Complete LED interior with pictures
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  1. #1
    N*Caddy's Avatar
    N*Caddy is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Lightbulb Complete LED interior with pictures

    After about one year worth of weekends spent soldering I finally finished the LED job on my car (kind of). So far I replaced:
    - All small light bulbs from the HU (15 LEDs). I had to modify the board by adding some appropriate size resistors replacing some jumper wires – Fig 2
    - All small light bulbs from the Climate Control Module (8 LEDs), same idea as the HU (replacing/ adding resistors on the PCB in such a way to properly balance the light intensity) – Fig. 2
    - All light assemblies on the INFO module above HU (3 LEDs). In this case I replaced removed the light bulbs from the plastic sockets and used one single LED to replace each small light bulb. The resistor was impossible to go inside the socket so I place-it in the back of the socket - Fig 1.2.
    - PRN321 backlight and the lights inside the Heated Seats buttons (4LEDs + 2 LEDs). The PRN321 light is made from 2 LEDs mounted on one socket (similar idea with the INFO module lights just used 2 LEDs end to end facing the sides). The heated seats buttons incorporate one LED and one resistor – Fig. 2
    - All 4 light bulbs from the doors panels above the window switches (4 LEDs), I here I use the same idea as for the Info Module (same plastic socket with light bulb assembly) - Fig 1.2 & Fig 5
    - Both under dash board lights (I used 2 x 16 LEDs). The LEDs are mounted on a PCB - two rows of 8 LEDs per light assembly with the resistor mounted on the backside. The PCB physical dimensions are exactly as the light bulb it replaces – Fig 6.
    - All the lights inside the headlight switch assembly (3 LEDs). Same idea as the Info Module and Door panels – Fig 1.2 and - Fig 7
    - All ceiling interior lights (4 x 9 LED). In this case I used one small PCB to mount the LEDs on with the exact dimensions as the 194 socket. The resistor was mounted in the center as seen in Fig 1.1. The actual light assembly in Fig 1.1 is mounted on a plastic socket, but the LED part is similar.
    - All 6 light bulbs in the instrument cluster (6 x 9 LED) exactly as shown in Fig. 1.1. The design with LED spaced 120 degree between is made to provide an equal luminosity in all directions. I am really happy with the background light in the instrument cluster can say the same about the needles (I should be using 4 narrow angle strategically aimed red LEDs – nah …maybe in some shiny day) – Fig 1.1 & Fig 3. (Fig. 4 shows the old look).
    - The 2 194 light bulb from the rear license plate assembly. Same idea as the ceiling – Fig 8.
    - Even the light on the CD changer (2 LEDs) I removed the mini light bulb from the faceplate and inserted one resistor. Due to the space constrains (the sliding CD changer door) I had to cut a slot in the PCB to feat the resistor in the slot (flush with the PCB). – Fig 9.

    Future development:
    - The 2 small light bulbs on the steering wheel controls (2 LEDs) same light assembly as the INFO Module, Head light Switch and door panels.
    - The rear passages A/C module background lights.
    - The Glove Box light
    - Visor lights
    - Trunk and Engine compartment lights.

    I am also working in replacing the fog light bulbs with LEDs (is a challenge but I will feat 100 3 mm white LEDs on the light bulb socket keeping the same dimensions) – Fig 10. I am playing with the idea of replacing the front park light/turn signal with a 10mm LED array.

    All LED used are white, 4.8 mm, 16K mCd, 120-degree light pattern bought from http://cgi.ebay.com/50p-4-8mm-SUPER-...742.m153.l1262

    The resistors used (based on the circuit) have values between 100 ohm and 1.5 K and ¼ W to 2W.

    Usually one LED is 3.5 times more efficient than a light bulb thus I eased the load on battery with something in the vicinity of 1A on full blast.


    Fig1.JPG
    Fig. 1 LED Light assembly (resistor pale yellow)

    Fig2.jpg
    Fig. 2 Central console (INFO module, HU, Climate Control, PRN321 console lights)

    Fig3.jpg
    Fig. 3 LED lights on instrument cluster

    Fig4.jpg
    Fig. 4 Old instrument cluster look

    Fig5.jpg
    Fig. 5 Over window switches lights

    Fig6.jpg
    Fig. 6 Under dash light (high intensity)

    Fig7.jpg
    Fig. 7 Headlight switch module

    Fig8.jpg
    Fig. 8 License plate light

    Fig9.jpg
    Fig. 9 CD changer

    Fig10.JPG
    Fig. 10 Fog light project

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  3. #2
    CadillacSTS42005's Avatar
    CadillacSTS42005 is offline Banned
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    Re: Complete LED interior with pictures

    very VERY hot

  4. #3
    thu's Avatar
    thu
    thu is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Complete LED interior with pictures

    N*Caddy, this looks like it was a LOT of work. Good Job.

