Suspension "Upgrade" - Need Opinions

[lbwd]

As some know, my suspension (front) is shot.

If your suspension was shot, would you buy OEM struts and such or go to a
company (like Arnott) and buy passive struts? Anyone have passive? How's the ride?

Here's what I'm thinking: if I have to blow money on my suspension, I may as well have the whole thing done (all four corners) and I don't want to throw thousands into it. I may as well lower it a tad, you think? I may end up with 18" rims sometime but I'm not real sure yet.

Arnott Passive Struts :: $600-ish
Eibach Lowering Springs :: $250-ish
Front Strut Mounts :: $100 each
Front Sway Bar End Links and Sway Bar Bushings :: $100

Is that everything?

[lbwd]

... one other thing: where can I get good sway bar end links, bushings, strut mounts, etc.?

[nigelb]

oem electronic struts are expensive, i'd buy monroe items, they do electric replacements and are cheaper.
some people would say only buy oem but as the cars are getting older the cost involved becomes an issue.
i would really like some heavy duty springs that leave the ride height stock but i've not found any.
lowering may require you to have the automatic levelling reprogramed or disabled?
i kinda remember a thread a short while back that said that changing the front cradle bushes can really help to tighten the front end.
just lately i've been very lazy with my STS, its been standing in my yard untouched for 4 months with the list of r&r's getting longer.
i know i really need front struts but until i can find springs i dont want to take it apart.
i just had to change the IAC and it cost $325 shipped to the UK, ouch

[greg-sls]

Ibwd, I've seen pics of you STS, and if that's the way it currently looks, you've kept it in great shape...kudos to you for that. 2 years ago, before I knew about this forum and all the suspension options, I had a brake shop change the front struts to OEM for 2 grand. I know it would even be more at a dealer. If I had this issue today, I would definitely go the passive route on all 4. My biggest concern would be fooling the BCM so the "service cc ride" message never shows up. Apparently Arnott struts have that bypass built in, but with others you may have to fool the computer manually with a resistor kit - tricky business (at least that's what I'm reading here). If you replace the sway links and bar, you definitely need a complete alignment afterwards. I had to have one replaced under warranty and the car immediately pulled to the right. The darn dealer denied the change had anything to do with it. At any rate, let us know how it goes if you go the Arnott route and give us a write-up on your experience with the process.
Personally, I would not lower anything - keep that "grand old lady" the same as she is...someday she could be a classic.

[EcSTSatic]

Originally Posted by lbwd

As some know, my suspension (front) is shot.


Is that everything?

I'm not familiar with your problem. Are you sure it's the struts and not bad bushings or joints somewhere? Just hate to see you spend money in the wrong place.
Whichever way you choose on the struts, inspect the front end carefully. I don't know how many miles you have but you could have some play up front somewhere. good luck!

[lbwd]

Originally Posted by greg-sls

At any rate, let us know how it goes if you go the Arnott route and give us a write-up on your experience with the process.

No problem. I'd be happy to do so if I end up doing this.

Originally Posted by EcSTSatic

I'm not familiar with your problem. Are you sure it's the struts and not bad bushings or joints somewhere? Just hate to see you spend money in the wrong place.

I'll have the dealer look at it too just to ensure that's the problem. I did the push test on both ends and the result wasn't good. That indicates that the struts are bad. I also had my mechanic look at it and he said the front struts are bad, especially on the right side...?

I have 165K on the clock.

[Cadillacboy]

I'd go for OEM unless you feel a difference in handling,steering,comfort level etc

[lbwd]

Passive won't sense the road conditions and is much more affodable, whereas OEM will sense the road and use RSS. Now I'm thinking hard about lowering it an inch with this suspension change. Make it sportier and maybe even look a tad nicer (fill in the gap).