Front suspension rattles?

[greg-sls]

I had a situation like you describe and it turned out to be a sway end link. It was only on the drivers' side. If I drove over a speed bump on an angle in a parking lot, I could hear it clunk on just the one side.

[cl1986]

So just for a recap.

First, CV joints dont rattle, they click when they are bad.

The rattle is usally sway bar related. The sway bar bushings and links kinda make a "boing" ratlle, if that makes sense.

First is to put both new swap bar bushings in.

Second take off both sway bar links. Check them, replace if necessary.

Then, strut mounts dont rattle either, they make a binding noise when turning the wheel, i need to fix one of mine yet.

Struts wont rattle either, unlesss you have loose bolts, or maybe physical damage but that would be obvious.

Unit bearings can cause a vibration or somewhat of a rattle but thats also easily checked, jack up wheels push on top and bottom of tire with alot of force. Ive replaced both of mine 2 years ago, they both went bad at the same time.

Lastly it may be your tie rods, but that would also be a vibration, not a rattle. Shaking the steering wheel thing.

Again, im stressing to not just look at the sway bar links or bushings, replace the bushings ($10) and take off the links and check them and replace only if necessary ($50 or more each link)

[egheorghe]

Mine does it all the time over small bumps like cracks in the pavement, not necessarily on angle.

[greg-sls]

I was checking Rockauto for the parts and apparently you "rebuild" the sway bar bushings with a kit. I was also looking for the sway end links and was uncertain about them. The pictures shown don't look like mine. Someone here (sorry, I can't find the thread) replaced his end links and said it wasn't too bad of a job.

[finerwoodworking]

Originally Posted by egheorghe

I'll go for tie rod next. I hope it wont be that bad to replace it. It doesn't look too difficult, is it? I'll inspect it closely first.

It’s a piece of cake. Just count the number or revolutions that you turn it to take it off. Then put it back on with the same number or revelations. Get the lifetime with the grease fitting, not sure why they would ever put them on with out the grease fitting???? The rattle in my front end got quieter after I did the outer tie rod, but not all of it. Mine is still the strut or the strut bearing?
I had no noise, side to side, when I did my wheel bearings, but they made a groaning noise when I drove the car. For lack of a better word it kind of sounded like a knobby tire on pavement. Or a baseball card in your bike spokes when you were a kid trying to make it sound like a motorcycle. Once I replace the bearing it got all quite again.

[cl1986]

Originally Posted by egheorghe

Mine does it all the time over small bumps like cracks in the pavement, not necessarily on angle.

Thats what mine was doing, bushings and sway link solved the problem.

Im not real sure i agree with the "get the links with grease zerks" statement. Thats almost like saying dont buy a unit bearing unless it has a grease zerk. They are sealed for a reason.

[finerwoodworking]

Originally Posted by cl1986

Thats what mine was doing, bushings and sway link solved the problem.

Im not real sure i agree with the "get the links with grease zerks" statement. Thats almost like saying dont buy a unit bearing unless it has a grease zerk. They are sealed for a reason.

We were talking about the outer tie rod ends.

[N*Caddy]

Back on post #22 I mentioned about changing (among the others) the rack and pinion. That was little over one year ago, since then twice I lost the steering assist (turning on slow speeds), first occurrence was few days after, and the second was 2-3 months later. Any way ever since I told my mechanic that steering rack and pinion is not right. He sent me to the dealer to have the system flushed (like that would make any difference). Any way starting this summer I noticed the steering wheel started to deviate slightly (5 degrees or so) to the left (i.e. the car was pulling right). Then I noticed the left side tire beginning to wear unevenly (on the outside). Then it was the issue with the once in a while noise (like a knock) wen turning the steering wheel on slow speeds (especially to the left passing over the center point). Then the noise occurred more often and louder until I can hear it every time I am turning the steering wheel (in the last months) and you can feel the car shaking (like you will heat o rock or something under the car).
Well today I was preparing my wallet for another rack and pinion (over $1000 after labor and taxes). I ended up with just a $90 bill. Guess what the problem was? The entire rack and pinion was loose, basically that was causing the noise and the shake and the steering wheel deviation. Now being so surprise with such a low bill (comparing with what I was expecting) I did not even pointed the same shop mounted rack and pinion little over a year ago.
Now I do have sometimes a noise issue (like old hinges turning –right side mostly). The mechanic said is not the upper strut mount (witch by the way are just over one year new), he turned the wheel with the outer rods disconnected and there is no resistance, he noticed is the spring causing the noise (and is nothing that can be done about it). Does this makes sense (shouldn’t the spring be stationary when it comes to turning the wheel)?
Everything but the springs is new (~1 year or so) in the front suspension (OEM AC Delco). I must say I had that once in a while noise when turning the wheels since I can remember (even before changing the upper strut mounts, struts and so on).

