View Full Version : Winter Storage Prep Qs

12-10-06, 12:23 PM
Dave's 88 mentioned storing his car for the winter, something I'm doing as well. But it's the first time I've stored a car for a long period of time.

Any suggestions on what to do before letting it sit and what kind of maintenance to perform while it's being stored?

More specifically...

1. Which terminal on the battery do you disconnect so the battery doesn't drain?

2. How often should you start her up and how long should you let her run? I can drive her around the underground garage a bit, but wouldn't want to take her out.

3. How much gas should you leave in her? Close to empty? Close to full? Should you add gas at any point?

4. Anything else you should do before storing?

5.. And although it's a long way away, what should you do when spring hits and all the salt has been washed away and it's time to take her out of storage?

Thanks very much in advance!!!

12-10-06, 02:23 PM

I must have my car tucked away during the winter and i looked up what i needed to do before the storage, and this is the advice i got.

First of all, it depends on the moisture in the storage and that depends on the klimat outside and the temperature inside and can be held on a unharmful level by either raise the temp in storage to atleast 59* F or by install a controlled demoisturizer (sp?), however often is't much to be done to the storage room.

Therefor is the steps to take, to minimize the effect of moisture.


change oil in the engine in the fall. And drive the car so the engine oil is atleast 140* F prior to the storing, thats to let any water in the oil to (steam off) (wd?).

Let the fuel tank be full or close to full.

Add extra air in the tires

Don't start the car during the storing. unless you have the opportunity to get the engine real warm (engine oil temp atleast 140* F) for some while.

If it is a big risk that you have water in your brake system, change the fluids in the fall. (there is a service intervall when to change brake fluid, if it is long overdue there is a reason to change, because brake fluid suck water from the air and blends itself with it). the water causes rust in the brake system in bad places during storing, and the water causing fading brakes when you need it the most.

Disconnect battery and charge it a cuople of times during the winter (extra important if the temperature gets below freezing)
One should always disconnect the negative terminal first.

Don't apply the parking brake/ emergency Brake, only use the "park" on the tranny.

Wash the car and let it dry real good.

try to make sure that no rodents of any kind want to use your car as their home.

this advices are most towards a older car with little or non electronics, the newer the car is, the more special things gets with electronic memorys and stuff.

For the spring and the fun to take the baby out again.
I have fitted a switch in my engine compartment that i can turn the ignation off with, but still crank the engine to let it build up the right oilpressure before the engine can ignate, and therefor get a tender start up in the spring.


12-10-06, 02:34 PM
You dont have to do much. Get a oil change done before you put it away and wash it. Then once you put it away disconnect the battery or take it right out. Dont start it at all just leave it alone until the spring. And make sure theres air in the tires. In the spring when you want to use it again just put the battery back in and drive it. And take the insurance off it too. I think its only like $20 for the winter if you do that. Call them and tell them you put it in storage and they should know what to do.

12-10-06, 02:40 PM
I'd put it up on jackstands to keep flatspots from forming on the tires.

12-10-06, 02:52 PM
That isnt a problem if its only in storage for the winter. JUst make sure theres enough air in the tires.

12-10-06, 07:54 PM
When I put my 1960, M-B, 220Sb, away for the winter, I did all the above with a few additions:
>Open the doors to the first "Notch" to keep the rubber gaskets fully expanded.
>Get a box of MOTHBALLS and put them in a coffee can with small holes punched in it. Place the can on the back floor.
-This keeps unwanted critters away. I also put a can of mothballs atop the motor to keep critters out.
The first nice spring day, put your battery back in, put away the mothball cans, take it off the jack stands, start her up, open all windows, and let the fresh air get rid of the stench of paradichlorobenzene as you drive around for a while.
(I never had mothball smell in the car after about 20 minutes if the car was aired out well.)
I highly recommend the mothballs if you have a spider problem like we seem to have every few years. Those damn things will build webs EVERYWHERE if given half a chance.

12-10-06, 08:45 PM
>Get a box of MOTHBALLS and put them in a coffee can with small holes punched in it. Place the can on the back floor.

I'm allergic to mothballs, specifically paradichlorobenzene. Luckily there are no rodent nor spider problems in the garage where I plan to keep it. It's a large community garage in a building.

I'm wondering if a car cover would be a good idea or not. I bought one, so I may as well use it.

12-20-06, 02:41 PM
I just read about using Fogging Oil before storage. Is this necessary if I'm just storing my Brougham for 4 months?

12-20-06, 05:52 PM

12-20-06, 05:56 PM

Cool! I'm glad I put the can aside when I got to the cash and just bought the stabil.

When would one use fogging oil?