luck and thanks for the extra info, makes it easier to help.

[firstimecaddi]

as stated earlier I already ordered a new cylinder and a pair of keys. I ordered #6 keys, so we'd see how it goes after I do that reinstall.

I note your point about fuel, spark and compression. And it came to mind... two issues that I intended to investigate.
1. under light acceleration (especially on an incline) I'd get this "shudder" and I could not quite tell if it was the trans or the engine.
2. there was always this "racheting" noise after shutdown.

[ewill3rd]

Oops, sorry I missed the note about the lock and keys.
Sounds like we got you going down the right road.
Keep us posted.

[greg-sls]

Firstimecaddi - yes, it sounds like you are doing the right process for key and tumbler issue. I would be interested on a follow up post on how that job went and what you ran into during the install. As far as your point above concerning shuddering on an incline...this could be a sign that the fuel pump is weak. As ewill3rd suggests - when you get it running again, test out your fuel pressure at the rail. Have you ever replaced the fuel pump on this car?

[firstimecaddi]

no have not done the fuel pump since I've owned this car.(approx 3 yrs)

[ewill3rd]

Those are notorious for carbon track also, you could get shudder (misfire) under load (up a hill) from a carbon track issue.
A simple visual inspection of the plugs would confirm it. The affected plug and wire have to be replaced together.

I usually sell the whole set of plugs and wires for carbon track issues.

[greg-sls]

I think 45 to 50 psi at the rail is considered to be very good pressure. You can check this with the key "on" but engine not running. If it's lower than 35-40, it could be a sign of a weak pump. This assumes you have a fairly recent fuel filter installed too.

[firstimecaddi]

I replaced lock cylinder and it fired right up.
Will take a look at those plugs.

Thanks for the assistance.

[firstimecaddi]

well like I said the lock cylinder is in and it starts, but it seems like I have created another problem. I think that something has come undone, because there is some play in the steering shaft. I can wobble it around with minimum effort. There was none before. I noticed it when I started putting things together.