: I need a Alternator Bracket



elia
02-17-07, 02:26 AM
I need a Alternator (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/#) and Power Steeering bracket for a 90-92 Cadillac Brougham RWD 5.0 305 engine.

Gwokable
02-18-07, 04:25 AM
Make sure the threads in the oil pan for the powersteering pump didn't decide to disalign from the hole when you do the replacement. I did that on mine and had to use a sheet metal screw as a fix until rebuild time.

What area are you in? I'v got a 307 sitting around I can pull those parts off of and I'm in chicago.

Otherwise, hit a junkyard.

joe_padavano
02-18-07, 11:53 AM
The first question is, what do you have exactly? The 305 Chevy motor was never used in Cadillacs as far as I know. The 1990 and older models used the 307 Oldsmobile motor. The 1991 and newer used the 350 Chevy. The brackets are completely different, depending on which motor you have.

Second, assuming we're talking about the Olds 307, there are no bolts in the oil pan. The power steering bracket attaches to two threaded studs on the front cover and a threaded hole on the driver's side of the block. There are two spacers that go between the bracket and the block. One goes on the lower stud on the front cover. The other goes on the bolt on the side of the block. Failure to get these spacers installed correctly will make it impossible to get the belt aligned properly.

The 307 was used in just about every GM full size station wagon built in the mid to late 1980s. These are very common in wrecking yards around here (mid-atlantic area).

Gwokable
02-18-07, 07:06 PM
305 and 307 were very similar engines last time I checked. Buddy has a 305 and it looks almost exactly like it'd take the alternator bracket from a 307. Mabye I'm off.

Powersteering pump is attached to a bracket which is attached to the engine by 3 bolts. 2 on the front of the engine and one on the bottom, off to the side on the drivers side. When we did the replacement, the threads inside the engine decided to disalign from the hole, so you'd put the screw in and the threads were 3/8ths of an inch off and the bolt wouldn't thread. We tried moving it back into position with a small screwdriver and reinstalling the bolt doublequick, but every time we did it'd just disalign again. So we settled on a self-tapping bolt and made our own threads. Then we had to get the damn thing aligned, which was a bitch and a half.

First you have to pull the fan, fan assembly, and 3 v-belts just to get access to the damned thing, then you've got to route a v-belt around 3 seperate pullies. In addition, you have to pull the sparkplug wires and turn the crank on the engine such that you can get to the adjustment bolt through a hole, and once you've got access to it, then you've got to find a big ass screwdriver that's small enough to fit between the pully and power steering resivour to tension the SOB with. Then you've got to get a 400 pound guy halfway into the engine compartment to use his weight to properly tension that ****er while someone ratchets.

And if you do it wrong, then the belt shreds, giving your engine a nice rubberized coating. And you do it, all, over, again, screaming the entire time.

Thing is tensioned perfect, has about 1/2 inch give in either direction.

Yeah, it's a bitch and a half. My main problem has always been the AC pump tension, but now that I have a breakerbar, that shouldn't be an issue. You can tell when a belts loose when it wobbles, :X.

Need to find myself a nice serpentine belt kit for this engine...

As a small condolence, the engineers at cadillac decided to put a dual-v-belt system on the water pump and an extra-huge radaitor to boot. So you've got 2 belts going around the crank and water pump. If one goes, the other is *supposed* to keep it going. What they don't tell you is that it won't. So if one belt goes, the other will eventually go within about 20 miles. Then your engine begins overheating. Yes, you can drive it until the oil pressure light turns on but at that moment, you turn that SOB off. I'v done it twice. The engine runs great.

joe_padavano
02-19-07, 10:20 AM
305 and 307 were very similar engines last time I checked. Buddy has a 305 and it looks almost exactly like it'd take the alternator bracket from a 307. Mabye I'm off.

You're off. The 305 is a small block Chevy. The 307 is a small block Oldsmobile. They are COMPLETELY different motors. Different castings, different dimensions, different brackets, different motor mounts, different bellhousing bolt pattern. The 305 and 307 even have the A/C compressor on different sides of the motor! Better look again.


Powersteering pump is attached to a bracket which is attached to the engine by 3 bolts. 2 on the front of the engine and one on the bottom, off to the side on the drivers side. When we did the replacement, the threads inside the engine decided to disalign from the hole, so you'd put the screw in and the threads were 3/8ths of an inch off and the bolt wouldn't thread. We tried moving it back into position with a small screwdriver and reinstalling the bolt doublequick, but every time we did it'd just disalign again. So we settled on a self-tapping bolt and made our own threads. Then we had to get the damn thing aligned, which was a bitch and a half.
Sounds like you had the spacers installed incorrectly. See my previous post. In 3 decades of working on Oldsmobile motors, I've never had this problem. By the way, the pump bracket is actually three pieces bolted together. Loosen all the fasteners before you try to put it on the motor.


First you have to pull the fan, ...BLAH, BLAH, BLAH...
Well, again, I had to replace the PS pump on my 307 and while the steps are correct, I sure didn't have anywhere near this much trouble. Also, you need to loosen all three fasteners (two bolts and a nut) that hold the pump to the bracket before you try to tension the belt.


Need to find myself a nice serpentine belt kit for this engine...
Good luck. They don't exist. There was never a reverse rotation water pump made for the Olds V8, so there are no true serpentine belt kits. There are kits that claim to be serpentine, but they are either regular multi-belt kits that use the flat ribbed belts with the normal factory style tension adjustment or they are very expensive kits that use two or three idler pulleys and won't fit the existing accessory configuration on a stock vehicle.

Gwokable
02-19-07, 03:36 PM
Well there's different setups. We're talking about an 88 cadillac fleetwood brougham with a stock 307. I know the 307 I have in my driveway, for a 86 olds cutlass supreme, has a different set of waterpump and crankshaft pulleys. Basically there are 4 belts, and the crankshaft and waterpump each have 3 grooves on them for 3 belts:

Rear grooves: Crank, Waterpump, AC

Rear Grooves: : Crank, Waterpump, Powersteering

Foward Grooves: Crank, Air pump

Foward Grooves: Waterpump, Alternator.

To change out something that's in the rear grooves you have to uninstall, at minimum, 3 v-belts. To change out something with the foward grooves you just pull the thing and put a new one on.

The threads I'm talking about are inside of the engine itself, not on the bracket anywhere. But I do appreciate the idea of loosening the fasteners before tightening up the belt. I'll have to look into that when I eventually do the rebuild (or if it breaks again).

joe_padavano
02-19-07, 06:11 PM
The threads I'm talking about are inside of the engine itself, not on the bracket anywhere. But I do appreciate the idea of loosening the fasteners before tightening up the belt. I'll have to look into that when I eventually do the rebuild (or if it breaks again).

I know. That's what I said in my first post. You called it the threads in the oil pan and I pointed out that it is a tapped boss on the driver's side of the block. There should be a 3/4" thick spacer between the PS pump bracket and the side of the block as well.

boatman
04-11-07, 04:58 PM
ttt for the poster