1990 Seville 4.5 - My drivers side CV joint went bad at 64K miles so I had to replace it this weekend. This is my first time with a FWD vehicle and first CV joint, so I hesitate to call this a 'walkthrough' since I probably didnt do it exactly to 'professional' standards. This is more of DIY first-timers account of my experience. It wasnt fun, but next time it will be easier.
If youve got experience and you see something here that you dont like, feel free to chime in!! I'd appreciate it!!
Please refer to the manuals!! Haynes/FSM.. Cautions, warnings, tips/tricks, and advice will not be included here!!
Degreaser, Brake Cleaner, Liquid Wrench, Bearing Grease, Brake Grease
6" Puller, ChannelLocks, 1/2" Ratchet, 3/8 Ratchet, 18mm Open-End, Flathead Screwdriver, 13mm socket, 18mm socket, 36mm socket, 1/2'' extension, Cotter Pins
1" x 3ft EMT(breaker bar), Ball joint separator, prybar, mini-sledge, tire iron, 1/2" Torque Wrench, Claw hammer
Now onto the 'fun'
Loosen the hub nut and lugs before lifting the wheel (liquid wrench)
Remove caliper and hang it from the coils spring (13mm socket)
Remove caliper mounting bracket and brake rotor(2 bolts 18mm socket and extension)
Remove lower ball joint. (1 18mm nut and cotter pin) Pry apart with ball joint tool. Use the breaker bar with one end below the frame rail and the other on top of the control arm to push down control arm to pull the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle.
Use the puller to push the axle stub out of the back of the hub assembly
Get a prybar between the trans and the inner CV housing and pop that sucker out!
Slide the new assembly onto the trans output shaft. There is a groove on the side of it where you can tap it in with a flathead screwdriver.
Put some grease on the outer end of the shaft and slide it in to the back of the hub. It takes some muscle to pull the knuckle out far enough to clear the end of the shaft.
Use the breaker bar again to push the control arm down while pushing the steering knuckle back into position to get the balljoint stud back thru its hole. This was a real pain in the ass. A third hand would have helped alot. This was the hardest part in my opinion. Now tighten the nut on top and insert a new cotter pin.
Tighten the hub nut temporarily to 74lbs then put the rotor, caliper bracket, and caliper back on in that order. Torque the bracket bolts to 83lbs.
Re-install the wheel and lugs, then set the car down and tighten the hub nut to 183lbs and the lugs to 100
Last but not least, install tall-boy and torque to 24oz