Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics
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Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; 1990 Seville 4.5 - My drivers side CV joint went bad at 64K miles so I had to replace it ...
  1. #1
    Sevillian273's Avatar
    Sevillian273 is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Post Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics

    1990 Seville 4.5 - My drivers side CV joint went bad at 64K miles so I had to replace it this weekend. This is my first time with a FWD vehicle and first CV joint, so I hesitate to call this a 'walkthrough' since I probably didnt do it exactly to 'professional' standards. This is more of DIY first-timers account of my experience. It wasnt fun, but next time it will be easier.

    If youve got experience and you see something here that you dont like, feel free to chime in!! I'd appreciate it!!

    Please refer to the manuals!! Haynes/FSM.. Cautions, warnings, tips/tricks, and advice will not be included here!!

    Tools:

    Degreaser, Brake Cleaner, Liquid Wrench, Bearing Grease, Brake Grease


    6" Puller, ChannelLocks, 1/2" Ratchet, 3/8 Ratchet, 18mm Open-End, Flathead Screwdriver, 13mm socket, 18mm socket, 36mm socket, 1/2'' extension, Cotter Pins


    1" x 3ft EMT(breaker bar), Ball joint separator, prybar, mini-sledge, tire iron, 1/2" Torque Wrench, Claw hammer


    Now onto the 'fun'


    Loosen the hub nut and lugs before lifting the wheel (liquid wrench)


    Remove caliper and hang it from the coils spring (13mm socket)


    Remove caliper mounting bracket and brake rotor(2 bolts 18mm socket and extension)

    <
    Remove lower ball joint. (1 18mm nut and cotter pin) Pry apart with ball joint tool. Use the breaker bar with one end below the frame rail and the other on top of the control arm to push down control arm to pull the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle.


    Use the puller to push the axle stub out of the back of the hub assembly


    Get a prybar between the trans and the inner CV housing and pop that sucker out!


    Slide the new assembly onto the trans output shaft. There is a groove on the side of it where you can tap it in with a flathead screwdriver.


    Put some grease on the outer end of the shaft and slide it in to the back of the hub. It takes some muscle to pull the knuckle out far enough to clear the end of the shaft.


    Use the breaker bar again to push the control arm down while pushing the steering knuckle back into position to get the balljoint stud back thru its hole. This was a real pain in the ass. A third hand would have helped alot. This was the hardest part in my opinion. Now tighten the nut on top and insert a new cotter pin.


    Tighten the hub nut temporarily to 74lbs then put the rotor, caliper bracket, and caliper back on in that order. Torque the bracket bolts to 83lbs.


    Re-install the wheel and lugs, then set the car down and tighten the hub nut to 183lbs and the lugs to 100


    Last but not least, install tall-boy and torque to 24oz

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  3. #2
    Necrosan is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics

    Haha, I love that last step.

  4. #3
    ehall's Avatar
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    Re: Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics

    nice and useful write-up thanks

  5. #4
    iametarq's Avatar
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    Re: Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics

    Nice to see what the shop did when I paid them for the labor. I don't feel comfortable with that, but now that I see it, maybe I could have done it. I don't have the puller or ball joint separator though. Excellent write up, and final step!

  6. #5
    drewsdeville is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics

    Quote Originally Posted by iametarq View Post
    Nice to see what the shop did when I paid them for the labor. I don't feel comfortable with that, but now that I see it, maybe I could have done it. I don't have the puller or ball joint separator though. Excellent write up, and final step!
    Neither the puller nor the separator are required

    The ball joint can be removed without a separator/fork, in fact, I recommend not using one. The problem with the forks is you have to be real careful not to damage the boot around the ball joint, otherwise you will be back there a year later replacing it due to water/dirt intrusion. I recommend setting up a jack under the brake rotor, supporting the whole assembly. Then grab a nice 3-4 ft prybar and pry down on the control arm and the ball joint should pop out, damage free.

  7. #6
    Krashed989's Avatar
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    Re: Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics

    Nice write up man!... What I usually do to get the axle nut off is use the jack on the handle of the breaker bar. Just a way to make it easier.

  8. #7
    Sevillian273's Avatar
    Sevillian273 is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics

    Quote Originally Posted by drewsdeville View Post
    Neither the puller nor the separator are required

    The ball joint can be removed without a separator/fork, in fact, I recommend not using one. The problem with the forks is you have to be real careful not to damage the boot around the ball joint, otherwise you will be back there a year later replacing it due to water/dirt intrusion. I recommend setting up a jack under the brake rotor, supporting the whole assembly. Then grab a nice 3-4 ft prybar and pry down on the control arm and the ball joint should pop out, damage free.
    As a matter of fact, I did tear the boot with the fork. So ill be greasing it monthly until I work up the gumption to replace it. The prybar/jack method is a great idea! Ill remember that. As for the puller, I agree, I could have done without it. That thing slid out like butter!

    FWIW: I got the bj fork(lol) for 4.99, the pullers(set of 3) for 18.99, and the torque wrench for 16.99 at Harbor Freight Tools. Wicked cheap!!

    iametarq, Just curious; what did you pay to have that done? I wasnt too comfy with it either but I had no choice since I work in commercial construction and in this economy well... ya know...

    btw, the forum only allows 18 pics per post so go here to see all the pics I took: http://s106.photobucket.com/albums/m280/merc892003/

  9. #8
    drewsdeville is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics

    Quote Originally Posted by Sevillian273 View Post
    As a matter of fact, I did tear the boot with the fork. So ill be greasing it monthly until I work up the gumption to replace it. The prybar/jack method is a great idea! Ill remember that. As for the puller, I agree, I could have done without it. That thing slid out like butter!

