Cooling Overhaul (few questions)

[Shawn4.0]

Well my reservoir tank has a crack on the bottom, so I guess it's time to retool the cooling system. Haven't messed with it since I got the car in May. Couple of questions though;

1.) Would something like Prestone's heavy duty cooling system flush be too much for the car? Won't hurt the headgasket or anything?

2.) I'm planning on using the compatible-with-all-type blend. Would this be okay for a complete fill? And would I have to keep the 50/50 blend? Being in Florida I'm likely to never see anywhere near freezing. Or is it more for like anti-corrosion prevention?

3.) I know on Aurora's you had to use pellets (crushed walnut shell I believe) that you added to the cooling system. Are they still recommending them to use on the caddies? If so, what would be the part# and where would I put them?

As far as procedures, I was planning to drain and refill twice with straight hose water to get the coolant out, add the flush stuff and drive the heck out of it for a bit. Flush with straight water, drain and then add the fresh coolant. I realize you can only get about 4qt out at a time, hence the multiple refills. Sound good?

[greg-sls]

I copied some notes on this procedure some weeks ago...rather than re-display them here, I can clip them into a private message, if you want. There are some cautions on flushing with a garden hose and you can do a better job if you have a wet/dry shop vac.

[JimD]

Originally Posted by Shawn4.0

[color=black]....1.) Would something like Prestone's heavy duty cooling system flush be too much for the car? Won't hurt the headgasket or anything?

Personal opinion here, but I would not flush. Period. Not only are you introducing unknown chemistry into the system, but you will lose control of the desired 50/50 mix.

2.) I'm planning on using the compatible-with-all-type blend. Would this be okay for a complete fill? And would I have to keep the 50/50 blend? Being in Florida I'm likely to never see anywhere near freezing. Or is it more for like anti-corrosion prevention?

Stick with the Havoline Dex-Cool; the Havoline brand contains the proper anti-corrosion package. And yes, stick with the 50/50 ratio using distilled water if possible or potable water if that's all you have. The 50/50 ratio is not only for freeze protection; it also contributes a little bit to elevating the boiling temperature.

3.) I know on Aurora's you had to use pellets (crushed walnut shell I believe) that you added to the cooling system. Are they still recommending them to use on the caddies? If so, what would be the part# and where would I put them?

The pellets are available at GM parts counters (they call them cooling system supplements) or you can get the same material packaged from Bar's Leaks in either a pellet or a powder. Remove one of the radiator hoses and put the product in the hose before you fill with fresh coolant.

Havoline Dex-Cool and Bar's Leaks products are available at Wal Mart.

[Ranger]

1. I wouldn't flush it unless there is some real need. You'll play hell getting all that crap out. Use a shop vac with the hose on exhaust as Greg eluded to and stick the nozzle in the surge tank. Seal it with your hand or a rag to blow out some of the residual coolant that does not drain.

2. I'd stick with Dex, but whatever you use, be sure it is 50/50. Never use it straight unless it is premixed 50/50. Coolant is both anti-freeze AND anti-corrosion.

3. The General quit using the sealant tabs (Ginger root). If you want to use them, get them from a dealer or get Barsleaks tabs from Walmart (same thing). Put them in the radiator hose.


EDIT:
Ah, I see Jim beat me too it.

[Shawn4.0]

Alright, sorta makes sense about not flushing, same thing as not power flushing the transmission. Though I would imagine I would still want to drain and refill as much as I can, the anti-corrosion properties have to get used up over time?

[Zorb750]

Water flush will NOT cause problems. Chemical flushes can, such as decreasing water pump bearing life.

Flushing a transmission is different because it causes fluid to circulate incorrectly during the flush. Power flushes are something totally different and don't apply to a transmission.

[JimD]

Originally Posted by Shawn4.0

.... the anti-corrosion properties have to get used up over time?

Correct.

[jasn69]

Originally Posted by greg-sls

I copied some notes on this procedure some weeks ago...rather than re-display them here, I can clip them into a private message, if you want. There are some cautions on flushing with a garden hose and you can do a better job if you have a wet/dry shop vac.

Can you possibly send those notes to me as well. I am needing to flush my eldorado and have never owned one nor seen such a setup on a car.

[jevanof]

I bought a flush kit and did mine, it was pretty easy, usually you are supposed to hook this attachment to your radiator and run water into the engine with the heat on and all the old stuff comes out the radiator, to do my car, I just unhooked the top hose, waited for the coolant to turn clear, then i attached the top hose, disconnected the bottom house, put about a 1/2 gallon of straight, and the rest mixed, tested and worked fine.

[Necrosan]

There's a prestone "flush-n-fill" kit installed in my car.
Those are safe for just about any cooling system I've ever encountered.
I would never use a chemical flush for the cooling system though, or any other system.

[davz]

You have to make sure all the old coolant is out. It hangs in the cylinder pockets and heater core. I'm with these guys, I would stay away from the chemical flush. Just use hot water, or wait several hours between refills. You don't want to introduce cold water into a hot engine.
I use the Prestone Dexcool, But the Prestone all makes and models is what I use in the rest of my vehicles. It is a very bright flourescent yellowish green. Easier to detect leaks with that stuff.