Glove Box Noise/97 Seville sls

[glyanez]

when i turn on the car, there is a tiny ginding noise, ( sounds like,..bee,bee,bee,bee,...) in the glove box. Sometimes it stops, other times i doesnt?

Any ideas what this is?

tia,


g

[Ranger]

The air mix doors and actuators are back there. Probably a sticking door or failing actuator.

[greg-sls]

How weird! I have the same problem with my 97 SLS! But my noise sounds like creaking - just a bit. I've noticed in heat mode, I don't hear it as much. I've been watching another thread where this problem was discussed, and the first step is to remove the glove box. I'm not sure if the actuator/mix door can be repaired or re-lubricated - I'm going to give it a shot over replacing it. I think Ranger says there are 2 actuators behind the box, one for the pass side and another for the driver side. Please correct me if I am mistaken. If I get time, I'm going to have a look at it this weekend.

[Ranger]

Correct, there are 2. I think the upper one is passenger and the lower is driver. I don't think they are serviceable. That said, I have repaired things before that were "not serviceable".

[greg-sls]

I finally got around to removing my glove box for that same bee bee bee noise complaint that glyanez had. First of all, there's a small pry-open door in the back of the box that warns to remove the 2 wire harnesses for the SIR system (behind this little door). OK, I pried it open and no harnesses! At least not at the door as would have suspected. I went ahead and removed the glove compartment - fairly easy and found what was making the noise. At least on the 97, there's an actuator that a has a rotating plastic arm that connects to a rod that in turn connects to a radial arm on the air mix damper. There has been talk that there could be 2 back there, but on mine, it's just the mix chamber that either gives you heat (lower vents or A/C). I proved it by changing the CCC from 90 to 60 and I observed it moving AND MAKING THE NOISE! I put some white grease on the plastic parts that rotated and the shot some silicon spray to the furthest one back - problem solved! You gotta know a dealer would rip you off and claim all sorts of parts replaced. I will keep my glove box out for a few days to be sure all is quiet before reassembling.

[Ranger]

Greg, there is another one down below that. It is for the passenger temp control. It is accessed from the bottom.

[greg-sls]

Ranger – thanks for your tip…as it turns out, to access the second servo, the glove box doesn’t need to come out. Just by removing the upper kick panel in the passenger foot well, you can see the device and gain access to it. For glyanez’s benefit, both servos work in unison if the passenger temp control is “off”. I was able to observe this by turning the fan on low and then dialing up and down the main temp control. Depending on the cabin temp and your demand (i.e. A/C or heat) the servos will do a “hard over” to one side or other and the creaking noise was near the end of the detent for the lower servo going to the right (full heat on). That’s not to say the whole system couldn’t use a good lubrication because after 11 years of service, it was dried out. Also, the inner axis points of the dampers are exposed to high airflow and therefore plenty of dust. What I noticed was that the lower servo will move differently when the pass temp control is engaged. As the demand temperature is reached in the cabin, both servos start to do micro-movements to constantly adjust the air mix as set on the CCC. That’s when an older system makes the “bee bee bee” or creaking sounds.
By the way, I finally invested in an auto stethoscope – very handy and can nail down problems much better than my homemade device. For $11, it was well worth it and I suggest to all here who diagnose there own engine problems to get one for their toolkit.
To all here: just buy one and then CAREFULLY touch the probe to each and every device on the drive belts so you know what a “normal” sound is like. That way, if you get a “mystery noise” it will be easy for you to nail down. It’s also handy for diagnosing errant fuel injectors as you can hear normal “ticking” vs. erratic ticking.