: Help, Just removed Radiator coolant resovoir 2004 sls



Hollywood
02-25-07, 12:34 PM
I have had a leak in my cooling system and have had to top off daily. It got to point now the vehicle overheats and that's that. I pulled apart what I could and found that the bottom of the resovit tank has what appears like a starburst design crack, I ran water in it and it began to leak. Would this cause extreme coolant loss and overheating? I am looking around but it has been snow and rain here and I do not have a garage to dry it all out. NAPA does not carry the part but said maybe I can repair it. It is on the bottom.

dkozloski
02-25-07, 01:47 PM
I have had a leak in my cooling system and have had to top off daily. It got to point now the vehicle overheats and that's that. I pulled apart what I could and found that the bottom of the resovit tank has what appears like a starburst design crack, I ran water in it and it began to leak. Would this cause extreme coolant loss and overheating? I am looking around but it has been snow and rain here and I do not have a garage to dry it all out. NAPA does not carry the part but said maybe I can repair it. It is on the bottom.
I don't think you're going to find anything that will glue the tank and stay stuck. I'd be looking for somebody that welds plastic storage tanks. Outfits around here that make plastic septic tanks and water storage tanks also provide welding services as their tanks are ungluable also.

Submariner409
02-25-07, 02:19 PM
Coolant actually circulates through the expansion tank in order to allow air/gas bubbles to pass out of the coolant and collect in the tank. Look at the cap, read the system cap pressure, and you'll know why a LOT of coolant can come out of a small hole at 16-18 psi...

Hollywood
02-25-07, 02:49 PM
Being a dealer only part I'm told, I went to NAPA and picked up the repair kit to try a temp fix til I can get the part. Ya clean, sand, prep, then epoxy, then fiberglass belt, then epoxy again, then let harden. If coolant is always circulate in there then thats probably it. It will brely drip when filled but thats with no pressure.


Is it safe to fill with water to test, then drain and fill properly? I haven't looked for the drain plug yet but thought I read pass side bottom.

Ranger
02-25-07, 04:20 PM
Sure it is safe to test it that way, but remember, it will not be under pressure and that can make the difference. What you are using may work. I would think JB Weld may as well. Worked for me on the purge line nipple. If you replace the part, try http://www.gmotors.com

Hollywood
02-25-07, 04:53 PM
New issue. Water pump belt was also broken, the root of the overheat I am sure but not the leak.

Problem: Both pulleys are fried, no one had them, must be a dealer part. The pulley on the tensioner looks like a metric bolt but how to remove the other?

Hollywood
02-25-07, 04:57 PM
I had a coolant leak, found it, then saw water pump belt was broken, both pulleys melted up and appear fried. Can't find 'em but will call dealer tommorow.

Problem: I don't know how to remove the pulleys. The one on the tensioner appears just to be a metric bolt, the one on top of the engine I have no clue. Please advise on that & the easiest way to get the belt on.

99cadillacman
02-25-07, 06:10 PM
hi.... the tensioner pulley is usually serviced only with the whole tensioner assy. Even if you could replace just the pulley i would reccomend replacing the whole tensioner assy if you car has more than 80k miles...Its held on with two 10mm head studhead bolts. The big pulley on top on the end of the camshaft is pressed on. It can be removed and installed with a power steering pulley remover/installer. There are several companies that make a version of the tool. you also may be able to rent one at a local parts store. as far as the belt goes if can be removed installed easily. you have to remove that sheet metal cover by taking two 10mm head nuts off the bottom and removing one 10mm head bolt on top.

If you cant locate the parts let me know. I am in the process of installing a northstar engine right now. I could sell you a used cam pulley and a used tensioner+pulley assy....

also make sure the water pump pulley moves easily... if you cant turn it then it is locked up and must be replaced as well... im sure if you search this site there is probhably info about this all over...
mike

Ranger
02-25-07, 06:36 PM
What other pulley? One is on the tensioner, one is on the pump and the drive pulley is attached to the intake cam.

Hollywood
02-25-07, 06:39 PM
Please email me at hollywood@wideopenwest.com re the used parts. I cannot PM until 50 posts. Thanks

Hollywood
02-25-07, 06:49 PM
the cam pulley and pump pulley. Changing the cam pulley is sounding rough for a broke super part time mech like me. When the belt broke it was stuck and melted the pulleys up. I am very tempted to put the belt on on see if it stays. I can't even see how to loop the belt on.....

