: Blew up my engine...



2004 CTS-V
01-18-07, 01:07 PM
The car is a 2004 CTS-V with about 40K miles. I do beat on it sometimes, but not at all on this particular day. I did however just return from a driving trip from STL to Key West.

Here's the story...

About a week ago I was slowly cruising through a shopping center here in St. Louis, MO when my I discovered my engine had died (no power steering was my only clue). Luckily I was able to push in the clutch and roll into a parking spot. I tried to restart the motor, and the starter would crank and crank, but the car would not restart. Eventually I got a tow to the dealer, who determined that the connecting rod in the #4 cylinder had punched completely through the piston. A brand new engine is being installed in the car right now along with a new intake, throttle body, etc.

Anyone with a similar experience?

Any suggestions on breaking in the new engine?

Thanks!

RunningOnEMT
01-18-07, 01:10 PM
break it in how you would normally drive it...is what i've heard

that and break it in with dino juice (conventional oil) but that may just be a old wives tale.

urbanski
01-18-07, 01:23 PM
sorry to hear, very unusual story.
good luck.
breaking in? beat the hell out of it.

svassh
01-18-07, 01:24 PM
Consider yourself lucky, could have happened at 50,001 miles. Now you get a new motor FREE!

lawfive
01-18-07, 01:28 PM
Standard rules of thumb: for at least the first hours/miles try to avoid loading it (hard acceleration including wide open throttle; lugging; towing). Also avoid running it at the same speed (e.g. same engine revs) for long periods of time; this includes not letting it idle.

Other than doing those things for a short period of time, modern engines do not need much in the way of break-in.

vseries
01-18-07, 01:30 PM
Consider yourself lucky, could have happened at 50,001 miles. Now you get a new motor FREE!


He didnt mention it was going to be warrantied :eek:

The Tony Show
01-18-07, 01:43 PM
There was another member (I think his name was Sandy'sV or something- had a picture of Kurt Russel from Captain Ron as his Avatar) had a simliar story, but it's still unusual.

CIWS
01-18-07, 01:56 PM
Sounds like you're being taken care of :thumbsup: But I would definately call your particular situation as unusual. It is good it happened before the warranty ran out. I would hate to be driving any relatively new performance car and have to pay to replace the engine.

rand49er
01-18-07, 02:28 PM
Standard rules of thumb: for at least the first hours/miles try to avoid loading it (hard acceleration including wide open throttle; lugging; towing). Also avoid running it at the same speed (e.g. same engine revs) for long periods of time; this includes not letting it idle.

Other than doing those things for a short period of time, modern engines do not need much in the way of break-in.:yeah:

I agree with lawfive wholeheartedly. :yup:

heavymetals
01-18-07, 03:12 PM
There was another member (I think his name was Sandy'sV or something- had a picture of Kurt Russel from Captain Ron as his Avatar) had a simliar story, but it's still unusual.

Similar story, but he had the rev limiter moved and blew it up.
Still got a warranty repair out of it though (very very lucky IMHO).

You can over-rev also by downshifting into a gear that spins the motor faster then the rev limiter (which only works on acceleration) setting.

V-Max
01-18-07, 04:05 PM
Similar story, but he had the rev limiter moved and blew it up.
Still got a warranty repair out of it though (very very lucky IMHO).

You can over-rev also by downshifting into a gear that spins the motor faster then the rev limiter (which only works on acceleration) setting.

...and don't think you can bounce off the rev limiter hopeing for a new engine. The PCM will set a DTC code. :)

Norm

BadCad
01-18-07, 04:10 PM
Are they giving you an LS6 or an LS2?

ctsvflorida
01-18-07, 05:24 PM
I thought I heard that the LS2 won't work in the LS6 cars. Not sure on this but vaguely remember some other story about this.

The Tony Show
01-18-07, 05:56 PM
There's no way they'll put an LS2 in it. GM has plenty of crate LS6's, as I can attest to.

Feffman
01-18-07, 07:01 PM
Hey see if they'll stuff in an LS7 :worship: engine and pay the difference for the cost of the LS6.

Feff

BadCad
01-18-07, 07:06 PM
There's no way they'll put an LS2 in it. GM has plenty of crate LS6's, as I can attest to.
You mean an LS6 is less desirable the an LS2 so they'll get rid of old, not as good stock first? :thumbdown:
I got to sit down and process this....

LS1Mike
01-18-07, 07:15 PM
The LS2 will fit, but you have to get the trons sorted out. I think the reluctor rings on the crank for the position sensor are different. Like 24 tooth Vs 54 tooth.
There are other differences that escape me right now.
Guys have done it in F-bodies, Not worth it IMO because you can get a very nice set of heads/Cam and supporting mods and make more power for less money with an LS6/LS1 then swapping in a run of the mill LS2.

LS1Mike
01-18-07, 07:15 PM
You mean an LS6 is less desirable the an LS2 so they'll get rid of old, not as good stock first? :thumbdown:
I got to sit down and process this....

He has an 04...LS6.

ctsvflorida
01-18-07, 07:37 PM
Hey see if they'll stuff in an LS7 :worship: engine and pay the difference for the cost of the LS6.

Feff

Interesting idea! Maybe you can be the prototype guy and only pay a little extra! Too bad the new one is coming which probably wipes that idea out! Worth inquiring at least to see how much more and if they will warranty it! I'd love to know what they say!

wildwhl
01-18-07, 08:02 PM
Break it in fast, run it hard, so it runs fast and hard when ready.