  5. #4
    eyekandyboats.inc's Avatar
    eyekandyboats.inc is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Complete LED interior with pictures

    that looks cool.
    how are you going to regulate the voltage to be a const. when you dim your dash board.
    it will cause premature failure of the LEDs

  6. #5
    neverstuck's Avatar
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    Re: Complete LED interior with pictures

    looks great,and looks like it was alot of work

  7. #6
    N*Caddy's Avatar
    N*Caddy is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: Complete LED interior with pictures

    Oh yeah…a looooooot of work.
    The current to the LED does not have to be constant as long as is below I max for the LED you are OK. Actually LEDs are well known for handling on/off cycles well better than light bulbs. A light bulb filament expands and contracts when cycled on/off and this leads to metal fatigue. An LED does not work at the kind of temperatures a filament does thus no material failure do to temperature variations (as long as it operates in the safety current band). In fact you don’t really trust the manufacturer values; they tend to be slightly optimistic. So I use the formula Imax = 80% * manufacturer I max because the specified values are lab conditions (20 degree C) and the LED is extremely sensitive with temperature variation (the lower the temperature the higher the current). The dimmer is a variable resistor, at maximum luminosity the resistance is almost 0, so you calculate your resistors in this conditions (remember every single LED in that dashboard is protected by a resistor as seen in Fig 1). The PN junction is unable to limit the current (it will limit but to a value beyond thermal destruction). This is why a resistor has to be added in serial connection with the LED to limit the current to a safe value. At some point the current will be too small to emit photons (enough to be seen). The typical current in an LED is 20 mA. No LED in my dashboard is injected with a current greater than 16mA worst case scenario (battery voltage 15V and dimmer set to max luminosity). Also all resistors are dimensioned to 1.5 of the max power they actually dissipate. Of course the amount of emitted photons is proportional with the current so they do dim once I move the dimmer knob to less luminosity (same as with light bulbs).

  8. #7
    neverstuck's Avatar
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    Re: Complete LED interior with pictures

    if replacing just the 194 bulbs in the dash , and the instument panel would resistors be needed if they are 194 replacements? I just wanted to replace the 194s in dash and interior with direct replacement bulbs ..Just wondering...Btw it looks awesome

  9. #8
    N*Caddy's Avatar
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    Re: Complete LED interior with pictures

    Unlike the Sylvania web site statements, there’s really no 194 light bulb in the dashboard. The Instrument panel is illuminated by 6 plastic socket mounted light bulbs (about the size of a 194-slightly longer) but completely different socket (same idea as the two PRND321 light bulbs just 3 times larger).
    All the other lights in the dashboard are minute light bulbs either mounted on a small plastic socket (the buttons above the radio, headlamp switch, steering wheel controls* –even smaller than the PRND321) or directly soldered on PCB (radio/climate control).
    Probably for the instrument panel along you can buy some LED 194 light bulb direct replacement and remove the LEDs from the 194 socket and mount them on the OEM sockets (replacing the light bulbs). But keep in mind the direct replacement 194 LED assembly still come with a resistor (inside the plastic socket). Also is essential for the light to be evenly distributed in all directions (no front aiming LEDs) other wise the light in the instrument cluster will have 6 peaks and a lot of shadows.
    I really don’t see out there any commercial LED product direct bot on. You need to fabricate a lot to have the job done. See the posted link to have an idea what you need (over 200 LEDs for a complete job).

    *96 steering wheel buttons have a PCB mounted (non serviceable) light bulbs, 97 and up have the standard plastic socket mounted mini light bulbs.
    The heated seats buttons are illuminated by slightly smaller light bulbs than the mini plastic socket mounted ones minus the socket (they are PCB mounted with long leads).

    After 7 years of university I found that no matter what I calculate on paper the best method to size a resistor is using a 12 V DC power supply, one 5K potentiometer and the Ammeter. The max current for one LED is 20 mA, your aim is 8-10 mA.

  10. #9
    neverstuck's Avatar
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    Re: Complete LED interior with pictures

    thank you .That has cleared that issue for me ..I was going by the Sylvania sight ,glad I had asked first.

  11. #10
    N*Caddy's Avatar
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    Re: Complete LED interior with pictures

    Is a nice endeavor if you are into the electronic stuff (soldering station/meters and so on).

  12. #11
    Guerilla is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Complete LED interior with pictures

    wow this is what i wanna do... kinda... i want to do the lights by the floor mats and the ones on top of the doors... how did you get to the lights on top of the doors?

  13. #12
    97EldoCoupe's Avatar
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    Re: Complete LED interior with pictures

    That is SWEET! That is some awesome work N*Caddy! I've got to see that one of these days....


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  14. #13
    N*Caddy's Avatar
    N*Caddy is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: Complete LED interior with pictures

    Don’t worry you’ll see-it. Actually let me finish the BOSE conversion first and if Jason can find me a working NAV unit then you might see a ‘97 with NAV (hope he is checking his e-mail eventually). If not at least you will see a ’97 with in dash OEM CD player.
    I still haven’t replaced yet the lights on the CD unit hoping I skip this intermediary step and get the NAV directly (witch already has LEDs). But all depends on how fast is Jason.
    Here is my steering wheel (kind of old news by now).

