Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, Rear shock replacement (advice, tips?) in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; They are the CVRSS shocks, i just got extremely lucky to find them at that price. After i was told ...
They are the CVRSS shocks, i just got extremely lucky to find them at that price. After i was told i need to replace the shocks i went online and after a lot time and googling i found the monroe shocks listed on ebay. The title just said "cadillac strut" i found them by just googling the monroe part number, someone had them listed as buy it now, one for $18 the other for $9. First i checked to make sure the model numbers were correct and if they were used or not. It looked like they were selling items from an estate, no clue what they were for/worth...
I clicked buy it now and had my paypal info in in about 30 seconds, lol.
Huh, and I thought I found the deal of my life replacing all 4 struts for just a little under $3800.
60K miles past I have 4 all shocks for exchange. that is why I found this forum because I looking for shocks at least for front but I am not sure which one are recommended.
So far I found thet dealer sell for about $500 each the DELPHI shocks (original) but like you see they are not good at all if they was good only for 50-60K miles and they are so expensive not worth that money lol.
I looking for good replacements / after market once if some body can recommend, so far I know someone said he instaled after market shocks in older version 2005 shocks where after 1000 miles light come on that the shocks doesnt hold anaf stability.
I looking for as much best brand are recommended shocks which company designed their shocks especially for escalade and with almost the same manufacturers delphi parameters where sensors will work with shocks as they should.
i hope this doenst sound like i am hijackign this thread but saw someone mention buying used
my 2000 sls needs frotn struts soon problay before iwnter hits
and i was thinkng i might just have to go passive becosue i dotn have 500 to spend or so on a monroe strut so i was thini of going passive wich would cost me like 313 for a set i think
but was also thinkign over going used
but would you really recomend doing this and if so what do i want to look for i see used strust from like 1999s and 2001s for like 130 140 dollars wich seems really hi and then for like 100 dollars i can get them from high mile cars but i dont know
would you guys recomend going used or passive if you had to make the choise
someone told me that the front stuts dont have air in the them so if i wnet passiv ei owudlnt really notice much difrence
like now with the frotn strust they have 126k on them
if i went passive i imagine the new ones would ride alot better then the oens on there
but is it going to handle bad with passive
does it really lower the car once it goes over a surten speed with OEM ? or what is the point to kee oem ?
Here is to understand what the OEM struts do.
Any strut is a cylinder/piston assembly, basically 2 chambers filled with a fluid (some ort of oil). When moving up and down the piston moves inside the cylinder and the volume report of the 2 chambers differ. As a result the fluid in the chamber that is shrinking in volume is forced to pass to the chamber that is expanding (obviously the overall volume stays the same). To pass from one chamber to another the fluid is forced thro a valve. Now in a passive setup this valve is spring-loaded thus it opposes with the same amount of force to the rushing fluid.
Both the front and the rear OEM struts have solenoid valves electronically controlled by the CVRSS module. As a result an electronic module now replaces that spring.
When you are driving slowly over a bumpy road you would like that valve widely opened so the fluid passes easily between the two chambers so you have a soft and smooth drive. But when you drive fast and you turn sharply you would like that valve to be almost close so the fluid transfer is very difficult thus the strut is stiff (less body roll, the tire is held against the road not allowed to bounce up and down as the spring would like to).
Obviously the spring has one setting and usually is compromise between handling and comfort. Basically is not good at high speed (to soft) but pretty hard at slow speed. Depending if is intended for a cruse car or a sporty one is either on the soft or on the hard side. Now you understand why BMW suspension is pretty hard (because they want people to believe their cars are sporty, not the case but this is beside the point here).
The OEM struts are soft when gently driving alone and very stiff when they need to, say you throw the car in a sharp bend, that’s why you pay $600 for one.
Only the rear ones have a 3-rd chamber witch fills up with compressed air. This act as an addition to the rear springs. If you add weight to the car (rear of the car) the spring will compress. The compressor will pump some air into the struts to rise the car (basically biff up the spring). The car does NOT lowers with speed, just maintains the same level of the back all the time.
People talking about pink Cadillacs pimps and soft boaty cars designed for old peoples, people who generally never been in a Cadillac, and usually drive a Japanese mass produced model with 40 stickers and none of the stuff written on the stickers in the car, people with ordinary passive struts, will tell you your car is too soft. That means is more comfortable than their car because it has the ability to adjust the stiffness of the struts as required. When the car is OFF the solenoid valves are wide open. So if you bounce the car up and down to test the struts (as you are use with the passive ones) the car will feel very soft (as in really bad struts). Is not the case, is just that the electronics are off because the car is stationary. If you want to test a Cadillac suspension you need to drive the car, no way around.
