Hi guys this is my first post and it looks like there is tons of info on here but not much on amp installs.

I have the bose system and it sounds great but wanted to add three 10inch subs for more bass, I went to the car audio store and they didnt have a clue so I hope someone on here does!!! PLEASE HELP~~~~

I have seen a few on here that have the stock radio and subs in back SO any info will help thanks guys!!!

We put an Alpine amp under one of the second row Captain's chairs... To power the amp we found a hole in the firewall (to the engine compartment) and punched the power line through... to mount the amp we had to modify (cut out) the panel of carpeting at the bottom of the chair, basically cut a hole in the carpet to get it in there... This piece can be removed easily to modify with a dremel tool for a cutout... as far as the input for the amp we spliced speaker level inputs from the left and right back door speakers and used a crossover to filter non bass sound... the wires from the amp to the sub run under the side panels to the trunk to power my subs...

My problem is my head unit(stock navi) has some type of sound sensor??? and my stereo shop is telling me the amp cant be installed??? have you had any problem with the bass being to loud affecting the radio?

Here is how I wired my sub amp in my 2007.

Power Feed:
I removed the battery and battery tray and drilled a hole through the firewall into the passenger side (a few inches below the battery tray). I tied a 4 AWG wire into the Battery + side of the Mega fuse that powers the vehicle electronics (just above the battery and to the right). Only a couple inches away I mounted another fuse box similar to the one used in the vehicle. With a rubber grommet protecting the wire from the sharp sheet metal, I ran the 4 AWG power feed through the firewall and down underneath the trim of the passenger side. When you remove the passenger side rear trim panel, you will find an extra J clip that is perfectly positioned for connecting your ground cable (although, you may have to remove a little paint for a better connection). Important note: Please make sure to choose a fuse size for your power feed that will blow if your wiring is shorted to ground at the amp (consider your wire gauge size and length). Otherwise, if the resistance of the wire does not produce enough current to blow a large fuse, your wiring will get VERY hot and your vehicle may IGNITE. I am currently using an 80 amp fuse with the 4 AWG wire.

Audio input to Amp:
I chose not to tap into the D-pillar speakers because I suspect the factory amp filters those outputs. So I disconnected the factory sub and wired that output to a line converter then to amp. The factory sub connection is directly beneath your cup holders. I ran these wires down the drivers side of the vehicle because the large gauge power feed on the passenger side acts like a large antenna and could possibly introduce noise into any nearby speaker wires.

Factory sub wiring from Amp to sub connector
Left + Dark Blue w/ white stripe
Left - Light Green w/ black stripe
Right + Light Blue w/ black stripe
Right - Dark Green
(Note: wires on sub side of connector are different color!)

That’s how I did it.. I am sure others will do it differently.

Brad

so overall you didnt have any problems with the stock head unit not working? the stereo shop said something about since I had the bose stereo that this couldnt be done BUT I worked at the shop for a few yrs and I still wonder if they know what is really going on.

Is there anyway you could email me pics of your amp install? I have my subs in the car and ready to go BUT have had zero luck finding someone to install my amp! Thanks for your help...

Sorry, I was in a hurry and didn’t take the time to snap pics. I also would prefer to not take my trim apart again. :)

As for the "sound sensor", they are correct. There is a noise cancelling microphone on the panel near your right knee. From my knowledge of noise cancellation, it is really only going to work on constant hum or engine noise. I would guess that Bose would have calibrated the noise cancellation to only work for a certain frequency range anyway. (engine noise coming from area near your feet where the mic is)

Don’t wait, install your amp! Mine is working great.

Brad

Thanks guys for all your input!!! I am hoping to get this installed asap!!!

Is their a stock amp and sub in the 07 EXT? If so, where? Thanks!

The amp is below the center console. The sub is below the HVAC control.

Brad

Thanks!

Here is how I wired my sub amp in my 2007.

Power Feed:
I removed the battery and battery tray and drilled a hole through the firewall into the passenger side (a few inches below the battery tray). I tied a 4 AWG wire into the Battery + side of the Mega fuse that powers the vehicle electronics (just above the battery and to the right). Only a couple inches away I mounted another fuse box similar to the one used in the vehicle. With a rubber grommet protecting the wire from the sharp sheet metal, I ran the 4 AWG power feed through the firewall and down underneath the trim of the passenger side. When you remove the passenger side rear trim panel, you will find an extra J clip that is perfectly positioned for connecting your ground cable (although, you may have to remove a little paint for a better connection). Important note: Please make sure to choose a fuse size for your power feed that will blow if your wiring is shorted to ground at the amp (consider your wire gauge size and length). Otherwise, if the resistance of the wire does not produce enough current to blow a large fuse, your wiring will get VERY hot and your vehicle may IGNITE. I am currently using an 80 amp fuse with the 4 AWG wire.