Hollywood
02-25-07, 06:54 PM
The belt melted the pulleys but with as difficult as this sounds and the bucks and tempted to see if the belt will hold but I cant tell how to loop it on...help describe please

Ranger
02-25-07, 06:55 PM
You just need a P/S pump puller/installer. I would bet if it was melted, it will through the belt and you can be sure that will happen at the most inopportune time and place.

Moving the tensioner might give you the clearance you need or replace the belt when the tensioner is being replaced.

Ranger
02-25-07, 06:56 PM
I am going to merge these two threads together.

Hollywood
02-25-07, 08:55 PM
What other pulley? One is on the tensioner, one is on the pump and the drive pulley is attached to the intake cam.

Glad you posted that, I haven't looked since it got dark but I only saw 2 pulleys but the 3 makes function sense to me, I didn't see the actual pump pulley, now I wonder if it's there still. I saw on a site that Auto Zone will lend out a pulley puller removal tool with a 100% refundable deposit, ever heard of that?

Ranger
02-25-07, 09:49 PM
Yes I have. Never tried that though. I made my own, and still haven't needed it. http://www.geocities.com/grandolfo

Hollywood
02-25-07, 10:09 PM
So what does the pulley removal tool do exactly. What has to be done to remove the pulley? Is something held from moving, what is loosened,doesi it just pull off? I have no clue and would like a better understanding

Ranger
02-25-07, 10:28 PM
The center of the pulley has a groove that the tool grips on and a bolt in the center of the puller that pushes against the center of the cam and pulls it off the cam, as it is pressed on. Nothing else to remove. DO NOT be tempted to drive it back on with a hammer. Likewise, DO NOT try to remove it with a gear puller. On second thought, it is already destroyed and will not be reused, so I guess you could do that. Most removers are also used as an installer, but all that is needed is a bolt, washer and a nut to reinstall.

Hollywood
02-25-07, 10:54 PM
First of all, I want to thank everyone who has offered information, my 04 has 110k mi on it due to being on the road with my job, which I no longer have (Company went under) so all the help here is appreciated since it has been over 3 weeks since my last pay so to get this done & keep the electric on is tough so thank you...now on w/some more....

I can reasonably envision the removal, but not the install. How do the bolt, washer and nut come in to play? Does it not go back on the same as off? And if so, the tapping on theoretically makes sense,but of course i realize not too many parts are just beat on(when done right) but how is it reinstalled. ? Just trying to really get the step by step down thats all.

And where is the best place to get perhaps the pulleys?NAPA, Auto Zone, Advanced Auto Parts..no luck. I'm just a little worried about the cost from a dealer, any ideas of cost? I think NAPA did have the tensioner assembly,(keyword THINK) I didn't ask too many questions about it ince I thought I saw 60 bucks so we looked for the pulley. I got 55 and need 115 to keep the electric on! OUCH, pawn shop here I come!

Ranger
02-25-07, 11:08 PM
There is a threaded hole in the end of the camshaft. Put the pulley up against the camshaft. Place the bolt with the nut threaded all the way back and a washer between it and the pulley through the pulley center hole. Thread the bolt into the camshaft, then start moving the nut against the pulley using the washer as a thrust bearing. The pulley will be pressed on by turning the nut off of the bolt which is threaded into the end of the camshaft. Hope I explained that so you are able to visualize it.

Get the pulley from http://www.rockauto.com or if a dealer only part http://www.gmotors.com. Prices will be about half of the dealer parts counter.

Hollywood
02-26-07, 02:19 AM
Thanks. Any chance you know the bolt size? That would help me also. Since I won't be re-using the current cam pulley can it be removed any other way without the removal tool? I emailed the 2 sources provided in hopes of an early reply, the one had a catalog but no part the other appeared to be phone # and email. Thanks.



Also, still interested in the used parts offered earlier.Cannot PM not enough posts.


Any and all input or potential low price parts or suppliers appreciated. Thank you all.

Ranger
02-26-07, 05:58 PM
No I don't know the bolt size, sorry. I suspect you can remove the pulley with a gear puller since it is already bad and will not be reused.