: CV axle Halfshaft replacement



Domino1968
12-26-06, 11:23 PM
Hello all, I just finished replacing the driver's side halfshaft on my 2000 DTS and I thought this could help others with front wheel drive.
First off, the most important things to have are the correct tools. Having the service manual is invaluable! Along with the regular sockets and wrenches, some specialty tools are needed:

Ball joint separator. Donít use the pickle fork kind because you could damage your boot on the joint. I used this type. You can usally find these at specialty tool vendors or Ebay. Cadillac calls for tool J43828, but this type tool worked fine.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/CVaxlereplace034.jpg

Drive axle tool. Cadillac part number is J33008, I used the part below. Napa has the part that looks like an oversize crows foot for $40 but you still have to buy a special size slide hammer (which at the time NAPA did not have), so I bought this part which comes with a slide hammer from eBay for the same price.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/CVaxlereplace026.jpg

Some other items I did not get a shot of were a BFH, a front axle hub remover (can borrow from Autozone), prybar, impact wrench (not necessary) and the correct size spindle nut socket.

First start off by jacking the vehicle up and placing on jackstands and also removing the wheels. As you can see in the background my boot gave up the ghost and blew the green grease everywhere!
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/CVaxlereplace008.jpg
Here is another shot of the grease explosion.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/CVaxlereplace010.jpg
Next remove the stabilizer shaft link.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/CVaxlereplace011.jpg

Also do not forget to remove the ride height sensor link as shown. The service manual does not mention this, but this is important!
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/CVaxlereplace021.jpg
Since I was working on the drivers side, I turned the wheels to the left for better access and ease of removing axle later on. Remove the lower balljoint cotter pin and unscrew the castle nut.
Working from the front, use the ball joint separator as shown.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/CVaxlereplace015.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/CVaxlereplace014.jpg
*Special note-- I had to grind a groove in my tool because the space between the top of the thread and the axle shaft was too small for the tool to fit. This gave me the necessary clearance to fit the tool.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/CVaxlereplace035.jpg
After the ball joint is free, you can use a prybar on the lower control arm, NOT THE JOINT, to pry the joint out of the the knuckle.

Insert a drift or screwdriver in the caliper to keep the rotor from turning. I used an old screwdriver I had laying around.(Even tools you plan on throwing away come in handy!
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/CVaxlereplace018.jpgNow it is time to break out the breaker bar and hub nut socket and uncrank the hub nut. If your threads are kinda rusty, use little penetrating oil to help you out. (I cheated a little, I had an impact wrench) After the nut is removed, you can use a front axle puller to remove the axle from the hub. I did not need one, I used a good whack from my BFH and it broke free.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/CVaxlereplace024.jpg
Once it is free, move the hub and knucle towards the rear to give you room to remove the axle...you are going to need it.

I don't have pictures to show how the the axle remover works, but I can say it is tricky tryng to get the "crows foot" part of the puller in place between the inboard housing and transaxle housing. This was the most time consuming of the whole job. One of the tricks I used was to modify the tool by cutting the tips of the tool just so that the opening at the mouth would be bigger. Before...
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/CVaxlereplace025.jpg
And after.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/CVaxlereplace027.jpg
What I did was to approach from under the engine cradle to wedge just the "crowsfoot" part of the tool in between the tranny and the axleshaft housing. It is a very tight fit and also be careful of the lines that are running in the same area. The tool itself is kinda wedged shaped so I used that to my advantage. I just gave it a few taps with the BFH and the shaft popped out! I did not even have to connect or use the slide hammer. After that, remove the axle shaft and this is what you have. Hopefully you don't have grease everywhere like I did.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/CVaxlereplace028.jpg
Now it is out with the old and in with the new
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p192/Domino1968/CVaxlereplace030.jpg

When installing the new shaft, make sure you do not pull the shafts out or overextend them. All you need to do is push the shaft back in the transaxle and you should hear/feel a click to let you know that it is in. At this point you can install everything in reverse order double checking all your fastners for correct torquings. Take her for a test drive and when you are satisfied that everything is alright, pat yourself on the back for a job well done and the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

dp102288
12-27-06, 12:11 PM
Great writeup! Lots of pics always helps too! Sounds like a big job, but glad you did it. :thumbsup:

caddydaddy
12-27-06, 04:26 PM
Very similar to the axle shaft replacement I did on my '94 Deville. How many miles are on your DTS that the boot explodes?