    Even so, that stock HU in the picture is no ordinary HU, it has hard wired AUX input.
    Don’t forget about the front BOSE speakers I asked you (somebody got to find me a pair eventually).
    Little by little this STS is morphing into a late year Eldorado (interior/gadgets wise).

  15. #14
    N*Caddy's Avatar
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    Re: Complete LED interior with pictures

    UPDATE:

    For all you BOSE equipped cars owners out there, I just spent some (lots of) days fiddling with the BOSE HU converting from standard light bulbs to white LED. Following are picture of the unit that will go into my car (at least for now until I figure out how to retrofit the Denso NAV unit – if ever) better seen 2 pictures above.
    This time I was a little more meticulous so I documented the whole project very well.
    First of all the main board is a triple layers design PCB unlike the base systems where is just dual layer. This complicates a lot the work to figure out which circuit goes where. But after all armed with my trusty ohmmeter I figure out the circuit (thank Good the front fascia PCB is just dual layer) although there 3 more control circuits for the lights comparing with the base HU (4 vs. 1). The biggest challenge was to find the polarity (as you probably know the LEDs are polarity sensitive).
    So here it is, in the medallion in the middle is the actual diagram while all around is the approximate location of the components on the board (as seen from inside the HU – kind-of like living inside the HU looking out towards the interior of the car – sort of saying).


    The red sections of the circuits are the circuits located on the other side (outer) of the plate while the black ones are the circuits located on the inner side of the plate. With yellow I marked the resistors I had to insert in order to limit the current to the LEDs. Looking to the circuit you can see 8 branches of 3 or 2 LEDs in serial connection. On the ribbon cable seen in the next picture the first wire is (+ dim controlled from the dashboard knob) the second is (-) while 3, 4, 5 and 6 are (-) directly controlled by 4 outputs of the main controller chip (the one with the firmware). 3 is controlling the lights surrounding the tape slot, 4 is controlling the lights surrounding the CD slot, 5 is controlling the second function button lights (the amber lights: RDS, MSG, PTY) while 6 is controlling the main function (1 – 6).


    As you can see in the above picture I had to insert the resistors (seen yellow in the medallion – first picture) by interrupting the circuits on the PCB in certain strategic points (considering among the others the contact points of the rubber mat covering the plate). The only resistor I could insert replacing an existing one is the one on the PWR and VOL lights (the ones illuminating also the border around the Volume knob). From factory a 13 ohms resistor is inserted to emulate the 3-rd light bulb on that circuit, I replace-it with a 1Kohms resistor. All resistors are calculated to provide a 5 mA current to any LED (regardless if is on a 3 or 2 LED circuit) @ 10V balancing the light intensity (you don’t want to have some buttons brighter and some dimmer). The only ones slightly brighter are the ones illuminating the PWR/VOL (notice the resistor is 1K as opposed to 1.015K on the others 2 LED branches). I was trying to compensate a factory design error (the lights were placed little to far to illuminate properly the border around the Volume Knob).
    And here is the result!


    If you look very carefully to the image you will notice that is only the front fascia of the HU in it, and all the lights are on (orange included), well that’s just because I bypassed the light controls for test purposed (I was emulating the outputs of the HU controller) so I have a good idea of the light intensity.
    Here are two pictures of the assembled HU, first one in daylight and the second one in no light. Unfortunately since this is a bench test I can not turn on the amber lights (I need to have the unit on – thus connected to the car data buss plus the THEFTLOCK needs to be addressed).





    Although the lights seem brighter in the last picture (and little yellowish), is just the phone camera. In reality the lights are a crisp white (something like a brand new neon light).
    Now a small secret about the amber lights, the amber lights, initially I tried to have them done with well…amber color LEDs. So I order these 50 LEDs from e-bay waited one and a half weeks to be delivered and … disappointment. The amber LEDs are only 2/3 the luminosity at the same current and the viewing angle (although labeled 120 degrees) in reality is much narrower. And because the light under the button activating the second function is in the same branch with the RDM/EDJ and TONE lights, balancing the current to have same luminosity on the white buttons as all the others will result in a much dimmer amber button. The other 3 amber lights were no problem since they are all on the same branch (I can adjust the current as much as I like). Then having the issue with the narrower viewing angle I decided to go with white LEDs every where. Actually I discovered mostly by accident that white LED behind amber button will give amber light (duh!). Looks like the material used to filter the light on the amber buttons is pretty good in … well filtering. So the result is a bright crisp amber light (exactly what I was going for). Due to this amber light issue my BOSE project was delayed about a week (this weekend should have been the one, but now is up to next one).

  16. #15
    93eldodave's Avatar
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    Re: Complete LED interior with pictures

    As a truck driver by trade now i have 130 LED's on truck and trailer and 25 or so inside (looks like a rolling airport runway) so im going to give you a +10 on this job ,

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