Automobile(s): 1997 ETC (GAVE TO STEPSON 2011), 2000 DTS (RIP)
FOUNTAIN HILLS, AZ
Re: Rear shock replacement (advice, tips?)
Pretty good summary N*Caddy - definitely lots of good info!
My struts seem to be getting worn - soft all the time - not blown or throwing codes - the car is just getting boaty feeling at 155K miles, which I don't think is unreasonable. So I've been wondering what's going on - do you think my hydraulic fluid in the struts is maybe getting low after 12+ years? Any way to maybe drill a hold and add some fluid and then plug the hole? I know that sounds crazy, but these things are so expensive, it seems like a waste to replace them when they're fine mechanically and electronically, but maybe it's just that the oil's a little "low on the dipstick".
n-caddy are you saying that if i go passibe in the front that it will feel softer ? and smoother or am i confused about what you are saying here
so i dont drive my caddy like its a sports car i like my seville for the smooth and more luxary sadan marshmellow ride but without the big bulky car the sevill eis why i got it
but now i have to choose iehtere getting 2 passive front struts or
getting 1 used passenger side strut since i cant aford ot buy it brand new just odnt have 550 dollar splus 75 to pay the mechanic to hav eit put in
so i fi got used i could get the one side that i need the drives side is ok the passanger side they said is blown out
so if i went used i could get a used strut with like 100k or less on it for like 130 dollars thens spend 75 to put it in so im at like 210 to replace it with a used one
or i can go passiv on both sides for 290 plus 150 labor
so thats what im really confused about should i just get used
and if so should i look for someting with lower miles or does lower miles not really mean anyting should i get one from a 2002 or where they made better in a difrant year ?
There are 3 reasons the struts go bad (as in become loose):
1. Oil leaks out (extremely obvious and pretty rare)
2. The seal between the two chambers (the piston seal) leaks so your fluid transfer happens not only via the valve, will also go between the seal (thus increasing the flow, thus the struts get more and more loose)
3. Valve failure, will not limit the flow properly thus loose struts.
Most common problem is no 2.
Do not under any circumstance drill holes in to the struts as they might be under pressure (and usually they are).
So to understand the difference between the OEM and aftermarket struts:
- Aftermarket have the spring loaded valve
- OEM has an “electronic” spring (i.e. a solenoid valve controlled by the CVRSS module).
You replace the struts you just bypass all the electronics that works to controls the solenoid valves. The solenoid valves openings (what translates in strut stiffens) is controlled based on the following inputs:
- Suspension (up/down) travel for that specific wheel and in respect with the other wheels;
- Steering wheel position;
- Acceleration: longitudinal, lateral and yaw (witch depends a lot on speed);
Think like this, you travel in straight line on a smooth road, all of a sudden one wheel hits a pothole.
1. The wheel goes over the edge of the path hole. You want the wheel to descend as fast as possible over that edge so the “air” time is minim. A wheel hovering above the ground is useless, no brake, no acceleration, no direction. So the strut should be as loose as possible in this stage so the spring can push the wheel on the ground as fast as possible.
2. The wheel hits the other edge of the pothole and needs to go up over the ledge. Well with a stiff strut the wheel will hit pretty hard the edge and lot of the energy will be transferred to the body (thus very hard ride). You would also like the strut to be as loose as possible. But once the wheel goes over the edge well due to the momentum the wheel keeps going up (again air time – no good). This time you would like the strut to be as stiff as possible to fight the wheel momentum.
3. Eventually the wheel comes back and hits the ground, what happens with a ball when you do this? That’s right bounces back. You don’t want that, you want the wheel to go down and stick.
The electronics consider all these and adjust the valves as required. A spring valve has no adjusting feature always have the same stiffens.
Example 2, you drive in straight line and all of a sudden you steer sharply. The car will have the tendency to lean outside the turn (body roll). The CVRSS module knows the speed, notice the steering position changes very quickly in a certain direction, thus will stiffen the valves in the struts on the outside of the turn so the struts are fighting to keep the body roll in check. It also reads the accelerometers and compares the readings against what is theoretically expected for that particular speed, on that road surface (yes the ’97 and newer cars monitor also the so-called road texture). When the readings are off the module knows the car is in an understeering/oversteering situation. The CVRSS stiffens the struts (safety over comfort) and the EBTCM module engages the pump to increase the brake line pressure to the wheels that need to be stopped in order to get the car out of the slide. This is when you see on your IPC “STABILITY ENGAGED”.