Audio input to Amp:
I chose not to tap into the D-pillar speakers because I suspect the factory amp filters those outputs. So I disconnected the factory sub and wired that output to a line converter then to amp. The factory sub connection is directly beneath your cup holders. I ran these wires down the drivers side of the vehicle because the large gauge power feed on the passenger side acts like a large antenna and could possibly introduce noise into any nearby speaker wires.

Factory sub wiring from Amp to sub connector
Left + Dark Blue w/ white stripe
Left - Light Green w/ black stripe
Right + Light Blue w/ black stripe
Right - Dark Green
(Note: wires on sub side of connector are different color!)

That’s how I did it.. I am sure others will do it differently.

Brad


hey brad i had one question where did you tap into for the remote wire ?? thanks for the help.

hey brad i had one question where did you tap into for the remote wire ?? thanks for the help
This is what I want to know , how did you get the remote start wire for the amp ?
did you get an aftermarket trigger or is there a wire from the navi headunit ?

You can use accessory/ignition wire for your amp remote turn on

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y256/gm-geek/escalade%20video%20install/P1012287.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y256/gm-geek/escalade%20video%20install/P1012284.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y256/gm-geek/escalade%20video%20install/P1012270.jpg

But Gm_geek, isn't the remote trigger supposed to give a 12 volt signal to start the amp and then there is no more voltage in the remote wire trigger, so it is just to turn it on and then stop the voltage.
So if I wire the remote trigger to a constant 12 V ( when ignition is on ), will damage the amplifier , or am I wrong ?
and does the usual remote wire works the same as continouse 12V or just to get a start signal and then it is off ?
Like for example if I do not want to turn on my radio when I am driving my car, then the amplifier is ON, but for nothing, yes.

The remote trigger is a constant voltage. At least on my JL amps it is and I am sure its consistant accross brands.

But Gm_geek, isn't the remote trigger supposed to give a 12 volt signal to start the amp and then there is no more voltage in the remote wire trigger, so it is just to turn it on and then stop the voltage.
So if I wire the remote trigger to a constant 12 V ( when ignition is on ), will damage the amplifier , or am I wrong ?
and does the usual remote wire works the same as continouse 12V or just to get a start signal and then it is off ?
Like for example if I do not want to turn on my radio when I am driving my car, then the amplifier is ON, but for nothing, yes.

You missunderstood what I ment.
you don't connect constant 12Volt to remote trigger wire on your amp. pic. I posted to show You where you can grab accesory/ingnition wire to trigger amplifier.
but if you want your install be more professional. PAC sells module that will generate 12 V out of speakers output on your factory system. it's a very cool piece. I use it all the time

OK thanks Guys , got it now.
And Gm_geek I misunderstood what you explained , but I got it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=170078559305&rd=1,1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...8559305&rd=1,1
I knew about this harness and converter , but I called PAC and they confirmed that this harness " WILL NOT WORK " ON 2007 Escalade. only on 2007 GM SUVs, like Tahoe and Yukon.
you can look on their website and you will not find this harness for 2007 Escalade. So that add for this item is totally wrong.
I ordered the Soundgate LOCX to hook it to the wires of the sub and it is a 2 channel high quality converter.

That isnt the right harness they have a new 07 escalade harness that works it is in my truck now!!! I will post some pics of my sub box 3 10's firing down behind the seats!

253caddy what is the harness item # for the one you used, was it a T-type plug in harness or was it with loose wires that you have to tap in after the amp wires.
Because I called PAC and Soundgate and both of them indicated to tap after the amplifier wires , PAC with OEM-2 and Soundgate with LOCX, nothing else, no one of them has a plug in harness.
So if you have one that plugs in to the headunit before or after the amp... then you are the lucky one to have that working for you , so please provide details .
thanks

That isnt the right harness they have a new 07 escalade harness that works it is in my truck now!!! I will post some pics of my sub box 3 10's firing down behind the seats!

Does your harness connects as a plug in T-harness or is it with loose wires that you have to tap in the wires before or after the amp.
Because I called PAC and Soundgate and both of them told me that they do not have a plug in T-type harness, just only a converter with loose wires to tap in after the amplifier. PAC recomended the " OEM-2" and Soundgate recomended the " LOCX " converter, but the PAC is a 4 channel and the Sondgate's is a 2 cgannel. The soundgate is a better quality than the PAC, so I've heard, don't know for sure.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=170078559305&rd=1,1


Thats alot homies thats his next plan for the 07....

I would have to go by the stereo shop that put it in and find out but I know they had it in stock and it isnt the one that works for the 07 chevy...

It is green and taps into the bose amp wires after the amp output and sounds great!!! I will try and get by there tomorrow to get a model number

http://peripheralelectronics.com/home.asp is the company sorry guys!!! I thought it was pac audio give these guys a call I did the IPOD connection and amp install with them and it works great!

What does the HVAC control means?

HVAC = Heating Ventilation & Air Conditioning

What he is referring to is your A/C control head/unit -- below your radio :)