Front Hub/Wheel Bearing Assembly Bolts?

[iametarq]

My front groaning noise, which coincidentally started right when I got new tires has been diagnosed by the dealer, as my front right bearing. I thought it was the tire being bad for some reason, but its good.

The GM Part number they gave me is: 12429204

I did a quick check on GM Parts Direct:

GM PART # 12429204
CATEGORY: Front Wheel Hub
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $346.49
OUR PRICE: $180.18

I have replaced bearings before on my Chrylser it was a PITA. It had inverted Star Heads. I had to buy special sockets for it...and they nearly stripped the heads.

R&R Questions: How are the Seville hubs attached? Are there there hex headed bolts? The FSM does not indicate this. Am I forced to use the special hub removal tool listed by the FSM? If I don't will the hub just pull out leaving the tip of the axle resting on the suspension parts?

There is also a 12429205, which says it has been replaced by a newer number: 88964168 is for the 01-04 Sevilles...

Thanks in advance! I will replace this while I am vacation after Christmas...and then I'll probably end up doing my Driver's side to rid myself of the occasional C1225 Wheel spin excessive code.

[derone]

I think they were regular 12mm bolts, the axle nut I think was 34mm. Use deep well sockets due to clearance issues with the CV joint. No puller needed for the half-shaft... Rockauto dot com has the best prices for the hubs.

[iametarq]

Originally Posted by derone

I think they were regular 12mm bolts, the axle nut I think was 34mm. Use deep well sockets due to clearance issues with the CV joint. No puller needed for the half-shaft... Rockauto dot com has the best prices for the hubs.

That would make so very happy if those are the bolt sizes!

I checked Rock Auto, wasn't sure which one to get, but their AC Delco was $250!! There was a National brand for $130-ish...but no photo on one of them. I will ask the dealer if they'll price match within $10 or so...

[Ranger]

Check http://www.gmotors.com and be sure to compare the prices INCLUDING shipping.

Derone is correct, all hex head bolts, no Torx.

[finerwoodworking]

I just did mine, wasn’t to bad of a job. Found a nice write up here http://www.autopartsdirecttoyou.info/?p=12.
I think they also had the part for around 88.00 with a 2-year warranty. Look on line you can get it cheaper.

[N*Caddy]

Just replaced my left front hub today ($456, Ouch!). The one of the right was the first to go some 2 years and 60K ago ($277 at that time same shop).

[iametarq]

Ok before I order: Gmotors.com beat GM Parts Direct by $3 after shipping: $216.22

My local parts store has the unit for $120.00 which does include the plug for the ABS sensor. Is that the same sensor that does wheel speed? Is there any reason to NOT go with a GM Part for this? I'd love to save the extra $100. And put that toward a Left Side one as well.

Thanks in advance.

[Ranger]

Yeah, the wheel speed sensor in in the hub. When I did the hub & bearing on my '92 I used a Napa part. If it is a quality bearing I see no reason not to use it. I wouldn't use one from AutoZone.

[kdsevillle]

Thxs for the site woodworking. I just spent 1200 on front hubs/right tire rod. Now I can get these for 89 a piece!!! That's good cause I'm an 18 year old kid starting College, thank you !!!!!

[Renew82]

I just did that job on the left front of my 03 STS. It was very easy. I got a Timken hub/bearing assembly from Autozone and they matched the price of $76.00 that I found on Amazon. Their usual price is $169.00. It was complete with the ABS sensor. Remove the brake caliper and pad holder, remove the axle nut and tap the axle with a rubber mallet to loosen it from the hub splines, remove the three bolts holding the hub in place, ( turning the steering wheel full right and full left makes it easier to access the bolts. I used a 8in extension and a ratchet) and work it off the axle. Should not take much more than an hour.

[iametarq]

It looks like I am going to order the one from the site posted above. They have a lifetime warranty on them, and my local shop's $120 part does not, and only has a 1 year warranty.

[iametarq]

Originally Posted by derone

I think they were regular 12mm bolts, the axle nut I think was 34mm. Use deep well sockets due to clearance issues with the CV joint. No puller needed for the half-shaft... Rockauto dot com has the best prices for the hubs.

I should have re-read this today before Sears closed at 7pm tonight. I thought it was a 32mm nut at the end, and it's gotta be the 34mm. I got the wheel off only to discover I have the wrong socket, my largest is 32mm. I will have to finish this one tomorrow after work.

[Dadillac]

When I did my front hubs I bought cheapy 33mm and 34mm sockets. I wasn't sure what size it was. The 33mm is the exact size but was difficult getting it on the nut. I used the 34mm and had no problems. Here's a tip to make removing the nut easier. Remove the center cap from the wheel and lower the jack to let the tire rest on the ground. Now through the center cap hole loosen the hub nut. Very easy and no fighting with the rotor.

Don

[iametarq]

I'm going to do it tonight. Can I do that? I have the 7 spoke rims, I don't think I can fit the 34mm that I bought through the center hole. I'll take a look because that is a great idea!

The FSM says to shove a fancy rod into the air vents on the rotor.

[finerwoodworking]

Mine bearing nut came off with a impact wrench with everything off. Don’t over tighten the nut when you put it back on, don’t remember the torque at this point. They say it’s the number one cause of premature bearing failure.