You probably assume those cars with buttons for suspension stiffens (Comfort/Sport) and some buttons like Dry road/Whet road/Ice (for the ABS settings) are pretty advanced. Well Cadillac does not need the driver to set all these, it automatically detects these and adjusts accordingly. Now who’s more advanced I would ask? So buttons are just bling bling. Back to my “favorite” car maker BMW, they introduced the so called “adaptive drive” just about 2-3 years ago as super extra option that most of the cars don’t have-it. Cadillac has it in one form or another since the early ‘90s.
The main difference between magnaride and solenoid valve (so called CVRSS) struts is the valve/liquid combination.
The magnaride struts don’t have an adjustable valve but a fixed opening orifice. The key in the struts is the fluid. The fluid (some kind of an oil thing) has the ability to vary the viscosity when a magnetic field is applied. The strut has an electromagnetic coil in the opening area and when energized the fluid gets thicker and thicker. So it varies from oil like consistency to a gel like consistency depending on the intensity of the magnetic field.
A thicker fluid flows slower than a thinner one thro the same orifice. Hence you get stiffness variation on the strut.
Why is magnaride better than CVRSS:
1. Performance - the solenoid valves has a certain delay, is not reacting instantly, not as fast as the magnetic fluid.
2. Reliability – the valve can and will fail in time, is just a mechanical component with moving parts, the magnaride strut has NO moving parts (for flow control).
Also GM introduced this suspension in the early ‘00s on Corvette and STS (a 4 door saloon!!!!). Nobody noticed this, now the Lamborghini and Audi just introduced this everybody praise these very “advanced” cars. One example that really bugs me in particular is the Audi R8. I remember hearing reviews when it was introduced (1 year or so ago) about what an 25 century suspension has and what an engine with 400HP!!! (big wow factor). Well what’s the big deal, Cadillac has this for years and say Cadillac STS-V at that time (a 4 door sedan!!) had 467 HP (also see the CTS-V with 556HP). I still like to pint out the MOST powerful BMW you can get with the V10 engine has only 500 HP (and that only when you press the “M” button).
Can not tell much about it. If they are equipped with solenoid valves then as long as the quality is OK I see no issue. Make sure the electronic part is not just a 5K 2W-3W resistor tricking the CVRSS module that is connected to a solenoid valve.
Speaking about solenoid valves, there is a 4th failure type: The solenoid valve (basically a coil and a reverse current protection diode) may burn out. The CVRSS module detects no current flow to the output controlling that strut/valve and send an error code to the IPC (hence the message “SERVICE SUSPENSION”).
This Human in my seat right now is still a bit confused
N-Caddy would you recomend getting a used strut from a bone yard or of ebay from a car that has under a 100k on it over getting the passive conversion
thisi s what i am down to and i can iehter get the passive conversion
or i can buy a used strut from a 2002 that i saw on ebay i think with like 69k on it
for like 139
would you recomend doing that or going passive
aslong as the strut is good not leaking or anyting
would i noticed a difrence in ride between a new one and a used one or would i not notice that much of a difrance
Is difficult to give you an advice on this.
Is a toss of a coin with used parts, 99% of the struts and engines for sale are from an under 60K car (if you get my drift). On the other hand the aftermarket parts are made to be cheaper than OEM so price was the main criteria when designed. So you get aftermarket struts you know exactly what you get, a mediocre ride but you know at least 1-2 years will be fine (is a new part after all). You get used OEM, well you know for sure they will fit, you get exactly what was designed for the car but is like a Russian roulette, might work 1 month might work for years. Depends on how much of a gambling personality are you.
What I usually do, I buy parts WAY in advance before I am squeezed with the door and I have no choice. Struts usually can wait for months, so make calls, search on Internet (e-bay and such) to find a better deal. No matter how bad you need the part there is always someone out there trying to get rid of the parts. My motto is plan ahead…
Take the opportunity to save some money while you are researching and maybe in few months you even have the founds to get new ones (time works in your favor).
One year ago I bought a brand new headlight assembly for $5! Did I need one? Definitely NO, but heck for this price you can not pass it. Try to locate somebody who works for GM they have an employ discount (5%-10%), or find a shop willing to help you, some shops get a substantial discount from GM (something in the 20%-30% range) and have the shop buy the parts for you. Wait until you locate a true under 40K car that was wrecked in a crash. These are the kind of things I would do.
i called around and i found a few i found a 1999 with 40k a 1998 that was wreacked at 19k and a few 2000 and 2002 s with 50k on them
what are the years that i want ot look for
i think i heard someone say once that 1999-2002 is the year i would want to look for for suspension parts for my 2000
but will 1998 or 2003 and newer front struts work on my 2000
also are the struts the same in the sls ans the STS or or do i only want to take struts taht where on a SLS if it is going into a SLS or will they work if they came from a STS