Caliper in a bind! Please HELP!

[masterzelda]

I am currently trying to replace the rear calipers on my 1994 Seville STS. Long story short; the one on the driver's side is jammed; and I cannot remove it, even though I have followed the steps in the Hayes manual. The one on the passanger side comes off with ease; so I seem to be going through the motions correctly.

After inspecting the jammed caliper closely; I could see that the roter is warped, and the brake pads are compressed against it on both sides. The pads do not apper to be pressing on it evenly; and one of them appears to have a crack in it!

I only see three options I can take aside from having the vehicle towed to a shop. I could cyphen out most of the brak fluid in hopes that would release the tension between the brake pads. Another would be taking a strong screwdriver or chisel, and hammer; and attacking the brake pad that has the crack in it in the hope that I can break enough of the pad off to release the tension. The last option I see is to turn the car on, and put it in drive; and burn the remaining pads off! I think this option is the riskiest one; but I thought I would throw it out there anyway!

Any thoughts?

[JimD]

Originally Posted by masterzelda

I am currently trying to replace the rear calipers on my 1994 Seville STS....

I only see three options I can take aside from having the vehicle towed to a shop. I could cyphen out most of the brak fluid in hopes that would release the tension between the brake pads.

Have you opened the bleeder valve??

The last option I see is to turn the car on, and put it in drive; and burn the remaining pads off!

I can't see how that would 'burn' the rear pads off a front wheel drive car.

[masterzelda]

I would have to put the wheels back on; put it back on the ground. Driving it back and forth on the driveway is what I meant to say; but I was not clear enough. I was really tired when I started this thread!

Anyway; I disconnected the brake line; and that did not work. I will try disconnecting the bleeder valve next. If all else fails; It looks like I can remove the whole assembly from behind. This would of course remove the roter with all the brake components still stuck on it; but I could at least take it somewhere where they might be able to break it loose!

[Ranger]

I would have to put the wheels back on; put it back on the ground. Driving it back and forth on the driveway is what I meant to say; but I was not clear enough.

You would be driving back and forth till hell freezes over before you'd "burn" them off that way. With all the mounting bolts loose, try tapping upward on the bottom of the caliper with a hammer and you should slowly drive it up and off of the rotor.

[dkozloski]

Do not strike the caliper directly with anything other than a brass or plastic hammer or cushion the caliper with a block of hardwood or lead to prevent pounding it up like a sledgehammer mechanic.

[masterzelda]

I haven't made any real progress; but I did manage to break away most of the brake pad material by pounding the rotor with a rubber mallot. I relieved the pressure by bleeding out the fluid; but it is still stuck! However; since I went at it with the rubber mallot, I can slightly jiggle the caliper and rotor. Before it was like one solid piece!

I have a friend that is going to bring over some specialized tools to see if we can break it free. If we can't; I may have to remove the whole wheel hub assembly, and replace the whole system on that wheel! Can you say $$$$ ?!