    FWIW: I got the bj fork(lol) for 4.99, the pullers(set of 3) for 18.99, and the torque wrench for 16.99 at Harbor Freight Tools. Wicked cheap!!

    iametarq, Just curious; what did you pay to have that done? I wasnt too comfy with it either but I had no choice since I work in commercial construction and in this economy well... ya know...

    btw, the forum only allows 18 pics per post so go here to see all the pics I took: http://s106.photobucket.com/albums/m280/merc892003/
    That IS cheap, I gotta start shopping there more often. Come to think of it, I did pick up a slide hammer for a good price there 2 years ago or so...

  10. #9
    Chuwee's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Re: Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics

    Quote Originally Posted by Sevillian273 View Post
    As a matter of fact, I did tear the boot with the fork. So ill be greasing it monthly until I work up the gumption to replace it. The prybar/jack method is a great idea! Ill remember that. As for the puller, I agree, I could have done without it. That thing slid out like butter!
    Another route you could have done was undoing the strut nuts instead of the ball joint. I have done both ways but not on a caddy yet so not to sure if the strut method will work but it looks like it will. Also I would like to say very nice write up and thanks for the pics but you did not mentioned if you replaced the seals as well? If you don't replace seals you will have to do this all over again in the near future!

    Again nice write up and pics and as for pricing will I don't much care for shops cause they over price their work anyway. I just did the rack, front tie rod ends, timing cover seals with water pump exchange, oil pan seal and fixed my steering column bearing fairly cheap:

    Rack and Pinion - $89 with core exchange (lifetime)
    Tie rod ends - $21 each (lifetime)
    Timing cover seals - $15
    Oil pan seal - $60
    Crank pull (broke when taking off) - $40 (from a yard plus column bearing)

    Can you imagine if I would have taken this to a shop definitely in the thousands but I did for under $300. Now I have the rear brakes, ball joints, and tie rod ends to do and those parts will be $136 total (lifetime parts).

  11. #10
    Sevillian273's Avatar
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    Re: Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics

    Quote Originally Posted by Chuwee View Post
    did not mentioned if you replaced the seals as well? If you don't replace seals you will have to do this all over again in the near future!
    The only seals I came across were the one at the trans output which I did not disturb, and the one at the outer end of the shaft where it meets the bearing assembly which was in good condition so I reused it. The old seals only had 64000 miles on them. I guess Ill replace them when I do the ball joint that I mangled...

    Heres what I did to the ball joint:


    heres one of the outer seal:

  12. #11
    drewsdeville is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics

    Quote Originally Posted by Chuwee View Post
    Another route you could have done was undoing the strut nuts instead of the ball joint. I have done both ways but not on a caddy yet so not to sure if the strut method will work but it looks like it will. Also I would like to say very nice write up and thanks for the pics but you did not mentioned if you replaced the seals as well? If you don't replace seals you will have to do this all over again in the near future!
    I wouldn't recommend this as undoing those bolts on these cars will throw off your alignment. You will notice that those holes in the strut body are slotted, for adjustment. You can kind of get them close to the same position by measuring the angle on say the brake rotor, but it won't be correct. Undo those bolts and the job will cost you the parts AND an alignment

  13. #12
    Chuwee's Avatar
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    Re: Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics

    There is a trick you can do to keep the alignment and that is to mark a line on the current position and when you replace just align the marks. Or if your like me I bought the life time alignment and not worry about it ever again

  14. #13
    Chuwee's Avatar
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    Re: Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics

    Quote Originally Posted by Sevillian273 View Post
    The only seals I came across were the one at the trans output which I did not disturb, and the one at the outer end of the shaft where it meets the bearing assembly which was in good condition so I reused it. The old seals only had 64000 miles on them. I guess Ill replace them when I do the ball joint that I mangled...
    I'm sorry I was talking about old school stuff but realized when I started working on mine that those wheel bearing are lift time units and all in one. So no need to replace unless it was bad...my bad

  15. #14
    iametarq's Avatar
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    Re: Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics

    Sevillian, I believe I paid $130 parts and labor. I can look at my receipts, which are at home.

  16. #15
    Krashed989's Avatar
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    Re: Seville CV Axle Replacement - w/Pics

    Quote Originally Posted by drewsdeville View Post
    Neither the puller nor the separator are required

    The ball joint can be removed without a separator/fork, in fact, I recommend not using one. The problem with the forks is you have to be real careful not to damage the boot around the ball joint, otherwise you will be back there a year later replacing it due to water/dirt intrusion. I recommend setting up a jack under the brake rotor, supporting the whole assembly. Then grab a nice 3-4 ft prybar and pry down on the control arm and the ball joint should pop out, damage free.
    I tried it that way before and I was struggling with it for some time. The trick on the stubborn ones seems to be just giving the knuckle a few whacks with a ball peen hammer (next to where the balljoint stud goes through).

    Quote Originally Posted by Chuwee
    There is a trick you can do to keep the alignment and that is to mark a line on the current position and when you replace just align the marks. Or if your like me I bought the life time alignment and not worry about it ever again
    Bright colored spray paint works really good.

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