: Northstars in '95



pimpin88
12-16-06, 11:46 AM
I'm looking at a '95 STS, and I've heard a few times to stay away from the earlier northstars. Is this considered an "early northstar" and what should I look for on it? It only has 91k miles on it.

fpmesiIII
12-16-06, 05:29 PM
I'd personally look for a 96+ they have dex-cool put in from factory. this increase your chances of not having a headgasket issue. dex-cool (orange stuff) is suppose to be changed every 5 yrs/100k so more than likely the coolant should have been changed on any of the older vehicles you will probably be looking at. pre 96 i think the coolant is suppose to be changed every 3yrs/30k

just make sure the car doesnt overheat easily and change the coolant/put in pellets as soon as you get it home.

plus the new interior for 96 is a lot better than 95. if you look into the 98+ you are getting yourself into a nice car, but has a lot of electronic gizmos (more things that can go wrong)

in my opinion '96-'97 STS are the best if you want the "american" beefier body style (these are lighter than the 98+ therefore faster). but if you want the european look and some added weight and more rounded style exterior with more gizmos then look at '98+

Ranger
12-16-06, 05:57 PM
I'd personally look for a 96+ they have dex-cool put in from factory. this increase your chances of not having a headgasket issue. dex-cool (orange stuff) is suppose to be changed every 5 yrs/100k so more than likely the coolant should have been changed on any of the older vehicles you will probably be looking at. pre 96 i think the coolant is suppose to be changed every 3yrs/30k

just make sure the car doesnt overheat easily and change the coolant/put in pellets as soon as you get it home.


2 years

clarkz71
12-16-06, 06:45 PM
I'd personally look for a 96+ they have dex-cool put in from factory. this increase your chances of not having a headgasket issue.

plus the new interior for 96 is a lot better than 95.

If you do a search, you'll find more headgasket failures are on 96 & up northstars.

As far as interiors go, that's your opinion. I like the classic 93-95 interior. 96 & up is cookie cutter. Every car from civic's to Mercedes has the HVAC & radio in the console set-up. That's the only difference on the interior.

dp102288
12-16-06, 09:00 PM
Interior is up to the driver.

Any engine & year has problems. It makes no difference between a newer and older models of the older was mainttained well. Don't mean to sound non-helpful, because what I am saying is to have a through inspection of the car done. That's the only way to see how well it will do.

clarkz71
12-17-06, 06:57 AM
Interior is up to the driver.



That's why I said "that's your opinion" regarding his preference of the 96 up interior.

dp102288
12-17-06, 09:26 AM
^^ Sorry I missed that trying to read so fast.

Cadillacboy
12-17-06, 10:43 AM
I prefer interior of '96 to '95 but that doesn't mean '93-95s looks dull.However I really don't like the way shitfter knobs for '93 . '96 and '97 have better desing imho.

davesdeville
12-17-06, 07:42 PM
Fortunately shift knobs are easy to change.

MonzaRacer
12-21-06, 06:13 AM
Well if you look under to post titled dex-cool.
DO NOT THINK DEX-COOL IS A PROMISE OF GOOD HEAD GASKETS.
As a Tech I can also tell you that GM only put out 16 different supersesions of headgaskets but only 3 or 4 show as some are running changes.
And as for Dex-Cool being oh so great dont bet on it. Dex has a mix of 2 types of organic acids to control corrosion/erosion protection one is called sebacate and the other is 2-EHA.
Now for the short and crunchy version, 2-EHA is a plasticizer and can and will soften up plastic engine parts/gaskets it comes into contact with. This is much worse on some engine more than others.
Now if you want extended life antifreeze you can do a complete flush and switch over to G-05 and it uses a different chemistry and wont hurt anything. and if someone tells you the current technology seals in water pumps wont take the silicates in green antifreeze ,thats a lie as the carbide seals in todays water pumps are pretty much bullet proof unless damaged at time of install or there ia too much castingsand in the cooling system which has been found to be the big problem with damaged seals.
Now the reason you get rust mixing is because of system getting low then the coolant washing the corrosion away and it deposits its self in heat exchangers.
Oh and the silicates stay in suspension to curtail the eletrolytic process of mutiple metals and dual componnet coolant(if it isnt fresh it can become electrolyte,,, as it the cooling system becomes a battery) This is why we need to keep the cooling system in the PH neutral so it doesnt attack parts. If it goes acidic it simply eats on the sodt parts, it goes (too) alkaline it eats either the anode or cathode (I forget which way but it does) and I saw this happen in a big dodge van with 83 k on the odo it had a large hole ate into the water pump and let the coolant flow to not go through the engien and blowing a hose, I missed the hidden bypass hose that blew, and replaced the water pump butthen found it to have the bypass hose had blew because it over heating.
We had coolat test strips and while it was temp safe it literaly ate the ph test pad off the stick, and as such the aluminum of the water pump.
Oh and it may not hurt the aluminum in the engine it may go after the dead soft tin fire rings around coolant hole/combustion chamber or some other metalic part.
I have seen it too much so if you dont believe me , simply gife the coolant a look and a sniff it may be changed but if it smells funny then its not been changed (test strips for coolant can be bought from several companies)often enough or well enough.
And as for cleaning a system Zerex has a cleaner that you put in and drive the car for several hours then drain and flush the system (carefule as they also have one that is only supposed to be in for a few minutes give or take) the other one works great and you may even see some help for partially plugged heater cores and rads.
The big reason for ext life coolants was because of owners NOT servicing the old EG coolant and the silicates will fall out off suspension and create sludge.
hope this information from a working tech helps and if someone wants to tear into me because they think Im wrong email me at Xanadu4024@aol.com
Lee Abel
ASE Master Automotive Technician

95eldormk
12-26-06, 09:15 PM
I have a '95 Eldo that turned 156,000 miles on the way into work this morning.
I've had it since :duck: 2000 and have had NO mechanical issues with the motor what so ever. At 103,000 miles I changed plugs & wires, Delco all the way. Oil changes every 3k miles. I use a quart of oil every 1500 miles or so. I had to replace the left front wheel bearing/brake sensor at 106k. The right front lower ball joint twice since in the last 50k miles.
I take good care of it... BUT, I beat the crap out of it.. Redline shifts are the norm.. Most Mustangs and 80s & 90s Vettes don't stand a chance.. One of those new Subaru turbo hotrods gave her a run.. Barely eeked a win... I really don't think the 95 N* is a problem motor...
Just My Opinion...

clarkz71
12-27-06, 05:56 AM
:welcome: to the forum. I agree, 95's are very reliable, and with OBD I easy to test & diagnose.

dp102288
12-27-06, 03:31 PM
:welcome & :yeah:

Story of a Caddy, maintained well but driven hard. :D

billytheshoe
12-30-06, 01:27 PM
MONZA-you are correct sir! The coolant Desperatly needs to be changed every 2 yrs. This does'nt happen in the real world.

GreenMachine
12-31-06, 02:51 AM
:welcome: to the forum. I agree, 95's are very reliable, and with OBD I easy to test & diagnose.
if I recall 95's are also the most promising pre-RWD northstars as far as programability goes.

dp102288
12-31-06, 12:56 PM
^^ Damn and mine is "S" rated! :rant2: :p