WW

Dennisscars
01-18-07, 09:36 PM
Avoid having Luna drive your car in the parking lot... :hide:

2004 CTS-V
01-18-07, 11:44 PM
Yep its all covered under warranty including the tow and all 9 days of a rental 2007 Yukon Denali. This dealership is taking good care of me. They put in a brand new LS6 and everything that bolts to it.

I purchased it used with about 20K miles on it and it was "Cadillac Certified" so it has a 100K mile bumper-to-bumper warranty. Anyone with Maggies, throttle bodies, or other engine upgrades run into any trouble getting Cadillac to honor the warranty?

I had them replace the rear left upper quarter trim panel for the second time -- it was hanging loose. They made it sound like it is a common problem. I'm going to wait until 99K miles to have them replace the nav/stereo buttons that are flaking off, since I'm sure the new ones will have the same problem.

Also for kicks, I asked them about the "clunk" in the differential when I let out the clutch and of course they replied that "they would give me a copy of the GM bulletin stating that there was nothing they could do about it." Anyone tried any of the aftermarket fixes for this problem? Or any of the other chassis/suspension parts available to reduce wheel hop, etc. ?

I'm getting the car back tomorrow and I'll post how it turned out...

tedcmiller
01-19-07, 09:28 AM
See my post
CTS-V engine self-destructed on 6/22/06.

ctsvflorida
01-19-07, 09:35 AM
I believe Tony Orlando changed his clutch and flywheel and claimed it was gone after that! Not 100% sure but he will chime in here.

Slapshot
01-19-07, 11:46 AM
Read an interesting article in Motor Trend regarding Break-In of new engines...

One theory is to run it hard and don't baby it at all. That's the way to get the bore marks out and really seat everything for big power...

I don't know myself, I'd probably do what the manual suggests, just to be on the safe side and to keep the warranty...

Here's the link:

http://www.motortrend.com/features/editorial/112_0603_technologue_race_performance

mostoyzwinz
01-19-07, 03:52 PM
Read an interesting article in Motor Trend regarding Break-In of new engines...

One theory is to run it hard and don't baby it at all. That's the way to get the bore marks out and really seat everything for big power...

I don't know myself, I'd probably do what the manual suggests, just to be on the safe side and to keep the warranty...

Here's the link:

http://www.motortrend.com/features/editorial/112_0603_technologue_race_performance

Lycoming says aircraft piston engine break-in procedure is straight mineral oil and minimum 75% power for first 50 hours whereas Harley Davidson told me to cruise at a constant very low power setting and GM (and every other car dealer I've bought from) told me nothing :hmm:

heavymetals
01-19-07, 05:24 PM
Lycoming says aircraft piston engine break-in procedure is straight mineral oil and minimum 75% power for first 50 hours whereas Harley Davidson told me to cruise at a constant very low power setting and GM (and every other car dealer I've bought from) told me nothing :hmm:


Air cooled motors are very different in break in procedures.

2004 CTS-V
01-19-07, 10:01 PM
Well I got the 'Lac back today and it is all fixed. It turns out that the valve spring broke and fell into the cylinder which cracked the piston and ultimately cracked the block in two places.

Car seems to be running fine, but the brakes are very squishy. The guy at the dealership said that they tried to bleed them for three hours but could not get all the air out. He suggested I drive for the weekend to see if the 'air works itself out'. I don't think it will but, I wanted the opportunity to see if anything else seems out of place before I take it back in next week.

Any clues why they would have had to drain the brake fluid ? My only idea is that the master cylinder had to come off to make room for the engine to come out.

2004 CTS-V
01-19-07, 10:16 PM
I should also mentioned that they found and replaced a broken motor mount.

Dennisscars
01-19-07, 10:29 PM
:anibs: I call BS on dealer,.. air may consolidate and work to calipers but there is no "out" if brakes are squishy bring back, do not pass Go, do not collect $200.

Rear ending a Volvo is bad news..

Maybe he's trying to sell you "cross drilled brake lines"?
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1

lawfive
01-20-07, 01:01 AM
Hahahaha!! Dennis :thumbsup: Good thing the service advisor isn't a doctor. "Let's give it some time and see if that air embolism works itself out."

Might brake line leeches be the next dealer recommendation?

ctsvflorida
01-20-07, 09:42 AM
:anibs: I call BS on dealer,.. air may consolidate and work to calipers but there is no "out" if brakes are squishy bring back, do not pass Go, do not collect $200.

Rear ending a Volvo is bad news..

Maybe he's trying to sell you "cross drilled brake lines"?
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1

Cross drilled brake 'lines'? Must be 'really' hard to get the air out of them!

I agree as that is the dumbest thing I have heard a dealer say! Somehow the master went bad or they messed up somewhere!

One more thing, did you realize at all about the motor mount while driving? Now, that you know it was bad, do you remember anything that might have come to you now?

2004 CTS-V
01-20-07, 03:03 PM
I do not remember any problems related to the motor mount (shaking, etc.) before the engine blew. I have a sneaking suspicion that they may have broken it themselves in the course of removing the engine. The service manager never mentioned it, I just noticed it printed on the invoice.

They did however find a 'bad bushing' in the rear in response to my 'clunk in the rear' complaint. I have to take it in next week to get that fixed, so I'll have them fix the brakes then.

tedcmiller
01-20-07, 09:30 PM
As I pointed out in my post concerning my engine failure, to replace the engine,most of the drive train including the engine, front suspension, and transmission is dropped out the bottom of the vehicle. This would require that the front brake lines be disconnected from the master cylinder. For most newer vehicles, removing the engine through the hood opening is a thing of the past.