[iametarq]

N* can you describe your steering deviation?

[N*Caddy]

This morning going to work I had the chance to appreciate the yesterday fix, uaw is like floating on a cloud again, not one single knock is so smooth so precise, that’s exactly why I love Cadillac so much.

As for steering wheel deviation…I noticed having constantly a 5 degrees or so to the right (sorry I just remembered so the car was pulling left). Is just like when you drive on a inclined line and you have to compensate slightly, just that this was on the middle line, on the far left line was almost 10 degrees and on the far right line it was almost straight but still kind of to the right.


This is the normal deviation of the steering wheel, when driving on the middle line the steering wheel is straight, when driving on the left line the steering wheel is slightly right to compensate the inclination and the other way around on the right line.

This is what I was experiencing:

It was straight on the right line because the line inclination was compensating for the tendency of the car to pull left, the middle line was 5 degrees deviated right to compensate the car tendency to pull left and on the far left line the steering wheel was deviated 10 degrees to compensate both the tendency of the car to pull left and the line inclination.
As a result my front left tire got worn really bad on the outside (because of that and the slight positive caster since the last alignment – struts replacement).
This deviation was almost constant during the fall, then as the knocking sound was louder and more often the steering wheel was either straight or deviated one way or the other (but mostly to the right). At some point (for like 2 days) the steering wheel was massively (like 20 degrees plus) on the left, then maneuvering the car in the parking lot (slow speed ample turns) after a big knock (turning left) the steering wheel returned to center. I was actually pulling away on my way to the mechanic to show how much deviation I had (you know the doctor effect – so obviously the $20 shop verdict was “there is nothing wrong with the steering”).

Above is a month and a half-old picture of the front left tire (the outer threads were almost gone) now they are completely gone, but I am changing the tires in the following week (Goodyear Eagle GT).

[egheorghe]

The rattle is usally sway bar related. The sway bar bushings and links kinda make a "boing" ratlle, if that makes sense.

First is to put both new swap bar bushings in.

I didn't get the chance to replace those. I couldn't find them on rockauto and i haven't searched how to change them. it doesn't look too difficult, but after what i went through today changing the outer tie rod and sway bar link ..... i'm convinced nothing is easy. The tie rod actually was very easy to replace, but the sway bar link...OMG i spent 2 hours to take the lower part out. i had to put a hammer between the tip of the link and the frame to avoid the sway bar from vibrating and then hit the sway bar really hard with another hammer.
Anyhow, after replacing those two parts, sway bar link and tie rod end, the noise is still there. The only think i can think of is those bushings, but i don't know if i should just take it to the mechanic .. cuz i don't wanna go through another HELL.
Please advise if it's a DIY no headaches type of job.
Aren't these the ones?
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductD...egoryCode=4073
Thank you

[iametarq]

hmm, from your post N* maybe I need to get mine looked at. I constantly have to move my steering wheel to stay in a straight line driving down the freeway.

[N*Caddy]

Does it make a big noise underneath (like hitting a rock underneath the car) and can you feel the knock on the floor? If not then chances are the rack is tight. What might happen, your knuckle bushings in the rear might be gone and you kind of steering with your rear wheels (although mostly the rear wheels caster is affected).
You can easily check by lifting the rear wheels and try to move the wheels (grab from 6 o’clock) up-down and left-right (9:15). No movement is permitted else the knuckles are bad.

[egheorghe]

To replace the sway bar bushings, do i have to remove the sway bar or just disconnect the outer tie rod end, lower sway bar link, remove the bushing brackets from the frame and the bushing would just slide right out? Would the new bushings slide in easily?

[egheorghe]

Today i received the sway bar bushings and they look kind of small to me. Do you guys know what size it's supposed to be? The ones i got are 13 mm...