Domino1968
12-27-06, 09:51 PM
The boot went at approximately ~73k. It may have went even before that, my wife drives the car daily and she didn't notice much difference in the ride but she did comment that she thought the tires might need to be balanced cause she thought she felt something different. I only noticed it because after she backed out of the garage one day, I saw the green grease on the floor where the car was parked. The car didn't start clicking yet but you could feel a slight clunk when giving it gas while coasting.

Alleycat
05-07-07, 10:11 AM
Halfshafts are a cinch to install. That is, once you have removed the old ones. My 132,000 mile 2000 Deville had grease all over it llike yours, only on both sides. I heard no noise from the joints and happened to discover the problem while checking my brakes for wear.
IMHO, This is not a job for the average non professional mechanic. I'm 66 years old, and before retiring, worked on everything from farm equipment to aircraft. This is not your typical, Saturday afternoon, driveway project.
I would be interested in a better shot of the balljoint separator you modified. I borrowed the tools from Advance Auto Parts, and their separator wouldn't come close to getting between the stud and the axle. I was lucky and didn't need the hub puller, a surprise because I had replaced bearing (hub assemblies on other FWD GM cars and never had one come apart without encouragement. Your pictures were a great help in getting the job done. Many thanks. I don't think I would have attempted it without your graphics. That Crow foot tool you got on eBay would have made the job much simpler. The passenger side is a piece of cake. The axle popped out with the help of a prybar. 1 hour from start to finish. The driver's side is another story (nightmare). Very little working room at the inboard end. It took a couple of hours of trying, prying and swearing, as well as a pinched, bleeding hand to get the axle out. That little retaining spring inside the tansaxle hub, just wouldn't let go. I finally got a square shanked chisel between the trans housing and the CV can, and put a cable around the chisel and pulled the cable with slide hammer. After several attempts where the chisel fell out of place, it finally popped free. If anyone still wants to try this, my advice is get help. I did it alone, and just having someone to turn the steering wheel for me would have been a big help. Also a gofur to hand you tools is always nice touch. Especially when you're an old fart and getting up and down is not easy anymore.

JC316
05-09-07, 02:22 AM
When I removed the CV joint from my old 95 SLS, I didn't need a puller, I just grabbed it near the tranny and yanked.

99Classillac
05-09-07, 08:21 PM
Great write up. I need to replace the passenger side halfshaft on my 99 Deville. It's slingin grease all over the back of my wheel and all over the brake caliper. Looks nasty. No noise yet so I'm gonna wait till it goes out.

EDBSO
05-17-07, 07:56 PM
my boot gave up the ghost and blew the green grease everywhere!

What failed was the dumb press on steel clamp, a 23 cent piece. Fantastic write up. I have to do both sides of my 2001 Eldorado due to this shitty design.

EDBSO
05-17-07, 08:02 PM
Why do my posts have to be reviewed and censored before being posted??



http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/55401-do-not-post-questions-here-they.html
urbanski

