: Corvette Cam



bigbluebrougham
01-03-07, 03:51 PM
Any thoughts on this cam in place of the factory "Quiet Cam" in my 95 FWB? I think I would lose low-end torque wouldn't I? Would this be an upgrade or not? The cam is from a 94 corvette. I was wondering if this would even fit. The cam from 94-96 FWB are the same part number but the cam from a 94 corvette is different from the 95 corvette cam. Anyone help me with the differences/better power?

BCs71
01-04-07, 05:40 PM
The vette cam would fit right in there. Direct swap.

But in such a heavy car as a Fleetwood you need some low end grunt. The peak torque of the stock D-body cam is at 2400rpms and is essential to moving a big boat off the line.

The vette stock cam has a much higher peak torque RPM value and would be a poor (at best) choice for your Fleetwood, especially considering the time and labor it takes to do a cam swap on the LT1.

There are TONS of choices for aftermarket cams that are tried and true for the B and D cars that came with iron head LT1s. These cars all tip the scales over 4000 pounds and require torque. Check out the engine section at www.impalassforum.com and read up -- there is a month's worth of reading alone on cam swaps.

Instead of going internal of your motor I would suggest adding bolt-on mods first. I did this process in reverse and I'm still waiting to unlock the power I'm supposed to have. Without the properly matching components (headers, good flowing exhaust, cold air intake, PCM reprogramming, high stall torque converter, rear end gears) you will not be optimizing your cam's potential.
I did the cam first and had only a marginal gain. Once I started adding the other bolt-ons I began incrimenting in power.

The benefit of doing the bolt-ons first is that you get to enjoy their full potential immediately and have not dug into the motor yet (chance knicking a bearing or introducing dirt). If you are still not fast enough after all the supporting bolt-ons then you can always add the cam later, which will be a huge boost in power and be maximized since all the supporting mods are there!

Just my two cents.

PS.... F-body LT1 cam is also a poor choice for a B/D body.

bigbluebrougham
01-05-07, 04:56 PM
Well put. I think that is what I am going to do since you stated that the bolt on mods are simple and you don't have to take the engine apart and, all you have to do in essence is, BOLT THEM ON. Good idea. I was doing a a little delving into my FSM and got some lift numbers on the cam and with TRUE 1.6 rockers, i should be able to grab 5 ponies or so with that bolt on alone. More of course with headers, PCM tune, etc., etc. THere, m road is clearly defined and ready to start the add on process. Let's go!

BBB

P.S...What did you do for a tranny rebuild or where did you buy it? I am planning on after the bolt-ons, the 383 I can hopefully put in a few years donw the road, I might need a tranny...

BCs71
01-08-07, 02:05 PM
If you go with rockers then BE SURE to ditch the stock valve springs. They are marginal (at best) for stock applications with a granny driving. Just replacing springs are a nice improvement, along with helping you to rev a little higher. The rockers are just the icing on the cake for revving and I would recommend getting the PCM reprogrammed to raise the rev limiter a bit (like 5800rpms or so).

My tranny is still stock, knock on wood. I've put some punishment through it but for the most part go out of my way not to break it. I have a new torque converter to go in this winter (that's my plan anyway) with a 2400 stall rpm and that may be the nail in the coffin since it will likely produce more heat. A deeper tranny pan has crossed my mind to combat this...

Carolina Peformance and the other big trustworthy names from the impalassforum.com would be tops on my list for a performance rebuild, along with a nice quality torque converter.