Nylon Fuel Rails Recall?

SPreston2001 · #1 (**permalink**) 02-10-09, 03:47 PM

Hey guys I've heard of some cars having a recall for the nylon fuel rails, and was wondering what years the recall covered? I have the black nylon fuel rail and wanted to get it replaced before it fails. Thanks

submariner409 · #2 (**permalink**) 02-10-09, 03:55 PM

I think that was a NHTSA safety recall - don't know what the expiration date was, but a slew of 90-something Northstars were done.

Google stuff like NHTSA, recalls, fuel rail safety........probably find it there, but the same thing is in here from time to time. I've seen it in CF at least 8 times in the last year and a half.

The black nylon lines (3) connect with quick-connects to a steel fuel rail on my car.

SPreston2001 · #3 (**permalink**) 02-10-09, 03:57 PM

As always thanks Sub!!

hackster · #4 (**permalink**) 02-10-09, 04:06 PM

Try this:04014C: Product Safety - Engine Fuel Rail-Replace - (Oct 1, 2004)

Subject: 04014C -- Engine Fuel Rail - Replace

Models: 1995-1997 Cadillac DeVille Concours, Seville, Eldorado

1996-1997 Cadillac DeVille

Equipped with 4.6L V8 (RPO LD8 - VIN Y; RPO L37 - VIN 9) Engine

1995-1997 Oldsmobile Aurora

Equipped with 4.0L V8 (RPO L47 - VIN C) Engine

SPreston2001 · #5 (**permalink**) 02-10-09, 06:49 PM

Ok thanks guys. Looks like im on my own when it comes to the fuel rail replacement. On a scale of 1-10 whats the difficulty of a fuel rail replacement? I can probably find one at my local scrap yard if im lucky or should I just buy a new rail? Also should I buy a rail with new injectors already installed or just replace the rail? Am I being a little paranoid? The nylon rail doesnt smell of fuel or anything, but I've heard horror stories about them leaking and catching fire. Thanks again.

submariner409 · #6 (**permalink**) 02-10-09, 07:29 PM

You're a gearhead........take a hard look, and if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

N*Caddy · #7 (**permalink**) 02-10-09, 07:52 PM

On a scale from 1 to 10 (where 1 is the easiest and 10 is the hardest) I would rate-it 3 (if so). The only difficult part is to disconnect fuel lines (that in case you don’t have a fuel line-disconnecting tool like me).
As long as the car has a 4.6l Northstar engine the fuel line should fit your car. Injectors I would keep mines if known to be good if not I would look to buy new.
Here are the fuel lines side by side:

Mine was leaking like a strainer, I was keep-replacing pieces on a monthly basis until the replacements started failing so I said NO MORE and replaced the fuel line with the much safer stainless steel.
Here are the steps:
1. Remove the beauty cover, the spark plug wiring plus anything else that might be in the way as in the picture bellow.

2. Release the pressure from the fuel line (use the little release valve at the end of the fuel line (looking like a slightly larger tire valve). I would recommend you to use a rag of some sort in front of the valve because it will spray gas al over the place (including in your face).
3. Disconnect the fuel lines from the incoming and return fuel lines (the disconnecting point is located somewhere behind the throttle)
4. Disconnect the electrical connections from the injectors (if the harness bothers you). That applies to the air intake too (gives you more space to work).
5. Disconnect the old fuel line (each injector has a clip that holds the fuel line on top of the injector attached to the intake manifold). The cross over section of the fuel line might have a ground wire attached to the engine in the ignition module area – disconnect that wire then remove the old fuel line.
6. It is recommended to replace the O-rings on each injector with new ones.

7. Attach the new fuel line. Observe the mounting points are different, the new mounting points are the 4 studs holding the beauty cover. Secure the fuel line with 4 nuts (one on each lug) as shown in the picture bellow.

8. Connect the fuel line with the fuel lines coming from the tank (careful not to kink them).
9. Reattach the spark plug wiring and all the hardware removed (see picture above).
10.Reattach the beauty cover.

11. Put the key to ON and keep it like that for 5-7 seconds before starting the car (gives a chance to the fuel pump to restore the pressure).

See my fuel line story here (97 N* Shaky idle).

SPreston2001 · #8 (**permalink**) 02-10-09, 08:02 PM

Thanks N*Caddy great write-up. I will definetely use this once my stainless steel rail arrives.

**Ranger** · #9 (**permalink**) 02-10-09, 09:55 PM

You have nylon rails on a 2000? I thought they had gone to steel in 2000.

97EldoCoupe · #10 (**permalink**) 02-10-09, 11:27 PM

No they still had plastic rails- I believe they were all plastic in 2000- not nylon. Next time I go into the shop I'll take a look at the rail once again.

**Ranger** · #11 (**permalink**) 02-11-09, 12:18 PM

Pretty sure my '02 SLS had a black steel rail. Maybe they changed in '01 or '02.

SPreston2001 · #12 (**permalink**) 02-11-09, 12:46 PM

Now that I think of it, maybe my rail is black plastic and not nylon. I still want to go with a stainless rail for the added safety.

hackster · #13 (**permalink**) 02-12-09, 04:57 PM

Hey spreston2001 I would take subs advice and if it aint broke leave it alone, the rails would leak/crack a few here and there and for all the ones that are out there its not that bad, also alot of the fuel lines running to the tank are plastic/nylon no one is switching those to steel or stainless, put the cover back on and drive the car...