Domino1968
06-08-07, 08:43 AM
Halfshafts are a cinch to install. That is, once you have removed the old ones. My 132,000 mile 2000 Deville had grease all over it llike yours, only on both sides. I heard no noise from the joints and happened to discover the problem while checking my brakes for wear.
IMHO, This is not a job for the average non professional mechanic. I'm 66 years old, and before retiring, worked on everything from farm equipment to aircraft. This is not your typical, Saturday afternoon, driveway project.
I would be interested in a better shot of the balljoint separator you modified. I borrowed the tools from Advance Auto Parts, and their separator wouldn't come close to getting between the stud and the axle. I was lucky and didn't need the hub puller, a surprise because I had replaced bearing (hub assemblies on other FWD GM cars and never had one come apart without encouragement. Your pictures were a great help in getting the job done. Many thanks. I don't think I would have attempted it without your graphics. That Crow foot tool you got on eBay would have made the job much simpler. The passenger side is a piece of cake. The axle popped out with the help of a prybar. 1 hour from start to finish. The driver's side is another story (nightmare). Very little working room at the inboard end. It took a couple of hours of trying, prying and swearing, as well as a pinched, bleeding hand to get the axle out. That little retaining spring inside the tansaxle hub, just wouldn't let go. I finally got a square shanked chisel between the trans housing and the CV can, and put a cable around the chisel and pulled the cable with slide hammer. After several attempts where the chisel fell out of place, it finally popped free. If anyone still wants to try this, my advice is get help. I did it alone, and just having someone to turn the steering wheel for me would have been a big help. Also a gofur to hand you tools is always nice touch. Especially when you're an old fart and getting up and down is not easy anymore.

Alleycat, I will see if I can post up pics on my modified balljoint separator. I have to admit that is was a pain just trying to get the tool in there to work. Alot of my time was just on modifying tools to make them work. Also, the drivers side is the biggest pain to do due to the lack of working space. After doing the drivers side, the passenger side is a breeze!

EDBSO, I agree that the clamp design is pretty cheesy as well. In retrospect, I believe that what happened is due to a chain of events that I would ultimately blame on my front motor mount. My theory is when it gives up the ghost, it cause the engine to rock more that usually, making the halfshafts extend/bend a little more out of the ordinary. That plus the cheesy clamps that can't take the added strain makes the boots blow. Just my 2 cents. Glad the writeup helped, I will probably post one on motor mount replacement if I can find all the pics I took while doing it.

99Classillac
07-17-07, 08:18 PM
Great write up! I just did it this weekend. Took me 3 hours because I smoke a lot and it was really hot outside and I did it in the driveway. I had to keep hiding out in the house to cool off. I used a crowbar to get the halfshaft off the trans. Didn't break anything either! On the re-install, you should do a write up on how to get the ball joint back into the knuckle. That was my only pain in the ass moment. The suspension spring pushed the knuckle all the way down and I couldn't get the ball joint or the control arm low enough to get it back in. I had to use a jack and carefully lower the car onto the brake caliper to push the knuckle up enough to fit the ball joint in there. Took me about 45 minutes to do because the whole thing kept shifting around and I couldn't just move the knuckle around with the weight of the car on the thing. Other than that little part, it was easy. The write up really helped me out. I had printed this off and had it out there with me.

Justin J
08-26-07, 06:18 PM
Sorry, way too much sweat labor for me. Driver side CV joint on my 2000 deville with 50,000 miles just took a dump yesterday. Seriously, it dumped parts (joints?) all over the road. No warning, no vibration, no noise, notta. I pulled away from a stop sign, tranny shifted and made a noise like I ran over a wheel chair! Stopped the car, looked in the mirror and saw "pieces and parts" scattered on the road. Had the Caddy towed to the shop that replaced the passenger side axle last year for a cost of $200.00.

nphoenix
02-01-09, 10:40 AM
Thanks for the Pics. The biggest pain for me was the ball joint. Harbor Freight has the seperator tool for $20 , but i wrestled with reasembly until i temporarily remounted the tire to get the leverage to re guide it in for reasembly. Als to remove the axel from the transaxel i tried tugging and then laid under the car positioned a 2x4 and with a tap outboard it released.

HamidTheProgrammer
10-21-11, 05:47 PM
Did you feel the wheel shaking especially when you hit the brake before you do this repair? I have a 2001 Deville DHS, the driver side wheel shakes noticeable when I do over 65 mph, and the shaking is more violent when I hit the brakes. I cut the rotor and put new tires few months ago, now I have this shaking wheel. Not sure what is the exact problem so far.

