: 95 FWB 5.7 Belt tension and other checks



Rob Benham
02-12-07, 02:11 AM
Well, I've still got my "temporary" 95 FWB, it was to tide me over ‘till I got another SLS (I wish I hadn't sold that car!!) Now I'm planning a 3,000 mile trip and am having to think of more complex servicing than just oil etc.. It was owned by a retired guy who spent a lot on maintenance, I'm hoping that it will do the trip okay.

Having got fairly nifty at sorting the N* problems, I'm now feel like I'm learning from scratch again.

I have spent some time on search, and find that the noises from the serpentine belt are common. I will check the tensioner and replace if necessary, but could someone tell me how to simply set it? And how long before re-tensioning after putting on a new belt. I assume they stretch a bit when new. This should have been easy to find, right?


EDIT...I relized that I probably was not holding the heater OFF / temp UP buttons long enough to get into the diags...now I have and got 00 32--63

32 EGR open command did not change fuel mixture during off idle operation
63 Right O2 sensor problem

Any typical cause of these? Also, does anyone know which way the mixture is stuck at. Car starts Okay and the only fault seems to be that it falters as I slow to a standstill, hardly a feeling of being too rich...but what do I know.



Any help will be greatly appreciated. Rob.

JoCan
02-12-07, 05:01 AM
This thread may help
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/rwd-19xx-1985-deville-fleetwood-1985/98302-serpentine-belt-pulley-replacement.html

Rob Benham
02-12-07, 03:54 PM
Thanks for the reply, but I had seen that one.. A second read through however did jog my memory about the wear indicator marks...mine is about half way.

I've removed the belt and found that the tensioner is simply sprung. Most of my cars required that it should be locked once the spring had done its work hence my puzzelment. I've started another thread about the O2 unit. Rob

BCs71
02-13-07, 02:18 PM
Rob,

I've never had to replace my tensioner but AFAIK it is straightforward. Unbolt the old one (right-hand threads?) and put new one in its place. The belt will self-tighten when you put it in and route it properly.
If the belt stretches then the tensioner should automatically adjust. EDIT--- just read your post about realizing the tensioner is sprung. You git it, then. :)

Rob Benham
02-13-07, 02:35 PM
Thanks for the reply.

Well, I'm halfway there with the belt, I cleaned it (fairly new) and ran a wire brush in the pulley groves, but it is evident that there is some oil coming from the compressor. This was replaced in 02 and I have recently flushed and vac'd out the system...and the leak is slow so I'm living with it for now, but the oil is obviously going to make me get on with the job.

I have a new Napa belt that I carry on long trips and will fit that when I finally get rid of the oil.

The codes I mention in my next post are the ones that I would like to get rid of. What I don't know is if one thing causes the other.... ie the O2 reading causing the EGR valve problems. I have found a place that sells them for under $50 so worth doing. Pity the valve is on the back of the engine!

I guess the question is, if I change the O2 sensor, is it possible that the EGR will spring back into life ?

I see that it has a separate solenoid valve which I will check.

Huh! Now I come to think of it, the parking brake is very slow to come off...so to speak...so I wonder if the vacuum is poor. Is there a general vacuum line, or are they kept separate. ie would poor vac be common to all devices?

Oooops, I'm rambling again, so will stop here. Rob