Car won't start fuel problem

[Ranger]

I wouldn't worry about U codes. Post the P code so we know what it is.

[maiahsdad]

Originally Posted by N*Caddy

Yup!
Definitely the floater arm is bent.

I went BACK to the mechanic shop today. They went BACK into the trunk and returned to me indicating that the floater arm is NOT bent and that they're not going to look at it anymore.

I asked them; if I were to go to the dealer and they tell me the problem is that the floater arm is bent, would they take responsibility for the dealer's inspection charge ($95), and back out their labor, and replace the sending unit? They responded that they were DONE discussing it, and if the dealer says the floater arm is bent... then the DEALER bent it.

Is there anyway I can fix this (like bend the floater arm to it appropriate position?)

[N*Caddy]

P0231 - Fuel Pump Feedback Circuit Low Voltage
That does not sound very well but is not really concerning either. The load side (output) of the fuel pump relay) is sent to the fuel pump (the business end) and also an input to the PCM is tapped on this wire to monitor the voltage. If you get less than 2V for more than 1.3 seconds any time the pump should be on (i.e. that circuit should show 12V) the code is set (along with a message on the dash board). If the voltage returns to normal the code is set to history were will remain for 40 ignition cycles when is erased (if the problem does not return). So what to do…what to do…I would have first a good long look to the fuel pump relay, pin corrosion is a common problem. Just pull the relay out and using fine sandpaper clean the pins and the sockets where you insert it (a quick dirty trick is to remove and reconnect it several times but is not as clean as with sandpaper). Do the same with the fuel pump fuse. Clear the code and pay attention in the next couple days if is re-appearing. If back then I would inspect the PCM connector (same thing looking for corrosion).
Delphi is the exact pump installed from factory (although it could also be AC Delco) so looks like this is the second replacement pump on the car.
As for your fuel level issue I took a quick snap on mine while driving home:

Usually this is little past the limit when I go to fill up (I didn’t do-it today because tomorrow the gas price is dropping by 1.2 cents per litter – save, save, save). But I am pretty religious to fill up once I am ½ of the tank (gas is the coolant agent for the pump). This is the best preventive maintenance for the fuel pump.

Is there anyway I can fix this (like bend the floater arm to it appropriate position?)

Yes definitely, the arm has a small bent in the middle, observe how is moving and how you should bend-it to drop quicker. From what I recall you need co close the bend more (as in smaller angle - sharper bend).
And if they were the one providing the part then they are the one responsible for ANY issue with that part.

[the recluse]

The electrical aspect of the pump is really nothing more than a rheostat, right? Could the rheostat itself have failed, causing constant voltage across the entire circuit? A lot of times you don't really replace the sending unit on a pump, you kinda' "rebuild" it by replacing the wiring harness with a new one.

Any thoughts...

[N*Caddy]

Yeah that's what it is a rheostat, but the weak link is the slider. In times tends to lose the elasticity (that slider thing) and will start making intermittent contact with the coil so you experience the needle jump randomly. Always a new pump comes with the sending unit attached so even if the old one is still good (and usually is) why not replacing with new. But yeah instead of bending the arm another option is to snap in the old sending unit (rebuild is a little too much said as you properly suggested with the “”).

[the recluse]

My thought is, if the problem persists or changes, you are still narrowing down the "usual suspects". Right now we're looking somewhere between the pump and the gauge, if the sending unit can be omitted, we look to wiring and gauge, if wiring omitted, etc., etc., etc...

The upsetting back issue is the guy doesn't seem to have any mechanical sense or savvy (no offense there maiahsdad) and will wind up spending big money for something that should be troubleshot in no time...

[SRT80953]

Allrighty then...
All fixed. IGN 1 relay bad. I don't quite get it though.

[the recluse]

Ignition relay, makes sense. When you turn the key it turns on a series of electrical items including, in this case, your fuel pump.

[SRT80953]

Originally Posted by SRT80953

Allrighty then...
All fixed. IGN 1 relay bad. I don't quite get it though.

Quit again. Swapped relay pump runs. Anybody know why this relay would go bad? It lasted 3 days. Same code comes up,PC0231, fuel pump low voltage.
Any ideas?

[N*Caddy]

How you tested the relay?
Did you applied 12 V on the coil and checked for continuity?

How is the socket where you connect the relay, dirty, corrosion? Is the relay easily to push in or remove or is fairly had (almost you don’t have enough grip to pull it out).

[SRT80953]

It must be a loose wire or bad contact. I played with the wires to make sure they were all tight. I looked to see if all connectors were in good condition. Stuffed relay in and it started right up. I tried the original relay but it is BAD. Maybe the in and out cleaned up the contacts but who knows. I would feel better if I found something!

[maiahsdad]

Originally Posted by the recluse

The upsetting back issue is the guy doesn't seem to have any mechanical sense or savvy (no offense there maiahsdad) and will wind up spending big money for something that should be troubleshot in no time...

No offense taken. Mechanical sense or savviness isn't the largest of the issues, but time (I have to work long hours) and tools (I've never had to "tinker" before as I've always had warranties, but I WANTED this car) are an issue. And you're right... I DON'T have big bucks to spend.

Couple of things that may help.

1. From a FULL tank, I've driven it down to 17.8 Gal used on the LED panel. Gauge showing almost empty. Right on the last line. Went to Shell to put SIX gallons in to see what the gauge would do. Gauge went CLEAR over to FULL just from my adding 6 gallons from darn near EMPTY. So... It FLEW back over from just $15 of fuel added (93 Octane).

2. On the way to work today, CHECK ENGINE light came on. When I got to work I checked the code. It's the PCM P0442 (P0442 - Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Small Leak Detected). The gas cap is tight, so I guess there's a hole all of a sudden somewhere. No other codes except those few that say HISTORY.

Saga continues...

[the recluse]

Depends on whether or not this car has a purge valve or a vent valve. I myself am not sure, but again, troubleshooting will require a multimeter...