Domino1968
11-01-11, 01:22 AM
No, there wasn't any noticible shaking when I did this repair, the only thing at the time that I noticed was the grease leaking out. I think I fixed/caught it in time before other problems/symptoms arose.

ot1
12-22-11, 12:19 AM
It would be helpful if you could list the manufacturer of the ball joint separator tool that you used and the part number.

ot1
12-23-11, 12:29 AM
@domino thank you for your great help!

My application was for a 2002 Seville STS, driver side.

Some additional notes that others may find useful.

After removing the 3 bolts that secure the hub to the knuckle, I used a 5 ton 3 arm puller to press the splined shaft nearly all the way out of the hub, then used a slide hammer and flange to pull the hub from the knuckle, it was a very tight fit.

Disconnect the upper side of sensor control rod sing a 10mm open end wrench. It is not necessary to remove the link pin from the sway bar completely, just run the upper nut to the top of the link pin threads. I hung the caliper from the coil spring with a piece of electrical wire.

The ball joint tool in the pictures is an OTC 6297, it can also be found in a set OTC 6295 for $95 dollars from a major tool supplier on the web. Grainger also carries the tools in stock if you can't wait, as none of my local auto parts chains carried the tools in stock.
IT IS CRITICAL that the steering wheel be turn all the way to lock left otherwise the tool will not fit into place. I separated the tool halves and the lower part slipped under the ball joint boot with ease so it won't pinch the boot during removal, this made it easier than placing the assembled tool into position. If you remove the shaft from the hub first there is plenty of clearance for the upper half of the tool to fit over the ball joint stud properly so it doesn't need to be grooved or modified in any way. The tool works great once you know how to position it to the front of the ball joint, study the picture carefully.

CV joint puller tool OTC 7509 $55 comes with a slide hammer or it is available as only the foot OTC 7507. Unscrew the slide hammer rod before attempting to position the foot. Position the foot to the rear of the tulip then screw in the hammer rod. I was only able to seat the foot partially under the tulip but I appied a tap or two, and it gave me more clearance to seat the tool all the way behind the tulip.
Neither of the OTC tools required modification and both worked perfectly as is. I greased the new spline too before inserting into the transmission.


Happy Holidays to All !

ot1
12-28-11, 11:34 AM
I forgot to mention the sound the vehicle was making. A very low pitched grinding whirring sound, possible from the left side. And bringing the car up to 40 mph the sound was quite pronounced. I made aggressive turns at speed to see if the sound changed and it did not. Shifting the vehicle into neutral while at 40 mph, to let the RPM drop to idle, the sound maintained with the vehicle speed and not the engine RPM. As the speed decreased I could feel a vibration that felt like one flattened or warped ball bearing, until the vehicle came to rest. Maybe even a defective tire, they were rebalanced and rotated, driven for a week, The sound was getting more pronounced. Opened up the tranny since the fluid was rather burnt smelling and orangey brown. No signs of anything seriously wrong, very minute metal on the magnet. Did a full drain of the tranny and pumped out the torque converter and radiator, a full 100% fluid exchange. I suspect the previous fluid change done by the dealer was only half done, because I measured the quantity when I performed the work. Just draining the pan still leaves about 50% (a little over 7 quarts) of the fluid still held in the sump (which holds about a quart) and the radiator and the torque converter, this coinsides with the low mileage obtained 17k when the fluid looked burnt. After the tranny job, the sound remained. The sound could not be heard from outside the vehicle when placed on jack stands and the vehicle speed held at various speeds. After removing the hub, I felt no grinding in the bearings, but replaced it anyway. I also replaced the entire half-shaft at the same time, and the noise disappeared.

Mojo88
03-19-12, 02:57 PM
Terrifiic write-up Domino. Great work! Much better than trying to decipher the hieroglyphics at AllData (though AllData is nice).

Very helpful.

00 Deville
09-20-14, 05:23 PM
Nice tech tip write up... I replaced the half shaft on my 02 Deville this morning. I was able to borrow the 34 mm socket, torque wrench, slide hammer, and axle removal foot from Autozone under the loan a tool program. I ended up not disconnecting the ball joint and followed the method in the video below posted by a fellow forum member.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fV8nJ5Q-x0I