ok well i have the money (i think) and now im plannin on putting Nitrous in her...
heres the questions...
how the hell do i do that???? lol
ive never put nitrous on anything and to my knowledge there isnt a kit for Northstars....
i plan on running a mere 25-50 shot to keep everything safe...
also about how much is it gonna run me cost wise?
i know what nitrous is
i know how it works
im asking how to install it on a Northstar aka built a kit to make it work on a N*, search the web yourself as have i, there it no kit for the northstar like there is for the ls1 or the lt1 etc etc etc....
Here's your big chance to get out front and lead the pack. Street legalities? I'd start by talking somebody into letting me experiment on their car. Verrry interesting.
You're going to end up spending about $500-800 on your kit. There are some good ones from ZEX that have some nice features to have to keep your engine in one piece. Any kit you buy will probably be "universal" and will come with instructions.
I would do some more research on things you might need, like throttle switches, rpm switches, nozzles, dry vs wet vs dp... etc and see what kits come with what.
Here's your big chance to get out front and lead the pack. Street legalities? I'd start by talking somebody into letting me experiment on their car. Verrry interesting.
:crybaby: NITROUS STORY: High school near here....kid with cute girl friend and a Toyota econobox. Wants to do burnouts. Buys NOS all-in-one kit, can't wait to impress the fart-can muffler crowd at 2:45 PM. Runs plastic tube from air intake plenum to right front seat, girl friend holding connected NOS bottle between her legs. "OK, honey, when I hit it, you open the valve." Most impressive. The oil and coolant stains are permanent parts of the macadam on Old Love Point Road, and there's still a mess of plastic and metal engine/tranny parts in the drainage ditch. Nobody hurt other than ego-wise. (Car is TOAST) Do it carefully and correctly. One mistake, and you're gonna be a lot poorer........
lol niceeee
nah im gonna have it done buy a shop
but right now im in the research phase ya kno? i dont wanna be taken for a ride
and i have been in contact with Wy and as of now we are still emailing back and forth, his help along with VinnyT and others has been greatly appreciated, with my one of a kind prototype chip i was able to get 14.4s, im hoping with a nice 50-75 shot, ill be up at about high 13s 14 flats..
A good rule of thumb to go by is to start way rich on fuel to the extent that it throws a lot of black smoke at WOT and then lean out the fuel slowly until you just have a haze. Leaning it more won't give much more power but it can grenade your motor.
The nitrous nozzle has two seperate jets, one nitrous & one fuel. The rule of thumb is 4 numbers richer on the fuel jet. IE: #20 nitrous, #24 gasoline. This is on a wet system, on a dry, it's done by increasing fuel pressure as the nozzle only injects nitrous. You'd be better off with a wet system.
Well several companies add on the fuel feed by making the system up the preasure in one way or another the system on the car is simply a GM in most features so if it is a returnless system look for a kit that fits similar type GM car. But if it has a typical vaccum reference system the system depends on raising the line preasure at the injectors. A little addon that will help in your tuning is a wideband o2 so you can monitor the A/F Ratio closer,ALSO dont forget that if you intend to run this at the track regularly you want to have a step or two colder plug if possible.
I know several racers who absolutely love AC plugs as thier ground electrode will start melting before anything else will giving you a good judge of its getting too lean. I would pick up one of the books on using/designing the NOS system.
A friend is getting a Texas Nitrous Technologies setup soon and its going on his 73 Camaro with an LS-X engine.
good luck
Lee Abel
AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE
if you run a universal wet ket it is easy you get fuel from the shrader valve on the fuel rail use a wot switch that will come in the kit if you want a window switch you can turn it on and off at any rpm you want it is easy to get a nitrous kit to work with the n* i have mine all hooked up and am waiting on the dyno to get back up and running to dial everything in. start of safe just run the jets that are given in the kit you get they run very rich to start with and then take it to someone with a dyno to tune it in gap your spark plugs down to about 32 to keep fire and put the spray nozle after the maf senser and about 6 to 8 inches away from the tb i have put alot of n2o kits on many cars and trucks and never had any problems with any of them just take your time buy a good kit and you will be happy i have seen alot of diff. kits so as far as picking a kit i still go with nos oh yah for what its worth if you do it right and tune it in you can go as far as your drive train can handle my last car was a 99 saburban with the 350 i got the power up past 600 ftlb of torque on a all stack motor and used it alot never had a proplem other than i blew the rear end
g eldo1 love you too bro...
again im not gonna do it myself ill have it done by a performance shop but i want my reasearch done first
and alot of people have nosed their cars very well
Shadowlvr400, wy, dave etc etc etc....
i plan on using it JUST for track, and my car has already been timeserted by the dealer...
like I said, $500-800... more for the install... don't really need to ask anything here, because if the shop is competant, everything should be golden.
Don't be too trusting of a shop, do your research there too, ask people their opinion. A local shop here managed to be the first in the country to toast an LS7 with an improperly installed nitrous system.
I just ran a wet system in the ETC. I mean, I had to since 95 has no MAF (still speed density.)
However I don't see a reason not to run a small-medium dry shot. That intake is designed to flow air, and it's thermoplastic (even though it has a pressure release valve,) so I'd probably be more comfortable with a dry shot. The dry system on my Mark has given me no problems. Colder plugs are indeed manditory, I don't remember what I went with on the ETC but the Mark has autolite AR34s. Pulsing the solenoids (IE racetested kit) really is a good idea, I don't see a real need for it if your goals aren't too high..
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