Newbie with issues

BIGHOMIE · #1 (**permalink**) 05-07-08, 04:30 PM

I have a 99 SLS that i just purchased from a friend of mine. It has 99k Pearl White with STS exterior package. I have a few issues that needs to be addressed and i hope yall can assist me with the right parts to purchase.

The driver door will not open from the inside. I pull the handle but it wont open regardless if i pull up the lock but it will open from the outside. I was told it might be a module that it is located inside the door panel. Is this a remove and replace part?

Also, the fuel door pop open by itself when the car is parked - ighnition off. I hear a short circuit pop when i open it with the remote. Is the fuel door solenoid fried?

One last thing that really annoys me is the startup. It really take 2 /3 time to crank in to finally fire up. I read in couple of post that it may be the FPR or dirty IAC or T/B. Is there any other place to look after i check these items out?

Thanks for your input and i hope i will be a devoted Caddi enthusiast

**Ranger** · #2 (**permalink**) 05-07-08, 09:27 PM

Remove the door panel and have a look. Probably a broken or disconnected linkage rod to the door handle.

Starting problem could be a leaky FPR. Start there.

Not sure about the fuel door. Maybe a sticky relay?

CadillacSTS2003 · #3 (**permalink**) 05-07-08, 10:05 PM

for the fuel door
check your release cable and button to make sure they are not stuck open

BIGHOMIE · #4 (**permalink**) 05-10-08, 02:02 PM

CadillacSTS2003 & Ranger: Thanks for your advice and help.

I went to a local Parts/Pull and i they had a 03 STS that i was able to get the door actuator/module and fuel door solenoid - cant wait to install them and hopefully cure these minor issues.

I also bought a new FPR from Napa Auto and i should be installing it today. It has been gradually getting worse as far as the start-up. I have to pump the gas pedal several time while the ignition is on until the fuel passes over. My friend had to intall a new fuel pump a month before i bought it but they did not replace the FPR at the time.

One question, while driving for several miles and my temp is a TDC - it will lean to 235 temp for several minutes but then goes back to TDC after the fan kicks in. Should a replace the thermostat and radiator cap? These HG'S HORROR STORIES SCARES THE HELL OUT OF ME

CadillacSTS2003 · #5 (**permalink**) 05-10-08, 02:31 PM

woah
you have a parts pull with an 03 STS?
i may hit you up for some parts if you dont mind

**Ranger** · #6 (**permalink**) 05-10-08, 09:13 PM

Pumping the gas does absolutely nothing. That's an old carburetor trick.

Check the purge line.

BIGHOMIE · #7 (**permalink**) 05-12-08, 01:05 PM

Great!!!

My car was dead this morning. I mean DEAD! no lights no gauges on - nothing. I called my friend and asked him when was the last time the battery was changed and he said he got a new one when the fuel pump was replaced (one month ago). He said he did not got a original (AC Delco) but a smaller brand one since they did not had one in stock. I have a feeling there is a short circuit somewhere, but i dont know - going to see if the battery was bad/faulty.

I am not giving up on her

eventhough it has been a one week ownership troublefree before all these issues showing up.

CadillacSTS2003 · #8 (**permalink**) 05-12-08, 01:19 PM

hey
do you mind grabbing me a few parts off that STS?

BIGHOMIE · #9 (**permalink**) 05-12-08, 02:16 PM

CADILLACSTS2003 - i can get you some parts, but let me tell you- its all skin and bones

No exterior panels, no interior panels - litterally a bare shell with few things within reach and pull as far as nic nacs. I have your email addy and i will send you phone camera pic.

There is another junk yard that has a 02 STS will 65% percent of interior and exterior that i can get some good parts off of.

CadillacSTS2003 · #10 (**permalink**) 05-12-08, 02:33 PM

i just need the tail lamp light panel
not the 3rd brake light but the lower lamp assembly
mine takes on water and looks like shyt
most pick a parts charge a standard 35 bucks for a light no matter what it is

BIGHOMIE · #11 (**permalink**) 05-13-08, 04:15 PM

Cadillac2003STS - the STS at the Pick/Pull had no exterior lighting/bodypanel, i mean nothing (no right quarter panel either). The STS at the junk yard has it but it might be pricy since i ask for the 3rd brake light and they quoted 250 - I walked away.

BTW, my battery was drained and it is being recharged. They advised the alternator may be the culprit but i will pull the codes to see if it may be a fuse (searched throught the posts). If it is the alternator, iam getting a bit frustrated.

CadillacSTS2003 · #12 (**permalink**) 05-13-08, 09:44 PM

damn
oh well thanks alot anyways

as for the alt its NOT fun nor cheap on that car
for 98-99 GM had the bright idea to make coolant cooled alternators for the Seville N*
of course they also leak and then short very easy as well

BIGHOMIE · #13 (**permalink**) 05-14-08, 11:28 AM

I had the battery replaced with a new one and will be putting it in today. I hope it can get me to a auto store so they can check if the alternator is the drainage culprit - i hope not. If it rules outs, i am looking at the ignition switch or a fuse in the relay box that may be causing it to drain

My friend had an audio system that was poorly installed as far as wiring, it was taken off when i bought it. I want to do the amp volt/fuse check to see if anything is constantly draining the battery when the car is off (read through a post)

submariner409 · #14 (**permalink**) 05-14-08, 12:10 PM

BIGHOMIE....You would not be the first to discover that a body control module has been bypassed or that the RAP (Retained Accessory Power) module is not dropping out after 10 minutes, key off.

Your comment about the poor audio install is telling: Go down to technical and read through some Audio/Alarm......threads.

hyperboimmv · #15 (**permalink**) 05-14-08, 01:27 PM

Out of curiosity, submariner409, how did the people that posted about RAP not kicking out like it was supposed to solve their problem? Would the accessory fuse put in the 'constant on' mode cause this? I was fiddling around with stuff one day and found that you could have the front accessory jack turn off and have the back one stay on... I thought that was kinda cool, but I could see where it could throw some people through a loop. Also, something else that I learned (the hard way) is that cars with out the ash trays have another 12v socket wire harness in the center by the gear selector that could easily be pinched up against something.. Not that I am trying to say that either of these are the problem, but who knows, maybe I can spark some ideas...