96 seville sts front driver door removal / window motor

[wongie]

Ok,

front driver window will not rolll down at all and no funny noises... it look like it wants to try, but only a little movement. it seem like it was getting slower for the past few months, now its dead. i cleaned the window switch... no luck, all other windows work fine from the driver side controls.

i tried removing the door panel using a Haynes manual and online help... http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereor...villeFSpkR.htm , no real help from the generic manual. I got the one small screw off by the inner door cover and got the right lower plastic clips/hinges off... but the door panel seems to be held on by something else other than plastic clips, anyone got ideas?

I'm guessing im gonna have to replace the motor, is it easy to remove with screws securing it or is mounted with ribbits?

[N*Caddy]

Easy as pie,

So, remove the door handle frame (just pry out is held in 6 spring loaded clips – 3 on to and 3 on the bottom). Be careful don’t apply more force than required (just apply force gradually until it snaps starting from a corner). Then don’t pull to much away the trim because there are 2 wires attached in the back - one to the door lock switch and another to the little light under the door handle).
Then take the switches module out (start from the back edge, insert a sharp tool between the switch module edge and the door panel pull forward and up to release), no need to disconnect the wires. Now on the lower back corner of the opening in the door panel under the door handle plastic frame inside locate a Philips head self tapping screw holding a bracket attached to the door panel. Take that screw out.
Now aim your attention to the triangular plastic trim on the inside side of the mirror. In the middle of that trim inside is a plastic clip (same idea as the clips holding the trunk lid liner). Pull the top tip (carefully and slowly) to pry the clip out of the door and release the plastic trim. But that plastic is not going out, the lower edge (on the inside) is attached to the door panel (so just release the triangular plastic trim from the door –should be obvious when the clip is out).
Now all it holds your door panel attached to the door are about 7 – 8 hooks pointed down and inserted in some slots in the door. So in order to release the door panel you need to PULL UP (understand PULL UP) for about 1 inch and then slightly inside (as in inside the car – as in pull the door panel away from the door) but please do understand PULL UP first (and then up and slightly away).If you don’t pull UP you will break 2-3 hooks (trust me). So please understand PULL UP first to raze the panel and the hooks out of the slots then pull away. The hooks are as I mentioned about 1 inch long so the panel should lift about that distance before pulling up and away.
So the door panel is loose but still can’t be detached fully because of the switches module and wires. You have to push the module thru the hole (that strip can bow slightly – you will see).
To mount follow the same steps but in reverse.

Also fill up in your UserCP the year and model of your Cadillac, helps people to help you better.

By the way the motor is held in 3 screws (easily accessible with the panel out). But you might have alignment issues of the rail. There are 2 adjustments screws down in the door (M10) at the bottom of the front and back rail.

[wongie]

ok... finally some great instructions! was able to remove the panel and replace the window motor, 3 bolts holding the motor down and 1 electrical connector, if the gears dont align up, you have to reconect the window switch and play with it until the gears line-up.

the only detail that was not mentioned above was there is a philips screw on the bottom left courner behind the door pocket... i found it when I pulled the panel off and broke it off the post.

most important... PULL UP first!

[N*Caddy]

Originally Posted by wongie

ok... finally some great instructions! was able to remove the panel and replace the window motor, 3 bolts holding the motor down and 1 electrical connector, if the gears dont align up, you have to reconect the window switch and play with it until the gears line-up.

the only detail that was not mentioned above was there is a philips screw on the bottom left courner behind the door pocket... i found it when I pulled the panel off and broke it off the post.

most important... PULL UP first!

Thad phillips screw is in a green plastic insert that comes out of the door, you should not need to take the screw out.
The pull up part is the key.

[gduchanin]

Hi... I read your reply on how to remove a door panel and I was very impressed with your detailed instruction. I have a 97 STS & my g/f just broke my driver's inner door handle -- it just flops around like a dead fish -- I can see broken cast metal at the lower hinge. Anyhow... I was wondering if you can tell me how to replace that driver's inner door handle. Thanks... In advance.

George

[N*Caddy]

The handle (actual chrome handle plus plastic backing) is attached to the door with 4(?) large rivets. Is fairly easy to remove the whole assembly, just drill the rivets out about 10 minutes for drilling the rivets out and riveting the new piece in place.

[gduchanin]

Thanks for the quick reply! I pried the trim off that held the power lock switch & light for the handle -- but it looked like the handle assembly was secured with screws from the back side. I guess that I mistook the rivets for screws. Who the hell uses rivets for something like that??? I have no experience riveting things together -- can this be done with the door panel in place -- or should I pull it off as you described for the 96 window motor? Can I use something other than rivets to secure the new assembly? My car is a 97 STS.

Thanks,


George

[Ranger]

You can usually use screws. I think they use rivets so they don't come loose from jarring. If you do use screws, I'd double nut them and tighten one against the other. That outa hold them. Might even put a drop of Locktite on the threads.

[gduchanin]

Thanks!!! That sounds like it should work. Is it possible to reach and drill out each rivet and then install the screw/nuts/locktite -- and the replacement door handle assembly -- with the panel in place -- or do I need to remove the panel?

[Ranger]

I think you'll have to remove the door panel.

[N*Caddy]

It makes the job so much easier with the panel removed, and the panel is so easy to remove that I would not even investigated if is possible to do the job with the panel on.
Rivets are light, cheap and don’t come loose, also lot easier to attach than a screw, so if I will run an assembly line I would chose rivets to screws every day.
But in your case, not having a rivet gun (and these are the largest size rivets you see in day to day life) and assuming time is not the essence M6 (?) screws should do it.

[gduchanin]

Thanks for the great advise, N*Caddy and Ranger. I don't have a manual for this and I'm more used to working on my 1970 Porsche 911T. The caddy might be faster in a straight line drag race -- but it sure is built funny. Thanks a lot guys!!!

[gduchanin]

Hey guys... my local junk man is asking a ridiculous price for the handle. Do you have a source for a handle or panel -- including the handle at a reasonable price? Once again... it's a 97 STS d/s front-inner door handle that's broken.


Thanks,

George

[Ranger]

What is a ridiculous price?

Might try one of the large salvage yards, like LKQ or Yancy, but then you have to add shipping.

Ebay maybe?

[N*Caddy]

Mine had 2 broken "ears" (for the frame mounts) and I got a replacement for $10. I am waiting for the nice weather and little slack in my work place hectic schedule to get it replaced.